This is my second VRS 51 now a 54 and this new one has always had a very subtle background noise which never sounded right, but because it was very subtle I put it down to possible different DV, Air Filter or even different tyre road noise, but it has now gradually got worse.

It sounds like being in the cabin of an airplane in flight, a werrring noise of sorts.

I think it maybe turbo or hose related, but I have no warning lights and no loss of performance.

It doesn't appear to get much louder when accelerating, but on a constant throttle it is definately apparent and when the revs are dropping it appears to get louder.

I still hear the Turbo spooling and the DV release, so a little confused as to what it could be - any ideas greatly appreciated.

In at Skoda tomorrow, but would like to know what it is likely to be.

Thanks

If it appears more related to speed could it be a wheel bearing?

No definately doesn't appear to be speed related.

Confusing one, bit annoying though as I have only had this VRS 3 - 4 months.

Took car to skoda this morning I appologise anewman you were absolutely correct wheel bearing.

Phoned garage I bought the car from (not skoda dealership) and they will not help with costs as it is outside of their warrenty by 3 days.

I explained the sound was apparent from word go, but because it was so subtle I thought it was tire noise or just different engine noise compared to my last VRS and only recently got much worse.

They don't seem interested and don't want to help although car was MOT'ed with them only 3 months ago and they didn't flag it then, and it has only done 3k miles since purchase.

I imagine it is not normal for a wheel bearing to go in 30k miles on a 54 reg car?

Or does it all depend on what happened prior to my ownership?

If it was a rear one, perhaps some grit or something got in there when the rear brakes where checked during a service. I had the same sort of sound when my wheel bearing went, and that bearing had only been replaced just over a year earlier and had less than 15k miles on it, so it seems it can happen.

But I got exactly the same noise you describe when my bearing went and it was impossible to tell where it was coming from (I imagined as it was a rear bearing I'd be able to tell it was from the back but it was just this infuriating whirring sound that seemed to come from nowhere inparticular).

Iirc there is an issue with the octy's wheel bearings.

Although I may be wrong !!!!

Hi. I have been looking for the reason of the humming noise appeared in my car a couple of days ago and I found this thread.

 

Thanks to your posts I am now convinced that it is the wheel bearings.

 

BUT I have a question if you can please help, how will I understand which one(s) of the 4 wheels should I get replaced? TIA!

The noise will increase when you take a left or right hand bend as the suspension loads the worn bearing, noise on RH bend = bearing on LHS, the noise may also decrease when you take the opposite bend further confirming the diagnosis.

 

Front or rear wheel bearing? Well you need your MK1 lugholes to decide that.

10 hours ago, J.R. said:

The noise will increase when you take a left or right hand bend as the suspension loads the worn bearing, noise on RH bend = bearing on LHS, the noise may also decrease when you take the opposite bend further confirming the diagnosis.

 

Front or rear wheel bearing? Well you need your MK1 lugholes to decide that.

 

"MK1 lugholes" 😄 Thx 👍🏻

Holy thread resurrection!

 

Another way to check (and how it would be checked at MOT time) is to jack the car up and check for play when wobbling the wheel horizontally and vertically and to spin the wheel and feel/listen for a grumbling bearing.

 

If you take it to a garage they should be able to quite easily diagnose which one it is.

On 27/07/2023 at 21:51, J.R. said:

The noise will increase when you take a left or right hand bend as the suspension loads the worn bearing

Not necessarily.

 

In my experience it can be quite hard to tell from driving the car which wheel bearing it is, hence my recommendation to jack it up and check or just take it to a garage.

 

For each wheel in turn, jack up clear of the ground. Grip the spring half way down with one hand, while spinning the wheel with another. You should feel a failing wheel bearing via the hand on the spring which amplifies the vibrations. Compare for all 4 corners. Its usually one of the front wheel bearings that fail.

 

Obviously take appropriate precautions when jacking the car up.

Petrolbloke.

 

Peoples experiences and connection via their senses to the vehicle will differ.

 

It is very difficult to spin a jacked up wheel fast enough against the drag of a disc brake and driveshaft, differential bearings etc and impossible to do it in a position where you can also get your hand behind the wheel to touch the suspension strut or spring.

 

Easier to do whilst standing upright with the vehicle on a 4 post lift but still very difficult, rear undriven wheels less so with two people it can be done well and give good results.

 

I would be fairly sure that you have never actually tried the former of what you are recommending.

Edited 3 August, 20232 yr by J.R.

Done it many times, its very easy, you don't need to spin the wheel fast, just turn it. It is very obvious when you do a comparison between wheels.

 

It is how mechanics and Mot testers check wheel bearings.

I will compare the other wheels next time, I have stood beside my CT tester when he has shown me a failing bearing and felt the strut (thats what he touches) to feel it myself while he spun the wheel,.

 

Trying to replicate that myself with the vehicle jacked up even using 2 hands I could not get anywhere near the speed he used and that was in a crouching position outside of the wheel to use the maximum force of both arms where it is impossible to reach behind the suspension with one arm and still have sufficient purchase with the other to continue the rotation, I'm still very agile but the wheel would stop in the time it took me to flip over and slide under. I use garage trolley jacks so not a height issue and the Yeti has lots of room around the wheel in the arch. Turning the steering onto lock increases the drag considerably through the CV joint and gaiter.

 

Can you describe how you do it please?

17 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I would be fairly sure that you have never actually tried the former of what you are recommending.

 

I resent your demeaning tone. JR

 

You've obviously spent too long in the roadside hotel arguing with those miscreants that live there.

24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Peoples experiences and connection via their senses to the vehicle will differ.

 

Indeed. I am quite mechanically minded and more sensitive to noises cars make than your average punter and I don't think it's easy to accurately diagnose which wheel bearing is noisy from driving the car.

 

24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I would be fairly sure that you have never actually tried the former of what you are recommending.

🤣

 

I've had failed front wheel bearings on my Octavia and failed rear bearings on my old Clio. The Octavia ones I diagnosed myself and got a garage to fit 2x new bearings (beyond my level of DIY as needs a bearing press). The Clio ones I fixed myself by buying new discs with new bearings already pressed in.

Edited 3 August, 20232 yr by petrolbloke

Then I extend to you Petrolman the invitation made to Xman to please educate me as to how you physically managed this to yourself.

Just now, J.R. said:

 

Can you describe how you do it please?

Why not read my instructions, theres not much more to say, what do you want , pictures, a video maybe.

 

If you cant jack a car up and reach under the wheel arch to grab the coil spring in the middle and turn a tyre with the other hand then thats your problem JR

2 minutes ago, petrolbloke said:

ndeed. I am quite mechanically minded and more sensitive to noises cars make than your average punter and I don't think it's easy to accurately diagnose which wheel bearing is noisy from driving the car.

 

I quite agree regarding differentiating front to back and I recently posted exactly that, perhaps not on this thread.

Just now, xman said:

Why not read my instructions, theres not much more to say, what do you want , pictures, a video maybe.

 

If you cant jack a car up and reach under the wheel arch to grab the coil spring in the middle and turn a tyre with the other hand then thats your problem JR

My problem is that I did read your instructions and believe that it is impossible for the reasons that I explained in detail.

 

This is a forum for helping each other, if my technique was incorrect and there is a way to achieve the force required to turn a wheel against  considerable resistance twith one hand (including the weaker arm) to anywhere near the speed that an MOT tester can with it in front of his chest starting with both arms then you should be happy to share that with me. That you dont tells me that I need not spend any more time questioning why I cannot achieve what others are advocating.

Just now, J.R. said:

Why not read my instructions, theres not much more to say, what do you want , pictures, a video maybe

 

Polite instructions would be welcome.

Look at the 7 minute mark.

 

22 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Polite instructions would be welcome.

Save your Lee type sarcasm for the roadside hotel

Edited 3 August, 20232 yr by xman

Pot, kettle, black.