I have an issue that when i select reverse it often grinds, which i am guessing it shouldn't do. Sometimes i find that the car is reluctant to let me select other gears, mainly first! and typically on a **** off steep hill!Looking through threads it seems it could be the clutch or the selector? anything else? The clutch doesn't seem to slip, i live on a slight hill so i assume i would find out as it would have issues pulling away in the morning. How woould i know which is at fault and what would be involved in fixing either issue?The car is at 129k and counting.

I had problems selecting first and reverse when the gear linkage needed adjusting. This is a simple process, but I can't remember it well enough to give a reliable description. It's covered in the Haynes manual, or someone else may be able to describe it.

It's worth a go IMHO, as it takes 10 minutes max and costs nothing.

I also find that they grind into reverse if you try and select the gear too quickly after depressing the clutch. I read somewhere that waiting a few seconds between depressing the clutch and then selecting the gear will prevent the grind. Obviously I don't know if you have a fault, but again it may be worth trying if you haven't already.

*EDIT - I was never overly impressed with the action of my gearbox when I bought the car. I found that changing the gear oil made a big difference.

thanks, had a look at the haynes guide and did as it said, seems better standing still. Will see how it is tomorrow.

But, not quite perfect, still a little noise getting reverse. Is there anything to ensure that the gear stick stays perfectly central. It seems that it moves a little when i am sorting the cables out.

look halfway down this page: Sigma 6 Install Manual

Gives the adjustment procedure. Really easy and I need to do mine, same prob.

The crappy plastic/rubber bushes on the cable wear/loosen.

HTH

BTW What tranny oil did you switch to mate? Or was it a case of replacing the OEM stuff?

Cheers

Bas

I think that as the bushings wear it gives a little slack in the gear stick. I shoved a nail as suggested but this still allows a little bit of movement. think it is just going to be a little bit of trial and error over the weekend to see if i can get it just right.

Just did mine - 10 mins work, but I cheated.

Here's Bas's quick and dirty (very dirty) adjustment procedure:

engine off/cold

1- disconnect + remove air intake tube - phillips screwdriver.

2- as you look down on the shifter above the trans you see two cables with springs on them

3- start with the left - using three fingers squeeze the collar back (it's spring-loaded) then twist to lock open. Make a mental note of where the plastic jaws end on the steel cable end.

4- move the jaws of the plastic collar towards the car rear1-2 mm shortening the cable. twist the collar and release to clamp back onto the steel cable.

5- try all the gears

6- repeat with small adjustments back and forth until all gears engage smoothly - 1-2 and R are the most fiddly...

7- spray grease on all moving parts for good measure

8- replace the PD160 air tube

I found that the left one only needed adjustment (and has done a couple of times in the past). The proper tranny adjustment lock is under the battery and is a PITA to reach without removing the battery tray as well. You don't need to remove the airbox at all to adjust.

I did this alone, but a driver testing the gearchange at the same time as you adjust the linkage would make it a snap.

(remember adjusting those old roof TV antennae's - shouting to the wife "is that better?", :lol)

HTH

Bas

Try these in this order:-

Adjust linkage, already covered.

Change gear oil. Do not use Silkolene as the new oil, because VAG boxes don't like it.

If neither of these have worked, replace the dogbone mount.

As an alternative to changing the dogbone - you could try filling the dogbone with polyurethane - see the tech guides section. It's an upgrade.

random thought-if you've ever had the console bolts loosened - check they're tight. I had probs engaging 3rd around sweeping curves as they weren't snug.

Good luck with it all.

Cheers Baz; I might have a go at that console check, cos I occasionally miss 3rd, usually on turns.

I did my nut on trying to figure out that 3rd gear miss - then while I was having a 4WA done I asked the mechanic to check the console nuts - they were slightly loose, despite having been torqued up with threadlock. He tightened the daylights out of them, and the prob went away.....

Let us know what happens, eh?

just spent an hour, thought i had it perfect, smoothly in all gears, took it for a short drive and no not quite!

i guess gear box oil next?

Why would/what is, the dog bone/help?

neat US blurb on adjusting - VW Volkswagen GTI-VR6 List - Old Library - How-to: More on adjusting shifter linkages

dogbone mount info: http://briskoda.net/forums/technical-guides/diy-uprated-dogbone-guide/106368/

found some advice - if first gear grinds - shift into 3rd then first.

also see: 60 How can you tell if your synchro is REALLY shot?

HTH

Bas

after reading that, i am going to be spending saturday making tiny cable adjustments.

If it's adjusting to "ok" engine off, and out as soon as the car moves, then it's either the console (QV Basil) or the dogbone I think. The reason being that, when the car is still, you can adjust everything to line up right, but, as soon as it moves, something goes slightly out of alignment, so something mechanical must be moving funny.

Where are the console bolts? are these the ones i can see with the shift gater detached?

I am guessing looking at pictures that the dog bone is under the car? and needs tools to fit? on the basis that i have no way of lifting the car and my tool box is only good for stripping bikes. I think i am going to have to see if i can find someone to have a go.

Any idea on the time it would take? the bushes don't look too expensive but labour rates being labour rates? And as for oil, i might as well do that at the same time? do you know what spec and roughly how much?

I presume the most relevant ones are the ones around the gaiter yes, but I've not even looked at my Haynes, with or without the car, yet.

The dogbone is a gearbox support mount, named for its shape. Again you're looking at checking manuals for more details, but it's the sort of job any local garage with a lift can do.

Similarly with gear oil; spec is basically EP 75W-90 synthetic, but as previously, don't use the Sylkolene product. Several of us have in the past, so we know that VAG boxes don't like it.

I had a tad grinding myself - read your post and then went and adjusted my cables + lubricated them.

Far smoother now - good of you to start this post - reminded me that I had the same prob, :lol:

console bolts are the four ones directly under the the front axle. You can see them as you look straight up, lying under the car - fitting into a sort of flat winged ally+ steel effort stretching between the wheels, aka console. Kinda distinctive - a steel box with 4 bolts in it and a winged ally bit inside it.

You can squeeze under there if you're slim (not me!) or if you carefully jack up a wheel and place a proper safety stand as well. They need to be torqued to "bl**dy tight", so you dont want the jack to shift and car to fall on top of you.:eek:

Dogbone mount fits with 2 bolts into the console/under-engine. Easy to remove. When you re-fit I seem to remember that you should push the engine fwd with your hands before tightening fully, I think that's cos the engine torques its bottom rearwards under load. Could be wrong about that point....

HTH

Bas

So WTF are they called "console bolts" then? They're noplace near a console that I can see (and above the undertray on the TDis).

why would the dog bone affect me when selecting reverse, i am stationary in first, select reverse and get a crunch? Is it just the torque of the engine causing havoc?

Ah, reverse is a different matter entirely. I once regularly drove a car there the only sure-fire way of not crunching (or sometimes just getting) reverse was to:-

1) Stop.

2) Select neutral and let the clutch up.

3) Clutch right down and select first.

4) as (2)

5) Clutch right down and select reverse.

This was to get the gear teeth on reverse stopped and correctly aligned with each other. Nothing to do with the gear change mechanism, but fresh gear oil might have helped.

reverse is the only gear that has no synchro. Wot he said to work around it.

Basically you "borrow" a synchro'ed gear's synchro before you get into reverse.

And wot he said about using only VAG box oil - they misbehave with any other stuff (I tried summat else while "running in" at one point after I installed my LSD/ATB)...

Change back to the regular VAG longlife stuff...

HTH:thumbup:

Bas

Thanks for your help.

So adjust gear linkages and get it as smooth as poss. Then change the oil. If i can be bothered change the dog bone, but basically it is how it will be.

gone to two garages and both have diagnosed a dying Clutch..

bend over and prepare to be shafted!