Hi all - sorry about another post but I could not work out how to put another attachment in a reply.

Try this one as it is the original full blown VW info sheet.

Regards

John

VW Pollen Filter repair.pdf

Hi all - sorry about another post but I could not work out how to put another attachment in a reply.

Try this one as it is the original full blown VW info sheet.

Regards

John

Straight from VW tech, eh? Wonder if SUK can deny it's existence now?

Good work )although the original was converted in to PDF in the last thread)

SUK say they know nothing of this info sheet and just told me to take a copy to my Dealer and have them make a decision on what was best to do? I also found an article on the www saying in New Jersey there was to be a court case in 2009 against VW/Audi on just this problem.

Class Act litigation or something simliar.

Regards

John

www.volkswagen-classaction.com

Edited 26 November, 200817 yr by johannapam1

Good to see this in writing - even if it is about 10 years late.

As a temporary measure on my car (before I go in there seriously when it needs a new battery) I have run duct tape around the inside of the pollen filter housing below the filter - this bridges and seals the original crappy foam. Although not a permanent solution, this will stop any short term leaks and takes about 5 minutes to do.

I have of course removed the bungs under the battery and servo - I wonder why these are not mentioned...

rotodiesel.

Roto

Found this on Honest John website about purchasing a used Passat. This mentions the bungs and in 2007 also there was a recall to remove these bungs - but not to any owner that did not use Main Dealer network for service. It stinks does it not.

Regards

John

What to Watch Out For.doc

Roto

Found this on Honest John website about purchasing a used Passat. This mentions the bungs and in 2007 also there was a recall to remove these bungs - but not to any owner that did not use Main Dealer network for service. It stinks does it not.

It probably does stink - but I can't read this doc either. :confused:

Try this link then

John

Car review: Volkswagen Passat (2001 - 2005)

I used to replace the seal on the pollen filter housings on the A6 (same design) in 1999.

No change in 9 yrs then - well done VAG - or should we complain at SKU for not taking up the issue with VAG. They must know about this problem with the number of people complaining of electrics damage etc?

It really is disgusting that VAG have got away with this - although in New jersey next year they may come a cropper. If so would this open the door to UK customers. I need to watch this space for the outcome!!

John

VAG's attitude to this type of problem together with their absolute refusal to let Skoda have any design authority whatsoever has ensured that VAG will get no more of my cash.

I feel sorry for Skoda - they have made an honest job of assembling Wolfsburg junk.

rotodiesel.

I feel sorry for Skoda - they have made an honest job of assembling Wolfsburg junk.

Is there a compliment in there, Roto?

It is a shame that SUK say they know nothing of this sheet, it really is. Still, Roto makes a valid point about VAG's "throttling" of Skoda - his point is about design, but I suspect there's a certain gagging going on of their customer service department.

It's only in MK... perhaps I should apply for a job there...

BTW, this "bung recall" - I don't recall ever seeing that mentioned, certainly not as a recall... when I purchased my car I did some research on recalls and found nothing? :confused:

Rear drivers door not unlocking and spontaneous flashing of interior light when driving - lifted front passenger side carpet and found it was damp!

Dried off with my wife's hairdryer and although the CCM black housing had some water in, the main box was luckily bone dry. I pulled off the wiring loom joint seals and dryed/ WD40'd then (no real corrosion - will clean and resolder after Christmas).

Luckily the rear door now opens.

I removed the three 10mm nuts from the pollen housing but can't seem to get the housing out. I have tried to remove the plastic drain channel above it, but am afraid to break it. Will try the duct tape as a temporary measure (thanks rotodiesel) - but has anyone got any tips on how to get the housing out, so I can silicon seal it properly?

Also, rear footwell trim is hard to lift out at the back seat - any tricks on this? Need to dry under rear carpet, as it is damp their too.

The housing is a pain in the ar53 to get out. But it won't come out unless you remove that top drain channel. It does come out with some persuasion, and you will lose some skin off your knuckles. I would suggest bending it down in the middle slightly and unclipping the side nearest the battery. This should allow you enough space / room to get it out the other side by sliding it the other way.

One tip would be to remove only two of the 10mm nuts, the one right at the back almost under the bonnet hinge is best loosened, as getting it back in is almost impossible. The carrier will come out as it's held in place with a slotted hole rather than a round one - you will see this when you remove it.

When it is out, remove all that sponge / gasket / rubbish seal that is there, and then clean the channel thoroughly, and then the metal work of the bulkhead where the gasket sat. Then whack your silicon in there and replace.

One word of warning though and that is your car will stink of silicon for a while, but it will be ok after a couple of weeks or so.

Send a Private Message to the guy who started this thread, I did send him a step by step guide, which may be of use.

I removed the three 10mm nuts from the pollen housing but can't seem to get the housing out. I have tried to remove the plastic drain channel above it, but am afraid to break it. Will try the duct tape as a temporary measure (thanks rotodiesel) - but has anyone got any tips on how to get the housing out, so I can silicon seal it properly?

This is the side that SJFISHER67 mentioned that needs to come out first.

I know what you mean about breaking it, but it does take a lot of abuse, just as well really as its even more fun to get back in - whatever you do don't be tempted to leave it off, otherwise all your hard work will be wasted as the rain will just run off the windscreen straight through the filter,

IMO it is the most important part of the job and it is worth double checking that it is fitted back correctly.

Hi I've been reading the thread with interest and made enquiry at both my local dealers and an independent VW. Local Skoda said they could do the work by replacing existing gaslet with one which can be then sealed using a sealent. Total cost 198 pounds. Local VW said they do these all the time and put a new seal which cost 30-40 pounds. As a preventative measure I'm going to get mine done next week.

Can you let us know if the VW Dealer actually does this job for you as I was told by two main Dealers and VW Customer Service that VW could only do bog standard service work on Skoda's. They did not class this job as a bog standard service job. My Skoda main dealer did the job as per the VW sheet (I purchased the sealant from VW at £30) for £158. They also removed the bungs and cleaned plenum chamber. Then I had them lift N/S front carpet to make sure all was dry. The total time was about 3 hrs.

Sorry, I'm a bit confused here. I'm aware of the issue of leaves blocking the plenum chamber drains leading to water getting into the passenger foot well. When the weather gets a bit warmer I'm going to do this myself (cleaning the plenum out and unblocking the drains), it seems an easy enough job to do? Is the pollen filer housing another known cause of similar water ingress then?

Yes. The seal on the filter housing is a very poor design and can eventually break down and allow water into the car.

"The housing is a pain in the ar53 to get out. But it won't come out unless you remove that top drain channel. It does come out with some persuasion, and you will lose some skin off your knuckles. I would suggest bending it down in the middle slightly and unclipping the side nearest the battery. This should allow you enough space / room to get it out the other side by sliding it the other way.

One tip would be to remove only two of the 10mm nuts, the one right at the back almost under the bonnet hinge is best loosened, as getting it back in is almost impossible. The carrier will come out as it's held in place with a slotted hole rather than a round one - you will see this when you remove it.

When it is out, remove all that sponge / gasket / rubbish seal that is there, and then clean the channel thoroughly, and then the metal work of the bulkhead where the gasket sat. Then whack your silicon in there and replace.

One word of warning though and that is your car will stink of silicon for a while, but it will be ok after a couple of weeks or so".

See also attachment in the very first thread "VW Pollen filter repair"

I bought this stuff from a VW garage and had my Skoda Dealer do the job for me.

One other thing - REMOVE the two rubber bungs in the pelnum chamber don't just clean them. See link below:

Car review: Volkswagen Passat (2001 - 2005)

Hope this helps

Edited 1 January, 200917 yr by johannapam1

The sealing cord that vw use for the repair is alot better than silicone. There are a few repairs that would required the removal of the housing and if its siliconed in place you aint gonna move it for love nor money without breaking it into pieces.

I'd do the pollen filter sealing for £40.

Thanks, I was unaware of this particular bear trap! When you pull the battery out to clean under it and put it back, do you need a code for the sat nav/radio at all? I'm not sure I have radio code for my 2.5 TDi Elegance.

Use a slave battery connected to the socket in the boot, disconnect the positive main battery lead first and insulate it - I use an old glove and a big cable tie.

It's a complete pain letting the electrical system "die" on these cars if you don't have to.

When you have finished changing the battery, check the tightness of the main alternator output lead at the battery connector. It's stupidly held by a single M6 bolt which loosens when you move the lead. A loose connection here will cause all sorts of trouble, possibly expensive.

VAG just don't work out what the pitfalls are for an unskilled mechanic doing a routine job. That's why their cars are so unreliable when they get old. The Japanese never make that mistake - routine jobs are straightforward using standard fluids and tools.

If a VAG car gets proper attention, it will outlast a Japanese one - but you won't get this at a VAG dealer.

rotodiesel.

Yes you will need the code. The other issue particularly with the 2.5 TDI as mine is also - is removing the battery. It is very awkward and bloody heavy they say. This is why I had the dealer do the job for me. It was well worth the £200 (Bits and Labour) to have the job done for me. particularly as the end cost if you don't avoid these issues is likely to be in the thousands (Electrics etc). By the way I have heard that you could put a slave battery plugged into the boot cigarette lighter thingy and this would then not require the code.

Just noticed Roto has also given the slave battery solution above.

Thank you both for the above comments.

Yes. The seal on the filter housing is a very poor design and can eventually break down and allow water into the car.

"The housing is a pain in the ar53 to get out. But it won't come out unless you remove that top drain channel. It does come out with some persuasion, and you will lose some skin off your knuckles. I would suggest bending it down in the middle slightly and unclipping the side nearest the battery. This should allow you enough space / room to get it out the other side by sliding it the other way.

One tip would be to remove only two of the 10mm nuts, the one right at the back almost under the bonnet hinge is best loosened, as getting it back in is almost impossible. The carrier will come out as it's held in place with a slotted hole rather than a round one - you will see this when you remove it.

When it is out, remove all that sponge / gasket / rubbish seal that is there, and then clean the channel thoroughly, and then the metal work of the bulkhead where the gasket sat. Then whack your silicon in there and replace.

One word of warning though and that is your car will stink of silicon for a while, but it will be ok after a couple of weeks or so".

See also attachment in the very first thread "VW Pollen filter repair"

I bought this stuff from a VW garage and had my Skoda Dealer do the job for me.

One other thing - REMOVE the two rubber bungs in the pelnum chamber don't just clean them. See link below:

Car review: Volkswagen Passat (2001 - 2005)

Hope this helps

That's a familiar read....