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Extra torque provided by REVO probably helps :P:D

i dont have my srage 2 map on at the moment, going to wait now until the downpipe and cat is on

i dont have downpipe or cat so you dont need it unless you a chasing bhp no's imho

Carl:thumbup:

got it, would never have worked that out, im a computer biff. you've spent some money there then. i bet that goes like the clappers.

thats preety much the performance spec im heading for, although the wife wouldnt allow the KO4 conversion

i think once the exhaust is on and im at stage 2 next month, i think ill just smack on an s3 intercooler and apr fuel pump and call t a day with the engine,

then its just suspension and handling left to do, going the eibach/koni suspension route, paired to H&R 28mm front and 24mm rear ARBs, with my pilot sport 2s, poss LSD if i can stretch to it

i dont think i need to uprate my brakes though. the new discs, pads, braided hoses and fluid is working sweetly.

i dont have downpipe or cat so you dont need it unless you a chasing bhp no's imho

Carl:thumbup:

have you not suffered with the excessive heat the other have mentioned, or maybe the uprated intercooler is dealing with that

how is that autotech fuel pump rated compared to the apr version which is much more expensive. 240pound for autotech, to 624 for the apr pump. thats some drastic difference, although if it is good quality its an absolute no brainer choice.

The Autotech pump is just the internal piston and collar. Whereas the APR pump is the full pump. there is another version (KMD i think) and that is only around £160 if my memory serves me right but most people are using the APR one now so its really up to you.

Get your car on a rolling road with a good tuner and they will tell you if you need the Pump. If you are experiencing fuel cuts then yes you need it. If you are gonna chase big bhp no's then yes you prob need it. If you want REVO stage II+ or Bluefin equivalent then yes you will need it as that map takes into account the pump. However if none of the above apply then dont bother with it. All i know is with certain mods its good for around 15-20bhp and around 20-30lb/ft torque. But i stress you need other components. I only got it because i was getting fuel cuts and the pump cured it.

I only recently added the S3 Cooler and before that i never had any issues with heat. But then again i rarely thrash the car so maybe that could be why.

HTH

Carl:thumbup:

that explains the cheaper price, i thought there must be a reason there. What was the cost of labour for the stripping and rebuilding of the stock pump with the new parts plus where do you go. i dont think ill go for the pump until i know that i need it though.

I think the AT and KMD pumps are quite a bit more then that Carl.

KMD Tuning - KMD FSI Fuel Pump Kit

Autotech Sport Tuning - Engine-Fuel Injection, FSI High Volume Fuel Pump, Co Mixture Tool, EHA Test Harness

i read a thread earlier with jkm explaining the reasons for no longer selling them and switching to APR, due to it being long winded process, so can anyone recommend anybody to install it, because at that price id install it straight away

Install what Simon, the APR or the KMD/AT internals?

kmd/at internals, im stuggling to come to terms with the APR price, in comparison.

it must still be cheaper to strip and uprate the original and reinstall, than to buy the new pump from apr anf fit that

I would consider having a chat with Keith at JKM. His comments will be based on a reasonable amount of experiance with thse pumps.

I used to run an AT pump, one of the very first ones and from the same batch that both Carl and Chris Ellis run (and Micky32 IIRC) all of which to the best of my knowledge perform perfectly however AFAIK both KMD and AT revised their designs and this has lead to the issues currently experienced.

If you decide to go ahead then there are some dealers in the UK that will supply you one.

ill give him a call, if its around half the price ill look into doing that in feb/mar, but if its more, i think ill just wait to see if i have the fuel cut off once i get my stage 2 map up. thanks forthe help mateloaded

I think the AT and KMD pumps are quite a bit more then that Carl.

KMD Tuning - KMD FSI Fuel Pump Kit

Autotech Sport Tuning - Engine-Fuel Injection, FSI High Volume Fuel Pump, Co Mixture Tool, EHA Test Harness

Well i was going from memory which is average at the best of times:finger:

If you do go with the AT or KMD it is fairly easy to do it yourself (i did with the help of my dad & about 300 calls to a certain someone on this site ) you just have to be mega mega careful and ensure you set TDC before you start.

There is a set of pdf instructions somewhere i'll see if i can find them for you.

Edit: They are on each of the KMD and AT links Stu posted above

Carl:thumbup:

With the uprated fuel pumps how often is it necessary to change the fuel pump cam follower?

Also do the Octavia vRS have the 1 piece cam or the revision B 2 piece cam or does it depend on the year of your car?

i havent had mine changed and ive had the pump for around 20k miles and its fine

HTH

Carl:thumbup:

"If you want REVO stage II+ or Bluefin equivalent then yes you will need it as that map takes into account the pump"

I actually double checked this with SC before I upgraded to the Stage 2, they say you dont need the pump for this map. only for applications over 280bhp would you need it. Their map is only for 260bhp but from what I've read it a bit of a pot luck, some have needed a new pump for even modest gains where as others have been fine for stage 2 Revo.

I'm going to get it on the rollers first and see if its needed as I dont plan to stage it any further than the CAI, Turbo back and the Stage 2 map. BHP per £1 starts to drop dramatically after that point.....better to sell up and buy a different car

Ron

I think the BWA engined Octy RS has the later, harder cam fitted.

APR recommend 10k mile intervals for the follower, I changed mine when I had one.

I'm gonna whip the cover off my 56 plate Octavia this weekend just to double check it has got the harder 2 piece cam. Might even remove the fuel pump follower and inspect that.

I know that in the states there have been problems with fuel pump follower wear and cam wear on the early Mk5 GTi's especially those with uprated pumps.

Mine is standard at the moment, 20K miles probably just being paraniod but might be worth checking whilst there is some warranty left.

Out of interest Stu was your follower worn when you replaced it?

P.S. sorry for the thread hijack

Edited 7 January, 200917 yr by peter0976

Ron I think you'll find as you start to add more air (CAI) then you can run more timing, a little more fuel and that's when you'll find it.

No not really Pete but as you'll find if you take yours off and you have one of the earlier pumps they are a barsteward to get off and so for £20 you may as well throw another on. On the later cars, of which both my Octavia were the left of the two pipes is flexible and much better.

is the cam follower checked on a service or not?

Stu how easy is it to check as ive never had mine done if so i best get it done pretty quickly me thinks if it needs it

I don't believe the cam follower is checked on service. Too much time.

To check you need to remove the pump and there is a little bucket that sits in the recess which you can pull out with your little (in my case) finger.

Check the outside which rubs on the cam for wear and also have a look with a torch at the cam.

If you find wear or a cracking of the hardness replace, or at 20k Carl I would suggest a replacement anyway.