I can imagine loading the toys, cleaning the sleigh, brushing down the raindeer and of course checking the list twice he he he ho ho ho:rofl:

ho ho ho indeed, sorry for lack of updates i've been busy...

anywho, there's a decision i need to make pretty soon and i'm weighing up the pro's and cons... should i use the standard airbox and filter or go for one of those silly cone things??

Isn't a good cold air feed the best thing? A cone in a warm engine bay....?! K&N standard fit filters are about £40 off ebay.

if i were to use a cone (not a mr whippy:D) i would build a little dam to segregate it from the engine, but i'm not convinced there would be any gain at all, after all the standard air filter is only a few quid to buy....

depends how many pennies you have left

If the rest of the engine is standard incl. exhaust a cone filter probably won't make much difference. The idea of these cones is to reduce the normally restrictive air supply system to the engine, If you don't give the cone a cold air supply, normally from the front of the car you make the engine run worse. The idea is that colder air supports bigger droplets of fuel and prevents the mixture starting to burn to early (ALA turbo intercoolers to cool the charged air), if the air is warm you have a poorer fuel to air ratio and earlier detonation less power.

So any boy racers out there with the cone sitting in a hot engine bay with no cold feed you've just wasted your money and the standard system will actually be more powerful:thumbdwn:

the engine is more or less standard albiet a mixture of different engines thrown together, and fwiw the standard airbox is not that bad in my opinion

the engine is more or less standard albiet a mixture of different engines thrown together, and fwiw the standard airbox is not that bad in my opinion

Tom, the standard air box will be just fine

i've got to stage now where i have to fit certain bits in the right order, i need to fit the brakes before i put the driveshafts in so i need some wheels, i'm not 100% sure if those brakes will fit inside a 15" wheel, so i ordered a g60 steel wheel part number 357601025m, i've only got one for now just to test it out. the reason for this is because i need to be able to use the brakes to hold the hub so i can tighten the nut on the end of the driveshaft, then its just a simple case of fitting all the other bits on plus i'll put the homemade coilovers on at the same time, although i still need to resolve a fuel system issue, and still need to fabricate a stronger rear engine mounting... then once all that is done i need to put all the gear linkage on so i can work out what shape the exhaust downpipe needs to be, then quickly knock one up

Only ever put a K&N Ring Filter in a 1.3 8v Belmont, seemed to be a lil smoother at pulling through the rev range (carb engines only fuel correctly at a given revs).

Since then i've never bothered, the mk4 astras i just used the enlarged and smoother flowing intake from the Vectra C Diesel (About £13 for the pipe and the adaptor). Combined with removing the plastic pipes from the inside of vauxhalls airbox's.

Not sure if Skoda do the same, so i wouldn't bother with a cone, if you can make the intake less restrictive with a cold air feed you stand to gain more looks less chavvy also.

quick trial fitting of the brakes, they seem to fit the wheel ok but i think i'm going to need to use some wheel spacers so the tyre doesn't touch the suspension

Not sure if Skoda do the same, so i wouldn't bother with a cone, if you can make the intake less restrictive with a cold air feed you stand to gain more looks less chavvy also.

the felicia has a cold feed as standard anyhow, there is a duct that feeds up air from next to the fog light:D

I understand they have a cold airfeed, i should have elaborated on myself.

If you've ever seen a Vauxhall Astra with an 2.0 Ecotec Turbo, you may understand me...from the airbox to the turbo there is a crossover pipe that sits above the engine, its made of alloy so suffers from heatsoak also lengthening the inlet track.

Now if you took a airbox from a 2.2 Ecotec Vauxhall Astra and lengthened the wires on the MAF to reach down towards the front to the manifold, you can take the restrictive crossover pipe out. As the airbox feed rather than going towards the bulk head, itcomes out of the front, With the correct use of silicone hoses you can connect the airbox to the turbo inlet. From experience though, i wouldnt take any pipework off of the MAF. I took the 90 degree bend off of mine and it flagged the ABS/TC light on disabling the TC, which was pretty mental with 200bhp sat under your right foot.

Was thinkin along the lines of making the inlet as simple as possible, i understand though that the length of pipe can alter the torque/power of the engine marginally.

Like the extended brake carriers you've made up, all shiny bling

Like the extended brake carriers you've made up, all shiny bling

i must admit, i didn't make those, all i did was russtle up the technical drawings for them on autocad then a local precision engineering firm made them for £150

Was thinkin along the lines of making the inlet as simple as possible, i understand though that the length of pipe can alter the torque/power of the engine marginally.

yes, the length and diameter can vastly affect the torque characteristics of the engine, but not so much upstream of the throttle body and plenum, i'm not sure of the exact measurements till i fit it all together but i reckon a short piece of ally tubing with a couple of bends in the right place should do the job, also i take on what you say about heatsoak on the vx units, the old renualt 5 used to suffer with that too

£150! is that supplying the material aswell?! What sort of alloy are they?

The Z20LET use to suffer from heatsoak quite alot.

I ended up bringing the oil up to temp waiting on the pod and switching it off and opening the bonnet to allow the engine to cool a little then pouring cold water on the puney intercooler, was running 15.5 seconds at 89mph with half a tank of 95ron and a 12" Alpine Type R sub in the boot.

Until the last run where the gear selector cables didnt quite give me 4th and ended up selecting 2nd at 90mph shoving the rev counter past 7k right around to the bottom of the dials (whoops).

Did the trek all the way back to rotherham and some without any problems apart from a noisey lay shaft while idling lol. First thoughts was ah fek ive just shoved the gears through the casing!

£150! is that supplying the material aswell?! What sort of alloy are they?

off hand i can't remember, but if i recall they should be 7052 with a t5 temper, and that was including them suipplying the material

Yea, i thought you may have supplied the material.

Not alot of experience with 7052, im usually use to inspecting 4304 for valves that go into nuclear applications.

no they supplied it, i think it was an offcut from a larger project they were doing

Those brakes look like some serious stopping power and look the part with the ally bracket. Are you leaving the steel wheels on or do you have a set of allys for it? Coming along nicely. :thumbup:

tom,

i'm using G60's at the mow, and there is no issues with suspension clearance on my HP's.

they look pretty dam good to.

thanks ed, although you are rolling on the standard brakes aren't you?? the g60 disc has a thinner centre hub, i suppose i ought to go and find some tyres and test it out

Those brakes look like some serious stopping power and look the part with the ally bracket. Are you leaving the steel wheels on or do you have a set of allys for it? Coming along nicely. :thumbup:

i'm gonna roll on the g60 steels because they are cheap and it doesn't matter if i bend them because i can just knock them back straight with a mallet unlike alloy wheels

i'm gonna roll on the g60 steels because they are cheap and it doesn't matter if i bend them because i can just knock them back straight with a mallet unlike alloy wheels

You expecting some power understeer action maybe!!!! Have to practise your Swedish flick and left foot braking:D

By the way what tyres and sizes are you gonna roll on?

By the way what tyres and sizes are you gonna roll on?

195/45/15 with v rating.... cheap as chips

i'm running

yokohama A539's on the back

yokohama Sdrives on the front.

i got the wheel with tyers and center caps, all ready to roll, for £155!!!!!