Octavia vRS cold idle problem

[dmramsey87]

Hi my octavia rs seems to idle fine when started up when cold, but as soon as I drive off it stutters, and engine feels like it wants to stall. Just spoke to a skoda dealer and they said it's a error 17705, yet there is no fault codes come up. Now they have replaced two of the vaccum pipes underneath top engine cover. They say the next things to replace would be throttle housing and air intake system. Also when driving this morning I notices the temp gauge dropping a tiny bit from 90 degrees then going up again! Alot of people on here seem to suggest it's the secondary air pump that could be causing this. I left car to idle for a minute or so before driving off and it was fine.

[David 8]

Just leave it one minute like you say, theres nothing majorly wrong, some RS's do this some don't, it's one of lifes great mysteries to be honest.

Got to laugh when your dealer said it's a 17705 code and yet theres no codes, how do they work that one out I wonder.

As for your gauge, it sounds like your thermostat is on the blink, theres a few threads running about this at the moment, have a search.

Seems like they are all giving up this winter

[dmramsey87]

I know mate, I don't think dealer knows whas wrong lol. Might aswell investigate myself. You say my thermostat may be on blink, would that be the coolant temperature sensor or something else? Maybe you mean thermostat next to waterpump or oil temp stat? Not sure which one it wud be lol. Octavia is driving me crazy. My dad got one frm brand new and his had few things wrong with it. His roadspeed sensor and coolant temp sensor went and has just replaced a coil pack lol

[David 8]

I would say the Stat (near the water pumpish lol)as when my temp sensor went it was shooting up and down from cold to 90 in a split second.

My stat is palying up atm and just drops below 90 then creeps back up again. Just like yours

HTH

[Gonzaga]

I have the same problem like you, in the morning when the engine is cold car starts without no problem but soon as I drive off it starts to stutter, I get the "rodeo" feeling...

I have replaced the fuel filter a week ago and the problem seems to went away but I am not 100% sure.

[dmramsey87]

Alot of other threads seem to point to secondary air system, so I might check that out. I've had 2 vacuum hoses replaced by skoda dealer. Trouble is there is no fault codes come up on EMS

[dmramsey87]

Does anyone know what could be causing the cold start stuttering on my car. Apart from the secondary air pump I'm looking for clues to what it could be. Has anyone cured a similar problem like mine on there own vrs?

[mikey vrs]

Mine does this & has done for the 2 years ive owned it,as said before just leave it ticking over until the secondary air pumps shuts off & it will be fine!

[David 8]

It really is that simple.

Just leave it run until the pump has done it's thing (1 min roughly)

Mine used too do it from time to time, and I couldn't tell you what cured it if I'm honest.

Don't worry it's just a trait of the engine, now get out there and enjoy the car :D

[chicken_eyebrow]

What is it with our thermostats all giving up the ghost this winter!?

I just got the parts through to do mine from AVS, £30 all in for the stat, o-ring and two bottles of G12++ coolant, not bad when Skoda quoted me £23 for just the stat !!

[David 8]

What is it with our thermostats all giving up the ghost this winter!?

I just got the parts through to do mine from AVS, £30 all in for the stat, o-ring and two bottles of G12++ coolant, not bad when Skoda quoted me £23 for just the stat !!

It must the age of them, theres been a few lately

[dmramsey87]

Would replacing the rivets on the secondary air pump fix the cold start idle problem? I have access to a ramp as my dad works at kwik fit. Is it because the secondary air pump is allowing extra air in causing unmetered air into the system?

[David 8]

I don't think you're getting the point

Nothing that we know of will fix it as such

There may be a fix but who knows.

If the secondry air pump is sounding like concord on take off then it needs the rivets replacing. But if it sounds like like a normal fan sound it's fine.

How long are leaving it before driving off in the mornings ???

p.s. In the summer it will probably be fine as the air temp is higher requiring less fuel on cold start, so its probably too do with too much fuel some how, like I say who knows

HTH

[dmramsey87]

Well I'm gona look into it and see if I can solve it. Like I said my dad has a vrs and his is fine. Just had two vac hoses replaced as it was loosing power. Just hope I still don't lose power again. Just rather annoying really lol

[David 8]

Best of luck ........

You could either spend the next however many months looking for and finding nothing wrong. You'll spend money on parts that arn't broke and end up no better off.

Or

You could just wait one minute before driving off and save yourself the ball ache and money. It's one minute in the morning

Its you choice and your car mate, but knowing what I know about this issue I think your wasting your time as we have told you the "cure". Have a search on here and you'll come up with same cure as I have suggested.

I don't think too my knowledge that anyone has found the magic cure and belive me there been a fair few threads about this problem

p.s. the vac hoses are nothing too do with this issue, correct they will make you lose power but when they were replaced your power was returned but your car had this problem still

p.s.s I would get the thermostat fixed first,

[David 8]

Heres one about the air pump, good description of the sound for you http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/145790-blowingfarting-noise-when-started-from-cold/page__p__1825791__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry1825791

Hers one about cleaning the throttle body which may cure the 17705 you havn't got according too your dealer ??? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/115516-light-throttle-hesitation-flat-spot-fixed/page__p__1451546__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry1451546

And here some about the old cold start thing

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/146961-cold-running-issues/page__p__1837338__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry1837338

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/104407-mk1-vrs-running-lumpy-at-cold-for-60-seconds/page__p__1301621__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry1301621

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/95487-poor-running-on-cold-start-ideas/page__p__1176028__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry1176028

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/77064-rough-idle-worst-cold-fine-after-2000-rpm/page__p__935565__hl__cold%20start__fromsearch__1entry935565

The answers are the same every time mate

HTH

[dmramsey87]

Thanks for all the help, the main thing was at least having the vac hoses replaced as they were split so that would of caused a power loss. I can live with leaving it to idle for a minute, but as I havnt driven the car that much as I'm working away it's hard to diagnose the problem. Certainly will check air filter, spark plugs, coil packs and sec air pump.

[Land_Raver]

Hi,

Try cleaning the throttle body, it worked for me after putting up with the same problems for 18 months of ownership,

Nick

Thanks for all the help, the main thing was at least having the vac hoses replaced as they were split so that would of caused a power loss. I can live with leaving it to idle for a minute, but as I havnt driven the car that much as I'm working away it's hard to diagnose the problem. Certainly will check air filter, spark plugs, coil packs and sec air pump.

[KenONeill]

Further to the over-fuelling point, that's quite plausible in principle. It's been well-known since the days of carbs or carbs or, oh carbs, that over-choking an engine causes it to run rough (if you can get it started at all). The basic problem is that the excess fuel dampens the plugs, and weakens the spark, which causes late combustion, and hence a misfire.

What could be happening is that sometimes and/or on some cars the cold enrichment stays on longer than on others, but as to why this happens, I honestly don't think anyone knows well enough to say "change the umpah gubbins".

Edited 12 February, 2010 by KenONeill

[David 8]

That sounds plausible Ken.

As you say though it's a tough one, If waht your saying applies then it's down too the mapping I guess as this would control that side of things

[karlbar2k]

Mine has started almost cutting out if I try and pull off the drive :( I used to be one of the lucky ones that never had this issue but I have been messing around looking at installing the TIP but I am certain that it happened the day before I took it off as well, but not sure if de-finning the airbox would have caused it so I guess I will be cleaning the TB tomorrow when I install the new pipe and check valve

[iansblackvrs]

Hi my octavia rs seems to idle fine when started up when cold, but as soon as I drive off it stutters, and engine feels like it wants to stall. Just spoke to a skoda dealer and they said it's a error 17705, yet there is no fault codes come up. Now they have replaced two of the vaccum pipes underneath top engine cover. They say the next things to replace would be throttle housing and air intake system. Also when driving this morning I notices the temp gauge dropping a tiny bit from 90 degrees then going up again! Alot of people on here seem to suggest it's the secondary air pump that could be causing this. I left car to idle for a minute or so before driving off and it was fine.

Mine did this for ages Octy vrs AUQ engine. Ignore the secondary air pump..that causes other problems not related to yours. Take off the throttle housing and give it a good clean with Wynns carb cleaner and a soft toothbrush, theres many guides on here to do this. Guarantee this will cure the cold start running problem. Needs to be done once a year. Crap buils up around the throttle butterfly and it blocks the air flow. Hold it up to the light and look down the barrel, you should see an even ring of light coming through around the butterfly like a halo. This air flow is your cold start/choke on etc so the air flow is critical. Ignore the scare mongers regarding disconnecting the wiring to the throttle motor, as long as your ignition is off and key OUT you will not have a problem and you can wedge the throttle butterfly open with a piece of wood or a paint brush handle so you can clean around the edge of the choke flap. Use cotton buds dipped in carb cleaner. Just dont let it spring shut on your finger. Trust me it will be like a new car again.Ps as a last resort try looking at the coolant temperature sensor, the 4 pin green one is 059919501A....a 2 minute job to replace and this can cause the cold start idle to run funny as it thinks the water is hot so it changes the fuel mixture and makes it run lean/ you want it running rich when the water is cold.

Edited 3 May, 2010 by iansblackvrs

[britbird51]

Mine did this for ages Octy vrs AUQ engine. Ignore the secondary air pump..that causes other problems not related to yours. Take off the throttle housing and give it a good clean with Wynns carb cleaner and a soft toothbrush, theres many guides on here to do this. Guarantee this will cure the cold start running problem. Needs to be done once a year. Crap buils up around the throttle butterfly and it blocks the air flow. Hold it up to the light and look down the barrel, you should see an even ring of light coming through around the butterfly like a halo. This air flow is your cold start/choke on etc so the air flow is critical. Ignore the scare mongers regarding disconnecting the wiring to the throttle motor, as long as your ignition is off and key OUT you will not have a problem and you can wedge the throttle butterfly open with a piece of wood or a paint brush handle so you can clean around the edge of the choke flap. Use cotton buds dipped in carb cleaner. Just dont let it spring shut on your finger. Trust me it will be like a new car again.Ps as a last resort try looking at the coolant temperature sensor, the 4 pin green one is 059919501A....a 2 minute job to replace and this can cause the cold start idle to run funny as it thinks the water is hot so it changes the fuel mixture and makes it run lean/ you want it running rich when the water is cold.

Hiya, i have a 51 plate oct vrs and have similar problems, on start up it ticks over really lumpy to the point where it nearly cuts out, when i try to pull away theres nothing at first pressing the pedal gives no revs at all then it picks up but even when driving it feels like it looses power then picks up again? , the temp gauge packed in going up to 90 the dropping down to nothing withing seconds, i have just had the temp sensor replaced and it has made no difference.. any one got any ideas its driving me mad?? ty :-)

[horsetags]

Hiya, i have a 51 plate oct vrs and have similar problems, on start up it ticks over really lumpy to the point where it nearly cuts out, when i try to pull away theres nothing at first pressing the pedal gives no revs at all then it picks up but even when driving it feels like it looses power then picks up again? , the temp gauge packed in going up to 90 the dropping down to nothing withing seconds, i have just had the temp sensor replaced and it has made no difference.. any one got any ideas its driving me mad?? ty :-)

This is a bit late, but i have only just got a 2001 octavia, which had this problem.

I always change the air filter when i get a car and this one was dirty, so definitely got changed.

Strange thing is, the cold running (or the lack of it!) has improved!

I have tried it three different times on cold mornings and it does seem to have improved the sluggish cold running a lot.

[Jase vrs]

Hi I have a Octavia vrs mk1.on a 51 plate.who some on here may remember as BI9 VRS????anyway it's starting to idle funny I have cleaned TB but still no good,it start popping from exhaust aswell weird!anybody have any other plans thanks jase