Central locking problems

[NuttyP]

Hi,

I've just registered with this site today, to see if anyone else has a similar problem to me, and what the fix is. Hey presto, what do I find

Last night my Octavia started some central locking nonsense - it locked itself, and on pushing the "unlock" button on the fob it would unlock and lock again all in one go. This morning it appeared to be OK, but suddenly locked itself going round a roundabout.

I've also noted some of the other reported problems in the past: I'm sure the supposed heated mirrors have never worked (bought car second hand at 10K miles) and sometimes both mirrors move when adjusting the left.

Seems I'm not alone. I'm not too keen on stripping off the trims to get at the control box that you folk say is the prime suspect - it's hard to avoid damage, the fixings break and nothing goes back quite the same. Has anyone done this work, and can they re-assure me that it's a reasonable DIY job, or should I trust it to a dealer? If the existing controller is removed and thoroughly dried out, connector dried, then re-fitted & sealed, is it likely to function properly?

Glad I found this forum before just handing the keys to my local dealer, hope you guys and gals can advise,

Cheers, Mr P

[Sri5]

If possible mate, drop your door card off and check the connector pin condition that plugs into the door module. You should be able to see some corrosion if its that.

[schmooser]

check the compartment in the boot where the cd player is, or would be if it were fitted. The screenwash tube (on the estate) can separate leaving a puddle of water to short things out on corners and bumps!

I had loads of locking problems and spent days removing dashboard and door trims only to discover this after buying fleabay vagcom cable which had a tailgate intermitent short to ground fault.

Dried it out rewired a couple of corroded connectors and bob's your uncle!

[jonnycatbiscuit]

i know my problem isn't the drivers door lock solenoid, because I've already replaced that. Gonna check the boot first tomorrow, then whip the door card off...

[Tech1e]

Didn't you check the control unit whilst you had the door card off when changing the solenoid?

[jonnycatbiscuit]

Didn't you check the control unit whilst you had the door card off when changing the solenoid?

Nope. I'm stupid. (and I didn't know anything about the control unit then)

[Funkoid]

if you take the door card off again and you get a chance could you take a couple of snaps jonnycatbiscuit. Still got my same issue just with the drivers door but its completely gone now which I'm not too happy about!!! Feels like more of a mechanical thing to me with the way its work then not working etc

How long has yours been like this? I've been putting it down to weather being so naff - one of my family has had issue with their Renault and the rear window opening and shutting when it wants!!!

[jonnycatbiscuit]

if you take the door card off again and you get a chance could you take a couple of snaps jonnycatbiscuit. Still got my same issue just with the drivers door but its completely gone now which I'm not too happy about!!! Feels like more of a mechanical thing to me with the way its work then not working etc

How long has yours been like this? I've been putting it down to weather being so naff - one of my family has had issue with their Renault and the rear window opening and shutting when it wants!!!

Mine's been like it about a month. I'll have a look tomorrow and take a load of pictures...

[NuttyP]

Thanks for the flow of info, especially the tip about the rear screen wash tube, as I have discovered that there is damp somewhere at the back (and mine is an estate). However, water is still reaching the rear screen, so maybe the tube has not seperated. I had the tailgate re-sprayed on warranty (corrosion issue) so was blaming the damp on something due to that work. Sounds easy to check, so best I start here.

If it's not that simple, then suspicion will fall again on the door unit. I would be very grateful for any info on how to remove the door card, and get it back together all neat and tidy, so any photos would be more than welcome, and would help me no end.

[KenONeill]

The mirrors are designed to move together when you adjust one of them, but not the other.

If you look at the markings on the mirror control, you'll see it has 3 positions, left, right, and one in the middle (which also isolates both mirror motors). That middle position is the only one where the mirror heaters work, and then only when you use the HRW.

[NuttyP]

The mirrors are designed to move together when you adjust one of them, but not the other.

Explain please? I know there's been times when both move together, and I've assumed this is a fault. However, I do dip the N/S when parking, in order to see the kerb, and don't think the drivers mirror moves then. If both are meant to move together, I can only think that this is intended to help when different drivers need a different seat position. What do you know?

[KenONeill]

It's a design feature; when you adjust one mirror (I think the driver's side) the passenger side moves with it, then you switch the control, and fine-tune the passenger side one.

[jonnycatbiscuit]

the passenger side one will move on its own - the drivers side one moves along with the passenger side one. Basically so that once you have them adjusted, and someone else gets in and adujsts the drivers door mirror for themselves, the passenger one moves in (or out) automatically.

[NuttyP]

Yes, that sounds about right, though why they think it's necessary goodness only knows. So my mirrors are OK, many thanks for that.

Which leaves me with the locking problem - what a nightmare: use the key and try to grab the door open as soon as the lock releases. Too slow and it locks again before you can get it open. We are not amused!

Cheers

[KenONeill]

Unfortunately the door problem looks a fair bit like a driver's door loom or convenience controller issue.

There is one other possibility though. Can the relock delay be configured in VAGCom? If so, it might be that the relock delay has somehow configured itself to a silly small value.

[VWD]

Looking at all those moisture in this /corrossion in that due to moisture - way back in the late 60's /early 70's there was a spray well known to Mini owners with ignition systems allergic to moisture ingress ( possibly all of them I'd have thought) .

Can't remember the name of it ,but it not only repelled moisture ,but applied a plasticy layer around the parts it was sprayed on -sort of sealing damp out - but making it easy (if needed ) to get inside things like dizzy cap .(Ideal solution at the time as the rubber caps tended to hold water in ,rather than keeping it out )

(That is ,of course ,if this stuff still exists .)

Just an idea, to think about .

[Funkoid]

Just managed to run mine via the vag com and have the following....

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Control Module Part Number: 1C0 959 799 B

Component and/or Version: 3Y Komfortgerát HLO 0004

Software Coding: 00259

Work Shop Code: WSC 73430

Additional Info: 1U6959802D 3Y Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202

Additional Info: 1U6959801D 3Y Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202

Additional Info: 1U0959811D 3Y Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0202

Additional Info: 1U0959812D 3Y Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0202

2 Faults Found:

00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

00943 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

.... i was thinking it was a mechanical fault but now it does look like electrics :(

[jonnycatbiscuit]

took my door apart today, and pulled off the connector that fits to the window regulator/door control module.

It was wet inside. with rusty sludge in the bottom, and the bottom 2 pins (of the 29 there) had rusted off completely.

Bl**dy Skoda garage won't sell me the black control module on its own - "only comes as part of the window regulator mechanism mate" and that's about £185!!!!!

I'll be checking the scrappies tomorrow...

[karlbar2k]

Looking at all those moisture in this /corrossion in that due to moisture - way back in the late 60's /early 70's there was a spray well known to Mini owners with ignition systems allergic to moisture ingress ( possibly all of them I'd have thought) .

Can't remember the name of it ,but it not only repelled moisture ,but applied a plasticy layer around the parts it was sprayed on -sort of sealing damp out - but making it easy (if needed ) to get inside things like dizzy cap .(Ideal solution at the time as the rubber caps tended to hold water in ,rather than keeping it out )

(That is ,of course ,if this stuff still exists .)

Just an idea, to think about .

I believe it was called Dampstart! not like WD40 which would disperse the water but use it to seal electrics once the engine had been run long enought to dry it out. I always used to use it on all the Renaults I had (they didnt like the damp much):thumbdwn:

[Lex Dysia]

You mean this stuff Holts Damp Start 300ml from Halfords Price £2.99

[NuttyP]

Wow, all that stuff from Funkoid - reads like dealer speak for "this is gonna cost you, mate". I'm convincing myself I've got the same prob as jonnycatbiscuit, so am tuned in for further installments. Jonny: do you need any special tools to remove the door card? Y'know, the flat tool that stops you breaking the plastic clips as you detach them from the door. I'm hoping that if I can solve the problem, then judicious use of silicone to prevent the re-ingress of water will avoid a recurrence. Please keep me posted.

[jonnycatbiscuit]

Wow, all that stuff from Funkoid - reads like dealer speak for "this is gonna cost you, mate". I'm convincing myself I've got the same prob as jonnycatbiscuit, so am tuned in for further installments. Jonny: do you need any special tools to remove the door card? Y'know, the flat tool that stops you breaking the plastic clips as you detach them from the door. I'm hoping that if I can solve the problem, then judicious use of silicone to prevent the re-ingress of water will avoid a recurrence. Please keep me posted.

No mate, there's no clips inside the door. It's all held on with screws. I took some pics yesterday so as soon as I get a chance (read as "as soon as I get my kids off the laptop") I;ll post some up of the screw locations

[NuttyP]

No mate, there's no clips inside the door. It's all held on with screws. I took some pics yesterday so as soon as I get a chance (read as "as soon as I get my kids off the laptop") I;ll post some up of the screw locations

:thumbup:That's good news. I've spotted some of them, look like they're small Torx head screws. I only need a Torx drive and dry weather and I may be going in.....

[jonnycatbiscuit]

just be aware of the other hidden screws.

Pop off the tweeter section with a flat blade - there's a cross head screw under there, and the inner (rubbery) bit of the grab handle (the bit behind the window switches) needs to be prised off towards the door panel before you can safely pull the switch panel up (it simply unclips) to reveal three BIG cross head screws.

I think that's all - I'll have a look in a minute

[Funkoid]

Any chance on those pictures jonny