Hi i have had a look at changing the front speakers now ideally i want to keep the connector on there but how do i wire a new set of speakers into this or is the olny way to cut the connector off but there are 4 wires and not sure how i would need to connect these up i want to keep the tweeters as i am just going to replace them with the new set i have.

You will need to cut the connector off if you want to use any descent aftermarket speakers. Then replace the big chunky connector with the correct sized connections crimped or soldered onto the oem wiring.

Hi i have had a look at changing the front speakers now ideally i want to keep the connector on there but how do i wire a new set of speakers into this or is the olny way to cut the connector off but there are 4 wires and not sure how i would need to connect these up i want to keep the tweeters as i am just going to replace them with the new set i have.

You'll have to remove the OE connectors and crimp / solder new ones on as Manny says. If you remove the door speaker you should see 2 x connectors on the speaker. 1 x Connector is for the speaker and 1 x connector is for the tweeter. Remove the tweeter assembly from the door and disconnect. Then do a continuity check across each terminal in turn to find out which is which.

Just a tip but make sure you get speakers that fit in the door recess without any probs. Otherwise you'll have to remove the door panel etc which is a total pain in the ar5e. Hence why mine is still in bits at the moment :(

You'll have to remove the OE connectors and crimp / solder new ones on as Manny says. If you remove the door speaker you should see 2 x connectors on the speaker. 1 x Connector is for the speaker and 1 x connector is for the tweeter. Remove the tweeter assembly from the door and disconnect. Then do a continuity check across each terminal in turn to find out which is which.

Just a tip but make sure you get speakers that fit in the door recess without any probs. Otherwise you'll have to remove the door panel etc which is a total pain in the ar5e. Hence why mine is still in bits at the moment :(

So do i connect 2 wires of the 4 when i chop the plug off into one crimp and 2 into the other and then connect that to the speaker or would you advis a different way

Sounds good to me as long as the two wires you are crimping together are the same colour.

Kenwood custom fit speakers come with a little adaptor that plugs onto the factory wiring.

Might be worth looking at these if you don't want to get busy with the scissors

If you don't want to keep the standard speakers you could try cutting the female bit of the connector out of the speaker basket then trim it and solder on some flying leads. I don't know whether this is possible with Skoda speakers, i've never had the standard ones out, but it worked well with my Saxo.

So do i connect 2 wires of the 4 when i chop the plug off into one crimp and 2 into the other and then connect that to the speaker or would you advis a different way

Depends on the speakers you get, if you get a component set then connect the 4, the other 2 drive the tweeter at the top of the door.

If you go 2 way on the other hand, you only need to connect the 2 wires that come from the headunit.

is there an autoleads spacer available for the front 6.5" speakers or will i have to fabricate my own? i'm trying to fit my KEF midbass in but they are a little too deep. has anyone ever cut the metal behind the door card?

Why not just solder on a new set of connectors 1 inch down from the factory connector ??

is there an autoleads spacer available for the front 6.5" speakers or will i have to fabricate my own? i'm trying to fit my KEF midbass in but they are a little too deep. has anyone ever cut the metal behind the door card?

i hacked a chunk of metal off from behind the speaker. no problems so far apart from the doors bending and then falling off during low bass moments!

...you can safely remove a small chunk of the metal behind the door with no consequences. There's a small bit of overhang that serves no purpose at all.

it looks like it supports the window runner? surley taking this out will result in problems with my electric windows?

i might just make some kick builds and do the job right