I'm a little late to this thread , but I'll add my voice to the "avoid a DPF" camp.

Your journeys are most likely to cause problems and plenty of manufacturers have had issues with the DPF on cars that *are* driven on longer journeys.

Theres still the 2.0 PD140 around (as said) and its DPF free

I'm a little late to this thread , but I'll add my voice to the "avoid a DPF" camp.

Your journeys are most likely to cause problems and plenty of manufacturers have had issues with the DPF on cars that *are* driven on longer journeys.

i have covered 77000 miles in 32 months and have had the light on once. That's cos I was crawling round Whipsnade.

I think however some cars suffer more, pretty much like any identical cars, some will be more problematic than others.

Don't let the DPF put you off, the car is very very quick and achieves a decent mpg. The DPF also makes sure the back of the car stays nice and clean as no soot passes out of the back. The chrome pipes of the exhaust also remain very clean.

Also a Remap will put the car easily above 200bhp and be even faster.

Problem for me is the engine would barely be warm before I get to work and it's mostly 20-30 mph. Not good for regen.

I definitely would not be put off by DPF if I had a longer/higher speed journey to work. However, I'm so glad I eventually found out about DPF before buying based on my type of driving - I think people looking at diesels with DPF (all manufacturers, not just Skoda) should be made more aware about what it really means in order to make sure it really would suit the driving they do.

My DPF-less Ibiza does get very sooty at the back which is a pain. But on the other hand, it's quite a good thing when someone tailgates - put your foot down and it cleans your exhaust out all over their car

My DPF-less Ibiza does get very sooty at the back which is a pain. But on the other hand, it's quite a good thing when someone tailgates - put your foot down and it cleans your exhaust out all over their car

I found it also handy to have it debadged, now from the back it could be: 2.0, 2.0TFSI, 3.2 Quattro and the 170 TDI

Just got back from driving out of paris which took one and half hours in a 170 pd touran with a DPF. i was a bit woried after reading this but had no problems

As for fuel consumption it was averaging 20 mpg until got out of paris and got to above 50 mpg by the time got back to Tewkesbury

I'd go with the PD140 and get it remaped if yuo want VRS power, switchable if under warantee - £350 to £400, 180+BHP + 390nm is easy.

A low milage 2nd hand motor should be a good buy.

I do a lot of short journeys and less than 5k mile per year and would never touch a DPF motor

Unless you do intergalatic mileage I would go for the TFSI. It's more fun to drive and a bit quicker through the gears. At motorway speeds in gear there's nothing between them though.

/\ Not sure I agree with that - you don't need to be a sales rep doing 300,000 miles a year for a diesel to make sense. It's the economical choice even if you do roughly average mileage which I believe used to be around the 12k mark? If you do the math, even with the extra cost of the diesel you break even with the petrol at about the 2 year mark with the VED, (marginal) insurance and fuel savings based on 12k a year. As most tend to own cars for 3 years or more then the initial extra cost is paid back at the 2 year mark and then you're saving money from then on afterwards.

With the CR as well the gap is not as wide as it's very quiet, smooth and petrol like to drive, albeit lacking in revs, and 45mpg driving normally (not like a nun that's for sure) makes it a very good choice.

The TFSI is more the keen drivers choice though and less of a compromise as it's still torquey and pretty good on fuel for a turbo petrol.

DPF wise though, mine's only done a regen 3 times since owning it and it's been weeks since the last one. If you spend that much time just sitting in traffic, buy a bicycle.....or a G-Wizz. You sure as hell can't use the 'extra go' of the TFSI sat on the M25.

EDIT - I used this just now http://www.which.co.uk/advice/petrol-v-diesel/index.jsp to work it out. Specifying that the TDI costs £1500 more than the petrol, gives 45mpg with the petrol giving 30mpg (accurate from what I've seen people commenting on here), doing £12k a year and with diesel being 105p a litre and petrol (97RON) being 110 a litre which is about what I see at the local rip off....I mean fuel station (Sainsbury's - not Shell etc). This gives the 2 year figure and that's not taking the VED savings into account either which are even more on the CR as it's £125 PA.

Edited 14 November, 200916 yr by Chrispy

/\ Not sure I agree with that - you don't need to be a sales rep doing 300,000 miles a year for a diesel to make sense. It's the economical choice even if you do roughly average mileage which I believe used to be around the 12k mark? If you do the math, even with the extra cost of the diesel you break even with the petrol at about the 2 year mark with the VED, (marginal) insurance and fuel savings based on 12k a year. As most tend to own cars for 3 years or more then the initial extra cost is paid back at the 2 year mark and then you're saving money from then on afterwards.

With the CR as well the gap is not as wide as it's very quiet, smooth and petrol like to drive, albeit lacking in revs, and 45mpg driving normally (not like a nun that's for sure) makes it a very good choice.

The TFSI is more the keen drivers choice though and less of a compromise as it's still torquey and pretty good on fuel for a turbo petrol.

EDIT - I used this just now Petrol v diesel - Your car - Which? Advice to work it out. Specifying that the TDI costs £1500 more than the petrol, gives 45mpg with the petrol giving 30mpg (accurate from what I've seen people commenting on here), doing £12k a year and with diesel being 105p a litre and petrol (97RON) being 110 a litre which is about what I see at the local rip off....I mean fuel station (Sainsbury's - not Shell etc). This gives the 2 year figure and that's not taking the VED savings into account either which are even more on the CR as it's £125 PA.

Looking at DTD price, the real world difference between CR and TFSI is £700 when new.

I will save about £1000 a year with my new FL CR VRS against my current car, Focus ST 2.5ltr turbo petrol

I get 31mpg which is very good for a ST, I'm estimating 50mpg for CR170 as cruise control helps a bit with fuel economy. IIRC this means £800 saving a year

Insurance will go from £375 to £300 and VED from £215 to £150

Looking at DTD price, the real world difference between CR and TFSI is £700 when new.

I will save about £1000 a year with my new FL CR VRS against my current car, Focus ST 2.5ltr turbo petrol

I get 31mpg which is very good for a ST, I'm estimating 50mpg for CR170 as cruise control helps a bit with fuel economy. IIRC this means £800 saving a year

Insurance will go from £375 to £300 and VED from £215 to £150

So with the cost difference being even smaller the amount of mileage you need to do to break even and then start saving is even less. Going from a 35mpg BMW petrol to the 45mpg Fabia VRS I started saving money straight away - I immediatly had more in my account at the end of every month and that was with loan and insurance payments being about the same. Then when it came to tax I saved a packet.

Also, VED on the CR TDI is £125 not £150.

If I did very little commuting etc and only wanted a car for personal use and fun then no doubt I'd have got the petrol as money really wouldn't have come into it at all, but its wonderful getting 500 miles out of a tank as it means I can enjoy the car without staring at the fuel gauge.

As for the DPF being a problem, on the CR I imagine soot emissions are already quite low and so it will not have much work to do. This hopefully means greater longevity.

The car is still more than quick enough and very good on fuel meaning I can have my cake and eat it. Then when I get bored I can simply map it.

If you're buying a CR, they only come from 58 plate onwards anyway I think so you'll have plenty of warranty should anything happen. I wouldn't worry about it.

Cheers everyone for all your input.

For me, the CR TDi was not worth the risk - it was a risk for the driving I do. Since I only do about 8k miles a year, it wasn't worth the potential problems - especially when it's quite clear from the brochure and on t'net that it may not suit people with a certain driving style. Typical regeneration stats would be good in my opinion (e.g. "typically, regeneration is needed every x miles and takes on average y minutes") - that may not be something that's possible/too many variables etc etc but without an idea, it's very difficult to assume/get confidence it would all be ok for mainly urban/stop-start driving.

So, in the end I went with the petrol - signed, sealed and delivered (in March)

Glad you've made your decision mate, you'll love the VRS when it arrives.

8k is below average mileage and if you do the sort of driving that "doesn't suit the TDI" then the petrol is a sensible choice.

I think the point we were trying to make earlier is that everyone assumes you need to be doing mega mileage to save money on a diesel over a petrol. You don't, but if you do quite low mileage (8k is low) then the choice is perfectly up to engine preference as opposed to economics.

Glad you've made your decision mate, you'll love the VRS when it arrives.

8k is below average mileage and if you do the sort of driving that "doesn't suit the TDI" then the petrol is a sensible choice.

I think the point we were trying to make earlier is that everyone assumes you need to be doing mega mileage to save money on a diesel over a petrol. You don't, but if you do quite low mileage (8k is low) then the choice is perfectly up to engine preference as opposed to economics.

Cheers. Yep, I get your point about the mega mileage, diesel vs petrol debate...it is one I share having been a diseasel-head for the past 5 years. For me, it's the other way round - it's not doing high mileage that drives the move to diesel, but more that low mileage allows you to consider performance-petrols more as the effect of fuel economy etc is not as big.

Cheers. Yep, I get your point about the mega mileage, diesel vs petrol debate...it is one I share having been a diseasel-head for the past 5 years. For me, it's the other way round - it's not doing high mileage that drives the move to diesel, but more that low mileage allows you to consider performance-petrols more as the effect of fuel economy etc is not as big.

You sound like you've got your head screwed on and have thought about your decision quite well.

I thought too about the petrol instead of the diesel, and if the CR wouldn't have been around I'd have got the petrol for sure as the PD is a tad too noisy for me. I got sick of the clatter from the Fabia towards the end and was willing to sacrifice some mpg to have a quiet car again.

But DPF wise, I could spend a couple of hours cleaning the Fabia, go down the road and then find a film of grey soot stuck to the back. The DPF on the Octy means I get none of this although time will tell how reliable it is on the CR.

Also, VED on the CR TDI is £125 not £150.

.

Yes, but :)

VED is £125 for VRS manual but £150 for DSG auto as different CO2 ratings

I've taken my DPF off Today, I'm going to cut a hole with a 4" thin-cut disc, remove the internals, and MIG it closed tomorrow !!

Then on Monday morning it's booked in to get the DPF mapped out, and jizzed up a bit

Cost £250 .

(4 Hours work removing DPF, removing internals and refitting..... I will be posting a thread on it when i get it finished )

Don't let the DPF ruin the Diesel Poke !!

Then on Monday morning it's booked in to get the DPF mapped out, and jizzed up a bit!!

Sorry,can't help it...

Sorry,can't help it...

:rofl::rofl::rotz::rotz::rofl::rofl:

@Slimady

Good to hear you go for the Petrol.... if you are really mostly doing short commutings you are bound to get DPF-problems.... and replacing it will be >1000 pounds

@Slimady

and replacing it will be >1000 pounds

Have Mine Sorted For A Fraction Of The Cost

All I'l Say Is "Custom Code & Milltek Think They Have A Manopoly On The DPF Issue . . .. . Most Definetly Not !! "

By Selling The Replacement Pipe Along With A Remap, These Two Companies Think They Have It Sown Up...

Yesterday I Had My Car Remapped & Adjusted To Avoid Looking For DPF Backpressure. The Guy That Did This Has Also Cracked The CR 170 And Is The First In Both ROI & UK To Do This, Custom Codes Haven't Even Started Looking At Them !!

The same indiviudal maps racing cars throughout ROI & UK and was refused by Milltek to be able to purchase a replacement pipe on it's own as they had signed an exclustivity deal with custom codes over the DPF issue.

So i said fair enough , i'll sort it myself and Milltek can stick their poxy pipe up their own pipe !!

To Modify OEM DPF (Pics Will Follow I Need A Micro SD Card Reader)

Tools :

Spanners: 13mm, 17mm, 22mm

Sockets: 13mm

Allen Keys: 5mm

Torx: T30, T25, T20

4" Thin Cut Disc

Mig Welder

Hammer

Chisel

Mask

Gloves

Method:

Engine Bay

1: Remove Heat Shield Material From Around The Sensor Control Unit

2: Loosen Sensor Control Unit Via 2 T25's , this will free up room for you to work

3: Remove Sensor 1 (i.e. nearest to Turbo) 17mm Spanner

4: Remove Sensor 2 22mm Spanner

5: Loosen Sensor 3 17mm Spanner (Cannot fully remove just yet as Sensor 4 has to loosened first)

Underneath Car

6:Lossen Sensor 4 17mm Spanner (Both Sensors 3&4 can be removed)

7: Undo and remove Undertray ( this frees up a lot of room)

8: Undo the two DPF mounting bolts (located near front right drive shaft) 13mm Socket

9: Loosen exhaust joint (about two thirds back the length of the car) 13mm Spanner

Engine Bay

10: Undo Joining Clip From Turbo 5mm Allen Key (also watch for the little gasket thats inside the flange of the turbo)

11: Relocate the previously removed sensors 1,2,3 so that they are clear from the DPF when it is being removed

Removing DPF Pipe

12: If car is over a pit then jack up the front drivers side to drop the srive shaft and create more room for extraction

13: If car is on Two post lift then continue regardless, the drives will have dropped as far as they can.

Underneath Car

14: Remove DPF section By letting removing it from its mounting bracket (8: mounting bolts removed) The Pipe will now drop down into the cavity

15: Remove Section

BenchWork

16: On The surface of the DPF that faces the engine block, mark out the area for cutting. I suggest keeping this as large as possible , so i marked it approx 20mm in from either end. This will make it easier to remove the Filtering Material

17: Cut section 4" Thin Cut Disc

18: Put on mask & gloves

19: The inside of the DPF is conctructed of a porous charcoal stone like composite material. Using the Hammer And Chisel Reove the Filter. It'l take a bit of elbow grease to initially break it up, but once it starts to break up, it's easy.

20: The Inside Of the DPF will be as clean as a whistle now. Using Wire wool , cleamn the soot from arounf the inlet and make sure all loose material is removed. (I used an air line)

21: Tac the Cut section in place

22: Mig Weld

23: Reinstall as per instructions 14 - 1

24: THEN Bring to the software technician of your choice And ask then to kindly map out the sensors

Then gentleman i go to not only mapped out the sensors, but remapped it properly to 210 for me at no extra cost as it only took him an extra half an hour !! He also improved the torque band making the car pull more evenly throughout the revs. 6th gear is unbelievable !!

I Cannot Recommend This Man Enough, He Is Always Over And Back Between The UK & ROI

Chipped Ireland - Homepage

Edited 17 November, 200916 yr by tom1362

I'm hoping to call to this guy in the next few months - great to hear yet another positive review. Getting insurance above board is probably going to be a bigger problem...

I'm hoping to call to this guy in the next few months - great to hear yet another positive review. Getting insurance above board is probably going to be a bigger problem...

I get 31mpg which is very good for a ST

:jawsmall:

My previous car was a ST , only ever got that MPG once on a long motorway trip. Typically got 23-26mpg or high 10's when giving it some. That was Dreamscienced upto around 270bhp.

I moved to a 2007 PD170 vRS which has since been Bluefin mapped to around 200bhp.

The CO2 output is slightly higher than the CR so it's one higher. Don't remember the ST being that high on tax as it was band F = £225. Even the RS is in the same band.

I see an average of 40mpg from my VRS, 46mpg on the motorway or 35mpg around town. That hasn't changed at all since the remap and if it wasn't for the fact that I got the PD for a give away price I would have gone for the petrol, so looks like you made the right choice.

As for insurance , Sky Insurance gave me the best price by far again this year.