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If its not overly noisy I'd leave the chain personally. You'll be doing an oil and filter change though of course :)

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er, yeah :o that too.

Isn't the 1.3 a pushrod OHV engine? In which case the timing drive goes nowhere near the cylinder head!

You will be needing a piece of cardboard to keep the pushrods in the right order though.

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Yup push rod,

Well the top end kit from York Factors is £29.19 all in. And if all goes well with my change, we can look at sorting your's another weekend.

Cool. Thanks!

And yeh wouldn't bother with timing chain. As said you go no where near it when doing the head gasket and it will rattle along for a lot more miles than that!

Phil

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Just looked at the haynes manual, and I "might" be-able to get away with not removing the intake and exhaust manifolds. However, I'll only know this on sat when I come to try and disconnect the exhaust mani from the down pipe.

Ah yeh... I wouldn't hold your breath...

When I changed the exhaust/inlet manifold gasket I couldn't separate the manifold from the down pipe so removed it from the cat end to help me remove it enough.

It is an absolute buggar of a job to get the exhaust manifold off in my experience and will require a large mallet and screwdriver to dislodge it enough to get it off.

Might be worth doing while your at it as I change mind at about 80,000 and was quite badly worn and there were several holes in the exhaust side with lots of black deposits and had been blowing a fair bit.

Phil

They are not stretch bolts on the head. Be careful as the bores are wet liners and they must not be moved. Don't turn the engine over with the head removed, unless the liners are clamped down, don't lift the head vertically to break the seal, leave a bolt in and rotate it around that a little.

There may be a lock hole on the crank pulley?

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Just for you guys, here's the evidence of leakage;

30357.attach

30358.attach

when you have the head off & are cleaning the block face make sure you blow out the holes where the head bolts go into,if their full of old coolant & muck the bolts will hydraulic on the coolant in the holes & will not be tightend correctly.if you head does need skiming i use bernard at "best enginering" on the raylor estate off james street in york! if this is the engine im thinking it is(OHV,with pushrods etc) it should be a nice easy job to do!:thumbup:

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Thanks for the recommendation Mikey, luckly with my dad being an engineer for Holbeiger, I have access via him to just about any machinery/skills I need.

must be head gasket week at mo,ive just pulled the head off one of our army landrovers today! hope you have better luck with yours.....this is the 10th land rover ive done this year & all have had a cracked head!:eek: glad im not paying!!!!:Ddid a head gasket last month on one of our 32ton army trucks......took 3 of us to lift head off!!!:rofl:

Danny, do post up picture by picture guide mate :)

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Will do Len

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must be head gasket week at mo,ive just pulled the head off one of our army landrovers today! hope you have better luck with yours.....this is the 10th land rover ive done this year & all have had a cracked head!:eek: glad im not paying!!!!:Ddid a head gasket last month on one of our 32ton army trucks......took 3 of us to lift head off!!!:rofl:

Wolf HS or the old 110s ?

wolf hs.....tdi 300 as in defenders & discos!.......done a couple of discos too! looks like its a common problem!

Yeah, pay close attention to the advice given above about the liners - you really don't want to disturb them. As long as you don't lift the head straight up, you should be OK, but as already said, sliding it sideways/rotating it a bit will help, although all the ones I've done have come off without a problem

BUT

you definitely will NOT get away with rotating the engine unless you clamp the liners down (which is easily done with a square plate washer and a M10x60 bolt), but if you're just changing the gasket, no need to turn it over really.

Skim the head, clean the block and liner faces up neatly with a stanley knife blade, and torque the head up properly (I've re-used some sets of bolts 3 times, they're deffo not stretch!) - one thing I do is re-check the stage 1 torque as the middle bolts slack off a bit, and leave it for half an hour to settle and re-torque before doing the next 2 stages (both of which are angular, 90 degrees, so you can't re-do them). Job done.

As for the manifolds, never had a problem getting them off, aside from rusty downpipe bolts, but that's the case on just about every car!

Don't mess about with the timing chain while doing this - two reasons; firstly there's no need if it's not alarmingly loud, and secondly do ONE THING AT A TIME - otherwise you may do something nasty, like turn the engine over and move the liners.

it's worth putting a dab of copper grease on the end of the thread of the bolts and under the heads of the bolts/nuts too... make sure the threads on the bolts are nice and clean before you use them too...

be careful that the fuel supply hose doesn't spit at you due to residual pressure when you take it off too..

and above all else, make sure you disconnect the negative battery lead before you start work

be careful that the fuel supply hose doesn't spit at you due to residual pressure when you take it off too..

You could remove the fuel pump fuse then start the engine. It will stop one the fuel in the lines has been used and they won't be pressurized then.

Our last house viewing is at 12:30 so will probably be there about 1:30 - 2:00.

Phil

oooh oooh i've thought of something else.. it might be worth flushing the radiator too in case there's any sludge in there... depending on how bad the gasket is of course:O

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Job done, all sorted and I found a sepearate leak from the thermostat housing. The gasket was quite corroded so glad I did it. Although I may have jumped too a bit of big conclusion; considering the leaking I found from the second source may have been the leak seen on the pictures.

Oh well at least the motor has a new gasket and I could check the state of the head. Which isn't very good. The head isn't warped at all, but there is some corrosion of the top edge which you'll see in the pics once they're of my phone.

Phil, thanks for popping down, good to see you. Hope the bacon sarnies don't repeat on you ;)

Edited by auroan

Nice one Danny :)

Gald you got it sorted without major issues :)

I thought this was a thread about Valentino Rossi.

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