It's not a torx.

It's an 8mm spline drive.

It's not a torx.

It's an 8mm spline drive.

That would explain it then.

Thanks

After blasting my lock with WD40 it had no effect initially, apart from washing all the wax out of the door, so now my sill has lovely wax marks where its dribbled out!

Anyway, after driving the car it works now, but only after driving for a bit, and not every time! Just sort of works when it feels like it, but the WD40 obviously helped.

I think I might get at mine just to see what's up and to clean it before I fork out for a new unit.

Let us know how you get on matt, once you have that spline bit.

Good luck!

Try feeding it some powdered graphite, if you think it's a lock lubrication problem.

I have done this on my drivers door, you dont have to take out the window mechanism, but it is fiddly to get the lock part out...., i took my motor apart and resoldered the joints, and amazingly got it all back together and working again.

I would say if you can afford it buy a new one as its def the easier route, however if you cant and are handy and dont mind spending some time doing it (with a fair bit of swearing) and wondering how and why so many parts go into a door mechanism then go for it.

There is a guide on vwvortex for the passat/golf if i remember and thats what i followed, althought the actual taking the door apart is different as some of the parts are obviously different.

i couldnt get the bolts off from the side of the door either. spline bits, what are they???????? i drilled mine out instead and oput some nice shiny new flat head bolts back in. TIP TOP.

couldnt fix the problem tho, could seem to un hook the wire from the external door handle!! DOH!!!!!

I had the same problem, doors auto-locking, lights not coming on. I too took the door card off and was fazed by the 8mm spline bit bolts, and I couldn't get any bite on the recessed hex head bolts that hold the lock barrel in. I also couldn't figure out that the door release cable needs to be clipped to the door card otherwise it won't work (took me a while to figure out...). The Haynes manual was typically useless when it came to reassembly.

In the end I let the local independent swap it for about £90 to save myself the hassle.

They gave me the old one back if anyone wants a go. I haven't had a chance to play with it much but I guess it's the micro-switch / dry joint at fault.

J

... and I couldn't get any bite on the recessed hex head bolts that hold the lock barrel in.

The tool you need to release the lock barrel is a 4mm spline drive. Laser do the correct tool for about £4.50

LaserTools | Spline Screwdriver M4 x 170mm (2901)

but how do you get the small, really small handle cable off???????????

Take the lock barrel out.

Unclip it from the door handle (in the hole where the lock barrel was).

Make sure you only unscrew the barrel retaining screw just enough to remove the barrel.

Ive got exactly the same problem, lived with it for nearly 12 months, and B**ger me, the other day it was working again!!!

Only worked for about an hour then stopped again!

So its deffo a dry/cracked solder joint then, the big question is can i be bothered to faf about and repair it or not?

mine has randomly started working almost all of the time now. not sure if its the weather or wd40, but it never used to work atall

well mine is still crap!!!!

Well,

Finally fitted my scrap yard door mech :) :) It works. So with buying the door mech a spline bit and a ratchet it's cost me £45 to replace it.

Well Chuffed.