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Oil change... should i use some flush?


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Hey chaps.Nelly is due an oil and filter change.Was just wondering if you thought it worth using some engine flush stuff (such as wynns).Used it on my old citroen zx diesel and the car seemed very smooth afterwards but don't know if it would have felt like this anyway?phil

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i always put 1 quart of transmision oil to the engine one week prior to changing the oil and filter, it helps to slowly remove and disolve the black gunk without fussin the system, did this on my feli and on my vw golf and also on my mothers toyota 86'

always used the same engine oil 10W40 from a SAE certified brand (it realy doent matter the brand) what engine grade do you use ?

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i always put 1 quart of transmision oil to the engine one week prior to changing the oil and filter, it helps to slowly remove and disolve the black gunk without fussin the system, did this on my feli and on my vw golf and also on my mothers toyota 86'

DONT do it on an engine with hydraulic lifters you'll more than likely ruin them

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I recall a mass debate within some VAG forums on this this subject a few years back where someone asked the same question.

A lot of folk do this type of thing to loosen the crud in their engine but there were also those that had done it and ended up with the oil pressure warning buzzer sounding as all the loose crud that was flushed down into the sump blocked up the gauze on the oil pump strainer and starved the engine of oil.

This is obviously not a problem if you are prepared to go the whole hog after using a flush and drop your sump down for a deep clean.

My local Skoda dealer ALWAYS use an engine flush when carrying out an oil change, but then my local dealer were responsible for the engine in my VRS blowing up!

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Mk2 owners actually recommend putting some Automatic Transmission fluid in the engine oil shortly before changing to relieve sticky tappets etc.

I personally wouldnt bother doing this just for the tappets when you can buy a replacement set for around £20.

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i wouldn't bother using it personally, the rule of thumb i used in my tiny mind is that if your oil is that dirty it's already too late for salvation

I'd say from running engines for 250k that it's worth running maybe once every 40-60k miles. I'd use something good quality such as the forte oils or maybe a dedicated drain, fill with flushing oil, fast idle for 10 minutes then drain and fill with clean oil.

If you do use it drain via the drain plug and try leave it to sit for a while to get as much out as possible.

It's really only for removing sludge deposits, but then if you've left it too long and the engine is full of them flush will make it worse because they will be dislodged and might get stuck somewhere.

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I've used proper flushing oil before and also used a can of the additive stuff. When I used the additive stuff the oil flowed out the sump very quickly, so must have been thinned alot. Doesn't seem to have been an issue caused by either, although I think on one occasion just after the oil change the engine needed more starter motor time to get it started than usual but just for that one time - not sure why or if that means anything bad.

I think people tend to recommend the proper flushing oil, rather than the additive stuff? Might be a good idea to use the cheapie 20w-50 stuff sold in asda to help remove the flushing oil, or to use that as a flushing oil itself?

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I think thats what I read in Car Mechanics.

Some flushes can damage the seals inside an engine.

If its discovered a flush was used (maybe servicing yourself or outside a dealer network) then the warranty may be voided.

Think this only applied to modern engines where they used thinner more synthetic oils.

I have no idea if engine flush was used on my Astra or my Felicia before I bought it but I've never seen any engine flush used on my Felicia and the engines run smooth without issues.

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for exacly all the reasons everyone has mention is why i use transmision fluid;

it loosens the sludge, but no so much sow as to clog anything. the sludge binds to the trans-fluid and hense mixes safely with the oil

the factor is heat combine with the trans-oil, you can actualy leave it in for as much as two weeks and it will evaporate leaving the sludge mixed with the oil,

but teflonTom is correct (he has a nack of doing that) so for cars with lifter you dont leave it a week, you put it in and leave it for a day's drive, it would remove "some" sludge and if you do this on every oil change and change the oil before it gets dark i garanteee a clean engine

my MKII Golf GL had those things and in fact, after doing this and putting the correct oli (most people run 20W50 here without question or real reason, just afraid cus is a "Hot" climat, and ofcoruse thats the same reason they take out the thermostats on theyr cars.. dumbasses) the floats worked like a charme, with no noise and peppier feel to the engine

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another thing that just poped into mind, if engine oil is realy dirty (black or back/brown) dont flush, you might have too much in your plate, just change the oils and do it more frequently, and withing two or three oil changes do the flush, that way, the ammount of dirt and gunk is gradualy reomved without damaging anything for the sake of instant clean...

hope that helps a bit in saving a couple of bucks and a engine

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Hey chaps.Nelly is due an oil and filter change.Was just wondering if you thought it worth using some engine flush stuff (such as wynns).Used it on my old citroen zx diesel and the car seemed very smooth afterwards but don't know if it would have felt like this anyway?phil

No.:thumbup:

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