For sedan/liftback You put 1C, for Combi 31.

For sedan/liftback You put 1C, for Combi 31.

 

Thanks, sorry, didn't mention my car details.

 

It's a 2012 model Superb Combi with Xenon and seperate DRL.

I have the following STG9 installed: 1K0 937 087 AB with SW release 651

 

I guess, there will be a different code to be used.

No, the standard is 31.

For sedan/liftback You put 1C, for Combi 31.

 

But surely the code affects other variables including xenon vs. halogen headlights, standard DRL's (2011>) vs. no DRL's (2009>), twin rear foglights, left / right side fog light only etc.

 

This is why when using the code from the Chinese Superb (with standard LED tail lights) on a European spec Superb the DRL's extinguish - because the Chinese Superb's do not have front DRL's.

No, the standard is 31.

 

Ok, could you please explain?

 

31 has the following description:

 31 SK462 Halogen SK462 separat TFL_1 ROM 49 SK462 SK462 halogen separately ROM TFL_1 49

 

There is no Xenon mentioned. Does it mean that there is another hidden setting in the ROM in order to enable Xenon, or does the BCM think that Halogen is installed, even that there is Xenon installed? Probably a seperate Xenon STG which is not controlled by BCM?

 

I just want to make sure, that when I mess around with different codes, that I can revert back to my original setting.

As I wrote before. 31 is OK coding for xenon and halogen lamps as well. The difference between is, when the car has already xenon lights, there in byte 14 bit 3 is ticked (for xenon with shutter). This affect the voltage given to the headlamps - it's not lower than specified limit and there is no strobo effect. My car has xenon as well, nad the coding 31 was OK (until I installed LED rearlights). So don't worry on that - If you have an original Ross-Tech cable in newest version in byte 18 there You can easily take the correct coding from drop-down bar menu.

I have an update on my tries with the LED Rear Lights on a Model 2012 Superb Combi.

 

For testing purposes I only bought the RH Rear Lights (for a RHD car). Reason is that I don't want to change the wiring, as Enriquez mentioned.

This can be confirmed, there is no change in the wiring necessary, since all lights are working (incl. Rear Fogs).

Unfortunately I was not successful to find a working code for Byte 18. I have the BCM 087AB with SW 0651 installed. It seems that there are differences to the new Facelift version 087AN with SW 0771. According to Enriquez, 05 is working well.

So if you don't want to change the wiring, just order the RHD model.

I have tested the following codes::
02, 03, 04, 05, 15, 43, 44, 51, 74, 75, 3F, 8E

The best I could get was that all lights at the back were working, except the Brake Light, which was always dimmed and only Lighted up, when the brake pedal was pressed. Also the DRL was not working at all.

Probably someone can try other codes, who has the same 2012 BCM.

But it is possible that you have to change the BCM in order to get everything running.

So long...

Just fit a set of load resistors, these will clear the blown-bulb warning light on the dash.

 

superj, I was trying ALL possible codings on 087P & 087AB with no success...

so, I guess the only way is to replace the BCM... cost 93 USD.

... or use relay to connect the DRL's

...or fit a set of resistors for $1 USD each!

superj, I was trying ALL possible codings on 087P & 087AB with no success...

so, I guess the only way is to replace the BCM... cost 93 USD.

 

Enriquez, I guess this is the only chance.

 

Could you tell me, where I could get one?

 

I am also a little bit confused. There is the 1K0 937 087 AN listed, but also a sub variant with 1K0 937 087 AN (Z00) which is much more expensive.

 

Do you know, which one is zhe right one?

 

Couly you also tell me, where the BCM is located? Is it easy to access?

 

For configuring it, just remember my old Long Coding, and writing it in the new BCM, then changing Byte 18 to 05?

 

Thanks

This seller has them, just ask him to put into auction:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/vw_group_parts/m.html?item=221273413868&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

 

Replacing is a moderate amount of work, because there is needed to remove the knee airbag unit.

In case of coding, beside You listed, there is need to adapt the remote controllers and set the factory mode OFF.

Thanks Enriquez,

 

Another question.

When I did my tests (with my installed 087AB), I tried only the RH Rear Light (LED version), LH was still the original one. The strange thing is that when I used 05, turned on the lights, only the brake light LED was dimmed, rest was working as it should.

Now the strange thing.

Also on the LH side, where the original Rear Light was still installed, also the Brake Light Bulb was lit (dimmed).

 

This is a strange behavior, cause on the LH side, all bulbs should be off, since they have the right resistance.

 

What do you think?

As I said before - on AB module the effect is different than on AN - just like You describe.

If You don't want to change the BCM You should use a small electronics device using a Zener-type diodes + resistors.

 

The idea is:

- resistors - remove the blown bulb on the dashboard.

- Zener diode 12V - with original coding (31 HEX) the bulbs for STOP and FOG lights are lit with decereased brightness to fit the parking lights. If You fit the LEDs, You need to avoid lighting until You press STOP pedal or switch on a fogs. The voltage for "parking" mode is c.a. 9V. Zener diode should block all the voltage until it reaches 12V and allows the stop LEDS to be ON.

 

Of course some driving transistor should be added, I only described the idea. It's a little cheapest than new BCM, but some people doesn't like non-oem solutions.

 

I hope You understand what I mean.

 

Regarding the brand new BCM - I should report here the issue with power trunk door. After replacing the pull-push mechanism is not working. We intend to go to the dealership for online coding on that, because I did't find the garage solution for that. I'll let You know the result on friday.

 

The BCM in my car wa aftermarket one, from car who has power trunk door, so everything works fine. If You buy BCM like that this issue will not affect You.

In addition:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode

Thanks, yes, that's the only option if not replacing the BCM

 

Do you know if there is a safety diode already built into the BCM on all outputs?

 

Reason is (as discussed in another forum), if you want to have both Fog Lights working, the easiest way is to bridge the two pins (you mentioned), instead of swapping their position on the connectors.

 

In this case, both pins could have an output, if you change back from 05 to 31. If there is a diode built into the BCM, shouldn't be a problem.

Just don't know how to find out without opening the BCM

In that case, You can add external diode

Well, I finally got around to fitting the resistors to my LED rear tail lights today.

 

No coding, no new controller, just a little wire cutting and soldering and hey presto, working LED's and no blown-bulb warning on the dash...

 

 

I used some self adhesive velcro strips stuck to the bodywork to keep the resistors away from the plastic clusters and bumper (they get hot!)...

 

 

All done!

 

 

For all of the PM's.

 

This was how I wired in the resistors...

 

 

I used 50W / 6 Ohm resistors, these ones to be precise...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310224122302?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1287wt_1141

 

The instrctions that came with the resistors advised to use the white wire for the negative, so in the case of these lights that meant white wire to blue wire on the clusters.

 

I didn't use the Scotchloks as the wiring on the back of the cluster is exposed to the elements, instead I cut the wires, soldered the three-way splices and heat-shrunk the joints.

 

As you can see from the photo I had to add some extra length to the wires on each end of the resistors so that I could secure them to the metal bodywork of the car well away from any plastics that could melt. Do not underestimate how hot these resistors get. My soldering iron decided to stop working half way through the job so I had to make a quick dash out to Screwfix for a new one. I deliberately kept my foot on the brake at all of the traffic lights to see how hot the resistors got. More than hot enough to burn your fingers - that's how hot!

 

BLUE wire = negative earth.

RED wire = 12V 4.5W Brake LED's.

BROWN wire = 12V 0.6W Tail/night LED's.

YELLOW wire = 12V PY21W Indicator incandescent bulb.

 

Edited 15 September, 201312 yr by silver1011

One other point I noticed. I'm now not 100% convinced that these tail lights are genuine Skoda China components.

 

The reason being is that they behave differently to those fitted to the UK specification (pre-facelift) Laurin & Klement (L&K) which has LED tail lights fitted as standard. After months of waiting I finally got to follow an L&K along the road. All of the LED's are dual-function i.e. dim for tail lights and then they get brighter for the brake light function. Basically the traditional Skoda "C-Shape" is maintained when the brake lights are on as well as when the tail/night lights are on too. 

 

On the clusters I have only the double layer LED's light up for the brake light function, not the lower single row of LED's.

 

Even more bizarrely the lower single line of LED's only have one level of brightness (brake light brightness) but only come on when the tail/night lights are on...

 

 

Now this worried me at first as I thought that they would therefore be too bright and dazzle other road users and/or reduce the effectiveness of the brake lights, but in reality they don't. I think this is because the brighter lower line of LED's offers similar light output to the double line of LED's at reduced brightness creating a consistent "C-Shape" of light.

 

I know photos aren't perfect for showing light output but this photo show's just the tail/night lights. The lower single strip of LED's is at brake light brightness but you really can't tell (in the picture or in real life)...

 

 

This may be just how they are set-up to work on the Superb in China, but I'm not so sure. One thing is for sure; they are good quality and as far as I can see are identical to the UK versions.

 

Either way I'll probably start saving up for the genuine UK lights and replace them at some point as I have an OCD for all mods being 100% OEM. I won't be able to sleep knowing that not all the LED's light up for the brake light function  .

 

If anyone wants to avoid the hassle of sourcing their own set from China and buying and wiring in the resistors I may sell these to fund a new set. I've a few other things to sell so will be signing up for FREEDOM - watch this space!

Edited 15 September, 201312 yr by silver1011

I struggle with the resistors since they can become really hot and probably melt the plastic.

OEM Facelift set of lamps for sedan:

 

http://allegro.pl/skoda-superb-2013-sedan-led-oryginal-nowe-i3548254394.html

 

I'm affraid they will not fit :(

Edited 15 September, 201312 yr by Enriquez

Enriquez,

 

Does this seller also sell the genuine Skoda pre-facelift LED lights for the sedan?

I struggle with the resistors since they can become really hot and probably melt the plastic.

 

This is why it is important to mount them in a place where there is no chance they can come into contact with any plastic components...