I've mashed the head of the screw which holds the disc in place.

Any ideas for a good extractor ???

I've seen this JML Screw Extractor from JML Direct

But am slightly dubious of it's claims

I did this on my old polo. In the end I had to drill the screw out and re-tap the thread. Sounds scary but was actually no bother at all and only took 20 mins. Just be sure to chose a drill bit that is at least one size smaller than the screw (so you don't damage the existing thread too much). Once you have drilled you should be able to fold the remains of the screw out with a small screwdriver and finally re-thread (just tidying up the existing thread TBH).

You'll need a basic tap and die set but these are not expensive and you'll be able to use it many times (I never worry to much about investing in tools).

Cheers,

iep

Might be talking tripe here.......but, the screw isn't really of any importance as it's the wheel studs that hold the disc in place, the screw you are on about adds little or no value???

Wouldn't it be okay to just to drill the head off, do want you need to and then just relocate the disc???

Lance, you are correct, the screw is only there to hold the disk in place when the wheel is off the car. In fact, when the screw on my polo got mashed up, I did exactly as you describe.

However, experience then taught me that it is handy to have the screw in place since changing the wheel at night in the ****ing rain at the side of a busy road is all the more difficult if the disk keeps sliding out of alignment. It was after this little learning episode that I drilled out and retapped the thread so I could replace the screw.

So, not essential but handy sometimes.

Cheers,

iep

Lance, you are correct, the screw is only there to hold the disk in place when the wheel is off the car. In fact, when the screw on my polo got mashed up, I did exactly as you describe.

However, experience then taught me that it is handy to have the screw in place since changing the wheel at night in the ****ing rain at the side of a busy road is all the more difficult if the disk keeps sliding out of alignment. It was after this little learning episode that I drilled out and retapped the thread so I could replace the screw.

So, not essential but handy sometimes.

Cheers,

iep

Not something I considered.......good point:thumbup:

You might be able to remove the screw by using an old flat blade screwdriver & a hammer.

Using the screwdriver like a chisel, put it at an angle to the head of the screw & above centre, then tap it round anti-clockwise.I've used this method successfully in the past on other stuff.

Or you could try an Eezi-out, but I've never had much luck with them.

I've mashed the head of the screw which holds the disc in place.

Any ideas for a good extractor ???

I've seen this JML Screw Extractor from JML Direct

But am slightly dubious of it's claims

I have one and it is worse than useless on steel screws.

Mike

Yeah I'd agree with all that!

A previous owner had drilled the heads off my screws, and I left it like it was for about a year and a half, until I came to fit new discs.

Because the heads had been roughly drilled off, I could slip the old discs off first. I then carefully hit the rough end of the screw with a hammer, in order to create a flat. Once it was beaten flat, I could get a centre punch on it accurately. Then just carefully drilled it out. The drill chased alot of the old screw out of the rear of the hole, and the rest could be cleaned out with a tap. After a good clean out, the new screws went straight in. Didn't take long, and was well worth it.

I agree with iep that it's a pain in the butt changing wheels when the retaining screw isn't there! I was very grateful for having the screws in when changing my balljoints and wishbones this weekend.

When you put the new screws in that came with the Brembo discs, make sure you cover them with a shedload of copperslip!

I also changed all my retaining screws for the new Skoda ones, which have a torx head rather than pozi-drive. I find pozi stuff really weak. They mash-up!

How's the rest of the brake change going fatty?

I'll have to post up about what I've been up to this weekend!

drill the old one out & re tap the threads is the best option,as already said its not a difficult job to do,just make sure when you centre punch the old stud that your bang on the centre otherwise when you come to drill it you will be off centre & then you will have problems! i had this problem on a friends new style mini cooper at the weekend,however the disc retaining bolt was the biggest ive ever seen (even bigger than on some of our trucks at work!) took some drilling out etc:) as said above its not critical to not bother with the screw but its recomended to put it back as skoda built it! good luck,just take your time & you will be fine!

I wonder. If the main function of the screws is to stop the discs rotating on the hubs when the wheels are off, could you replace the countersink screws with slot-ended studding?

This happened to me when I done mine, as above really I drilled the head off so the disk came off. Then drilled the center of the screw, I started with a small drill - something like a 3mm then 4mm then i think 5mm or 5.5mm is the largest you can go without touching the thread. I had already removed the other side successfully so just tried each size drill in the hole to see which on fitted. Then tap the thread to remove the old Sh1te.

HTH

P.S patience is the key I found.

How's the rest of the brake change going fatty?

!

I fell at the first lol.

The head on the screw went so I packed up early and lit the barbeque :D

Any one know what size tap I need ???

CHT203 16-Pce Tap & Die Set - Machine Mart

Will this help me ????

Will this help me ????

Probably. At a guess I'd say the screw is going to be either M6 or M8. Always useful to have around anyway.

I'll have to post up about what I've been up to this weekend!

Yes please! I am planning on replacing my front springs in a couple of days. Any tips gratefully received.

I did the same as most and drilled out the old one leaving a bit of the screw as a locator. however i only had this problem on the one side. I've not had any issues when I've had the wheels off with them aslong as your aware of it.

just make sure you get the shims right 1st time!

I have the JML kit and it's OK, but generally with brake disc screws, just try a screwdriver. If that fails, drill the head until it's very thin, and take a big f**ck-off hammer to the disc. Once the disc is clear you can remove the remains of the screw by hand or with pliers.

As others have said, the screw is not critical anyway, but I always buy a set or make sure the discs come with some.

The screw on almost all VAG discs is M6.

Front or rear, this method works for both but is easier for the front.

Take the caliper and carrier off (assuming you have allready anyhow).

Rotate the disc around so the screw is at the front (where the carrier was).

Take a fecking big hammer and twot the front edge of the disc outwards. This will ping the head off the screw and the disc will come off (you can leave a wheel bolt in if your worried about the disc falling off to fast). You can not either get some mole grips on what remains of the screw (its not normally tight as its the head that corrodes in not the thread) of just leave it, the wheel bolts hold it all together anyhow.

Or you could fit a new hub.

I have the JML kit and it's OK, but generally with brake disc screws, just try a screwdriver. If that fails, drill the head until it's very thin, and take a big f**ck-off hammer to the disc. Once the disc is clear you can remove the remains of the screw by hand or with pliers.

As others have said, the screw is not critical anyway, but I always buy a set or make sure the discs come with some.

The screw on almost all VAG discs is M6.

Front or rear, this method works for both but is easier for the front.

Take the caliper and carrier off (assuming you have allready anyhow).

Rotate the disc around so the screw is at the front (where the carrier was).

Take a fecking big hammer and twot the front edge of the disc outwards. This will ping the head off the screw and the disc will come off (you can leave a wheel bolt in if your worried about the disc falling off to fast). You can not either get some mole grips on what remains of the screw (its not normally tight as its the head that corrodes in not the thread) of just leave it, the wheel bolts hold it all together anyhow.

We have a winner !!!!

These ideas seem more my level of skill :rofl::O

Or you could fit a new hub.

Borrax I could :D

We have a winner !!!!

These ideas seem more my level of skill :rofl::O

The first time I changed discs, nearly 20 years ago, I was very concerned about how to get that screw out. Trust me, having done it several times (and I reckon Lummox will have done it many more), a drill and a big hammer works.

The last time was a few months ago on the Lupo. In that case the screw came out easlily, with a screwdriver, but the disc took a big belt.

Hammer FTW!

As regards skill, that's what a professional garage would do anyway

Edited 1 June, 200917 yr by cjb

I have used a centre punch and hammer to drive the screw head round in the past when this has happened. The shock from the hammer blows breaks the corrosion and the point of the punch digs into the screw allowing it to grip and turn it.

Other than that, don't use a screw driver to start with, use an impact driver!

Result ......................

Brake disc retaining screw =0

Me, drill and big hammer and mole grips =1

Cheers lads

Big hammer FTW :)

I usaully just use a brill bit the size of the screw head, drill the head off and use a pair of mole grips to extract the rest of the screw as usually its the presure of it being tightend that makes it hard to get off in the first place so once the pressures off it comes out no problem.

My screw sheared on the front left disc a few days ago. Now under breaking the car shudders at high speed, and low speed feels as if it breaks harder then softer, harder, softer etc as you apply even force to the break.

Reading it seems that the bolt isn't needed, is it worth drilling the screw out, or could this problem be something completely unrelated?

My screw sheared on the front left disc a few days ago. Now under breaking the car shudders at high speed, and low speed feels as if it breaks harder then softer, harder, softer etc as you apply even force to the break.

Reading it seems that the bolt isn't needed, is it worth drilling the screw out, or could this problem be something completely unrelated?

Drill it out, you're wheels hold the discs in place.

It sounds like you have crap stuck on the discs (not warped), try doing a few stops from 70 down to 10 mph.

I guess late night on the Mway would be best for this or on a private road ;)

If you search the site there is a write up on how disc don't warp these days.

HTH