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Quality Issues


dan123

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Changing the valve did not resolve the problem as outlined above. So its back to the drawing board...or rather technical services. Savilles, though helpful are impotent until the techies find the solution. Customer services inform me that all Audi VW dealerships are being contacted to see as to whether this problem has been encountered on their cars. A total mystery...but if its going to happen, it will happen to me. Will keep the board informed. :mad:

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I finally collected my mended Superb last night. Not only does it look gorgeous but other motorists seem to sense its presence on the road, something I never experienced with the Octavia. The 130 engine is also much faster and responsive. I was previously very dissapointed with my Octavias Xenons sharing the concerns of many on here about the short distance range.It appears the Superbs Xenons have been set correctly as the lights lit the avenue up at 1 am this morning with good spread.

After much searching (and 2 sleepless nights for the mechanic) the problem was found in a single wire that ran over the transmission tunnel. It had become kinked during assembly causing a short circuit. After Savilles had found the fault they received an email from a Scottish Skoda dealer reporting an identical problem...and the solution.

Im now off to sit in my black nappa leather seats and learn how to use the satellite navigation. My TomTom Go is now redundant....being transferred the wifes C3.Once again, thanks to Savilles, you were all superb. :):):)

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  • 2 weeks later...
My car is now 16 months old (130 Comfort) and has covered about 35000 miles.

Problems to date;

Boot wouldn't close(bounced back)

Boot lid now stiff to close.

Bonnet pull broke' date=' took 2 full days to repair.

Climate control broke down, 4 full days to repair(including removing the whole dash unit).(Good point;was given a 130PD Octavia as courtesy car)

Seats wearing prematurely

Electric windows failed, then miraculously started working again on the way to the dealer.

Split in air intake(or something like that) leading to snuffling resonance at 1500rpm

Chassis creaks when getting into car.

Controversial this one, constant disagreements with dealer that Superb drivers should always and automatically be given the best courtesy car available.(light blue touch paper and stand back, I'm not joking though, if you drive an 18K car you shouldn't be given a 1.2 Fabia as a coutesy car.)

Rear seat belts lock up in normal use and are hence difficult to use with children or child seats.

Power socket no longer works.

Anyone else have similar experiences? I know 35K miles is a fair few but surely I should expect better durability.[/quote']

Hello I have a 100bhp tdi Superb,same age but with 38000 miles and nothing has gone wrong with it at all.

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Xenons are ****e when not adjusted properly. As inevitably they'll be too low. Dealer should fix that FOC and then they're ace on all models ;)

As for the courtesy car - if you're getting it free, than what's the problem? It also tends to come with some fuel which I have never been charged for.

I've had a Furby PD100 and an Octy Classic. The Octy is higher in range but way, way lower in spec. I wasn't impressed with the ICE in it at all. Octy II is a good step :)

Either way - the way I see it is that the dealer is not obliged to give you a courtesy car. It is an additional service. Some charge for it. Most don't. I'm generally just happy I get a courtesy car so I can get to work and pick my own car back up at the end of the day, rather than having to take a day off work, which would be far more inconvenient to me and the company.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Strange fault list in my Superb. Perrenial sticky boot lid probs. Electric door mirrors both move at same time when adjusting them?? Turbo seems to be gutless in 3rd or 4th gear at fairly low revs, at least more so that when I first had the car. Very boomy at 1500 rpm. Climate control seems to have a mind of its own, very cold at 20 degree setting even when car interior has clearly reached the right temp. A few bits of creaky trim, especially on drivers door, but other than the issues above it is a great car!

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Strange fault list in my Superb. Perrenial sticky boot lid probs. Electric door mirrors both move at same time when adjusting them?? Turbo seems to be gutless in 3rd or 4th gear at fairly low revs, at least more so that when I first had the car. Very boomy at 1500 rpm. Climate control seems to have a mind of its own, very cold at 20 degree setting even when car interior has clearly reached the right temp. A few bits of creaky trim, especially on drivers door, but other than the issues above it is a great car!

According to the handbook (mine's at page 67) the door mirrors are supposed to work that way. It says that it happens when the rotary knob is in the L position, but that is for a LHD car, so would be R for us. So you are supposed to adjust the right one first (which adjusts both) and then when you put it on L it re-adjusts just the left one.

Very odd way of doing things. I wonder if it is a Skoda special or is the same for all VAG cars.

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The turbo won't be doing a lot at 1500 rpm. Rev it a little higher before planting it... How about 2k+ for a diesel, dunno if there is a turbo petrol one but I'd expect 2.5k+ before the turbo really works with you there.

The PD130 in the Furby vRS needs at least 1900 rpm, but if you wanna go fast in the higher gears you'd want 3k+ to continue pulling up that speed.

Must admit adjusting two mirrors 'at the same time' seems bl*dy stupid to me. Not like you can check both at the same time. How odd.

Spotted a few Superbs near Reading the other day, looks like a nice car :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Me lene Miltiadis Kyvernitis, kai meno sto Dubai. Eimai Kypraios omos.

A panayeia mou eisai ellinas. Den pistevo oti to Broskoda exei ennas ellinas mes sta forums.

Prepie na xeries oti den xero na miliso ellinika poly, alla prospatho. Milo Kypiaka pio kalitera :D

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Chassis creaks when getting into car.

Hi, I think I may have the answer to this one - With the car on level ground take the handbrake off and see if it still creaks.

Mine was making some horrible creaking noises when people got in and out particularly the back seats, my local dealer got under the car while i bounced it up and down and was spraying everything he could with WD40 but to no avail, eventually he had a brainwave and said "take the handbrake off" as soon as i had the creak dissapeared (untill you put it on again of course).

apparently it's because rear disc brakes are not very good at holding the car on the handbrake, he reckoned drums were better???

mine also makes a horrible vibrating noise that echoes right through the car sometimes when applying the brakes in reverse. - attributed to the same thing!?

John.

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Hi' date=' I think I may have the answer to this one - With the car on level ground take the handbrake off and see if it still creaks.

Mine was making some horrible creaking noises when people got in and out particularly the back seats, my local dealer got under the car while i bounced it up and down and was spraying everything he could with WD40 but to no avail, eventually he had a brainwave and said "take the handbrake off" as soon as i had the creak dissapeared (untill you put it on again of course).

apparently it's because rear disc brakes are not very good at holding the car on the handbrake, he reckoned drums were better???

mine also makes a horrible vibrating noise that echoes right through the car sometimes when applying the brakes in reverse. - attributed to the same thing!?

John.[/quote']

Mine also has the creaking noise, and that awful noise when braking in reverse. Strange thing is, it normally happens to me when i'm turning as I reverse.

Also, mine had a new air duct fitted a while back under warranty, and was loads quieter. By the time the next service came, it was starting to get noiser, which thye picked up on the service without me mentioning it. Problem is, it seems to be playing up again. Looking at it, it doesn't seem particularly stable, easily moved by hand. Anyone else had the same recurring problem?

All the Best

Chris

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Me lene Miltiadis Kyvernitis' date=' kai meno sto Dubai. Eimai Kypraios omos.

A panayeia mou eisai ellinas. Den pistevo oti to Broskoda exei ennas ellinas mes sta forums.

Prepie na xeries oti den xero na miliso ellinika poly, alla prospatho. Milo Kypiaka pio kalitera :D[/quote']

geia sou re miltara!!!

nai ellinas, meno stin athina..

edo grafane paliotera ki alloi 2-3 ellines

an goustareis, mpes sto www.skodaclub.gr/forum :cool:

P.S. I am sorry guyz about Greeklish.

to be honest I thought I was sending a p.m. :o

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  • 1 year later...

I have a different Superb now to the one I had when I posted back in 2004.

I now have a 55 reg Edition 100 with a PD130 engine.

Mine too is boomy at 1500 revs

No problem with boot lid.

faulty part in electric window mechanism in rear right door - has failed twice now.

Occasional problem with passengers not being able to exit the left rear door (not the child lock!)

Numerous squeaks and rattles. (Most annoying of all the problems, and probably the hardest to sort out :( )

"Lights Failure" message comes up after 6 miles on a smooth surface :confused: (This has been going on since I've had the car). 35 miles on a bumpy road - won't come on at all.

"Brake Lights Failure" - came on for the first time on Friday. Checked brake lights - all ok :confused: Possibly related to "Lights Failure" message.

Clunking noise on steering/suspension when setting off.

Detail disappearing on Sat Nav screen. Also goes blue at some times :confused:

Bonnet release wouldn't pop out of bonnet (fixed)

Think that's it. Not happy with it at all, but I'm pretty much lumbered with it for several years. My 2004 PD 130 Comfort was definately a better car.

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"Lights Failure" message comes up after 6 miles on a smooth surface :confused: (This has been going on since I've had the car). 35 miles on a bumpy road - won't come on at all.

"Brake Lights Failure" - came on for the first time on Friday. Checked brake lights - all ok :confused: Possibly related to "Lights Failure" message.

Hey kprm77, I use to have the same Brake Lights Failure message problemo in my 2002 Octavia L&K..........I check the brake lights and they was OK, So I take out all the brake light bulb to see if they was making a good contac or the contac was corroded and find out that one of the brake light bulb internal incandecent filament (inside the same bulb) was broke but it was making contac so I asume when the car vibrates this filament make and intermitent conection and thats why I got the Brake Lights Failure:rolleyes:

So my advice to you is change all the brake lights bulbs...........They are like four and I am pretty sure this is not expensive:D and maybe it fix that problemo.

Good luck

Isaac

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Mine is an '05 1.9PDT 130 Elegance. Been pretty reliable apart from:

- CD player kept cutting out - eventually replaced entire SatNav head unit under warranty which sorted the problem.

- The Maxidot display displays "Zeilfeurung Nicht Activ" too often

- I have a terrible creak from the headlining around the front of the sunroof on the passenger side of the car.

- The interior driver's door pull, like some other parts of the interior is coated with a thin rubberised film to give it a nice tactile feel, but my knee rests against it and the film just peels right off which makes it look real tatty.

Rob

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1.Mine too is boomy at 1500 revs

2.No problem with boot lid

3."Lights Failure" message comes up after 6 miles on a smooth surface :confused: This has been going on since I've had the car). 35 miles on a bumpy road - won't come on at all.

1. Could be the air inlet pipe on the air box loose, usually a couple of screws sort that.

2. Not suprised, new car should have the updated hinge brackets.

3. I think that maybe related to the xenons (assuming you have them). The bulb failure light will illuminate if there is an issue with the lights and/or thier leveling system. I'd check to see if the innards to the light appreared loose or if the projector part of the lamp looks off centre compared to the other lamp.

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The interior driver's door pull, like some other parts of the interior is coated with a thin rubberised film to give it a nice tactile feel, but my knee rests against it and the film just peels right off which makes it look real tatty.

Rob

Hey Rob, I have the same issue on my 2002 Skoda Octavia L&K. I was thinking that this happend because of the product I use to clean and protect my leather interior.

I have saw the same issue on VW cars:rolleyes:

Isaac

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Well will take heart from the various warranty stats which show Skoda, the Superb &dealers coming out well. Have a friend who's just returned his new Aston Martin V8 because it was totally unreliable (got his money back). Test drove 2 new VW Passats when selecting our car and trim fell off both during test drive! That put us off as did the tacky cheap interior. End of the day just have to hope we don't get the Friday build car. Still can't wait for it to arrive so enthusiasm not dented in any way.

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My new baby (Elegance 2.5) arrives at end of the month and these pages are depressing !!!!!!!!!

Don't get too down, when I started this post it was 2 years ago...surely things have improved now?

Put it this way it didn't put me off Skoda, I now have a new Octavia vRS.

Dan

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Our 55 plate 130 bhp Superb has had only 1 minor problem when the drivers seat electrics failed. Caused by a loose plug under the seat. However I had noticed what I thought was exhaust resonance at certain speeds, but will check the air intake now having seen the previous posts. I bought the Superb to replace a Renault Laguna ll. Nicer car to drive but reliability and cost of repair are attrocious. Look at Parkers Price Guide site forums. There are more entries for the Laguna than any other car. Not one entry for a Skoda. The party trick for the Renault 1.9 diesel is to have turbo failure, this causes the engine to suck up engine oil into the intake, the engine then revs uncontrollably until engine explodes !! If you are quick enough, and stationary, the advice is to try and drop the clutch in top gear with brakes on, to try to stall engine. This will probably save major engine damage but probably wreck the clutch/gearbox. The engine and turbo costs £7000 to replace. Stay with Skodas

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