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Getting the power down


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After my recent remap, even though I'm delicate with the throttle I'm still finding that I get a bit of wheelspin out of 2nd gear corners and sometimes in 3rd on anything but a dry straight stretch of road. So it's got me wondering what mods can be done to help get the power down more effectively. Is there anything (other than replacing the whole suspension setup) that can help?

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Guest westallc

p.s maybe the map is one of these very peaky maps thats being used by a certain tuner at the moment and may be why your spinning all the time a nice smoth map you should be able to control this :thumbup:

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Guest westallc

just read its a p-torque map so should be a good one

the main reason is the turbo is now working as it should lol and prob as you have had the map a short time you have a heavy right foot lol

it will get better

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I've got Pirelli P6000's on, which were on when I bought it a few months ago, I'm not sure where these tyres fit in the grand scheme of things though? I do a fair few motorway miles so I need enough grip but with decent wear rates too.

There's definitely a learning curve involved, compared to the standard map, you need a lot less throttle to make progress now. I think that because the roads around my neck of the woods tend to be very busy lots of the time, perhaps I just get over-excited and greedy with the throttle when I encounter an empty road. If I can remind myself to be progressive with the throttle it might help.

Limited slip diff sounds very expensive... :( Perhaps I should just live with it!!

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I've got Pirelli P6000's on, which were on when I bought it a few months ago, I'm not sure where these tyres fit in the grand scheme of things though? I do a fair few motorway miles so I need enough grip but with decent wear rates too.

There's definitely a learning curve involved, compared to the standard map, you need a lot less throttle to make progress now. I think that because the roads around my neck of the woods tend to be very busy lots of the time, perhaps I just get over-excited and greedy with the throttle when I encounter an empty road. If I can remind myself to be progressive with the throttle it might help.

Limited slip diff sounds very expensive... :( Perhaps I should just live with it!!

Just ride out the next couple of months and when the warm weather comes it will be :D

I have the same problem with a stage 1 Revo if I get a bit heavy with my right foot.

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P6000s never, ever wear out. Swap em for something that grips the road. My mate's ITR had them on when he bought it and after swapping them for Toyos, it transformed the car.

Whoa! Double post. :S

Edited by skinnyman
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P6000 is a long life tyre, ideal if you are doing a lot of miles but as a result of the longevity grip is less. Tyres like Toyo are a lot better in the grip stakes but having run both on our cars you will only get about a third of the miles out of them. You could go as extreme as the Toyo R888 but they will only see 4-5000 max & are useless to the point of being lethal in standing water. Its really down to what you want. Limited slip diff will help tremendously but its a lot of money. Initially try & adapt your driving to suit, short shifting is a good idea (changing up at lower revs) Our remapped Diesel is currently on P6000 & will spin in 1st, 2nd & 3rd in the wet if you just hoof it so you adjust the driving accordingly. Even on quick starts in the dry I get into 2nd as soon as I can. Of couse the real answer is get a 4x4 but Im biased :thumbup:

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Get Powerflex DOGBONE BUSH mate,

that will help slightly, also around £12 ish when I got mine, pos bit more now. also while you under there for about £20 get the S3 lower brace and the bolts and squash nuts, PN all in the sticky. helps cornering a small amount and stiffens up the front.

and again while your at it:

RARB 150-250 depending on the one you get, for cornering mate its the single best thing you can do, do that before you do the suspension.

Tyrese are the best option for getting the power down, best as in money wise as even with the LSD(£800+) if you still dont have good tyres there is not much point,

for the price of the LSD you could have 2-4 years worth of Toyo T1r's lol, I cant wait to try some good tyres, always end up getting cheap ones in wheel deals lol but the next to go on the TD's are gonna be Toyo T1r's for summer FUN FUN FUN :rofl:

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I cant wait to try some good tyres, always end up getting cheap ones in wheel deals lol but the next to go on the TD's are gonna be Toyo T1r's for summer FUN FUN FUN :rofl:

Did you say fun ?

http://www.toyo.co.uk/productdetail.php?identity=products&product_id=67

http://www.toyo.co.uk/productdetail.php?identity=products&product_id=18 This one is not ideal in deep water when it will aquaplane

Edited by Stuart_J
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P6000s never, ever wear out. Swap em for something that grips the road. My mate's ITR had them on when he bought it and after swapping them for Toyos, it transformed the car.

My 4x4 ate its original P6000's in 16k - before the remap :o They were pretty cr*p, but I had them on my 200sx and they were ok.

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They were pretty cr*p, but I had them on my 200sx and they were ok.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there. They are merely ok until you press on a bit and then they let you down. Just out of interest, which 200sx did you have?

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Get Powerflex DOGBONE BUSH mate,

that will help slightly, also around £12 ish when I got mine, pos bit more now. also while you under there for about £20 get the S3 lower brace and the bolts and squash nuts, PN all in the sticky. helps cornering a small amount and stiffens up the front.

and again while your at it:

RARB 150-250 depending on the one you get, for cornering mate its the single best thing you can do, do that before you do the suspension.

Tyrese are the best option for getting the power down, best as in money wise as even with the LSD(£800+) if you still dont have good tyres there is not much point,

Yeah I think I just need to accept the limitations of the tyres I suppose and try to adjust my driving style.

I keep hearing about dogbone mounts/bushes etc. What does the dogbone do and how would it help? I've heard people mentioning increased vibrations after changing the dogbone or bushes (one or the other anyway)

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Keeping the front flat will help, with an open diff the slightest weight transfer will see the inside light up, or in modern cars case the TC kick in and stop the car.

Stiffer front springs and/or ARB will help keep the inside on the floor and aid traction. This method is probably as good as an LSD, but is a nasty comprimise for comfert.

imho ive never noticed much difference in dry traction between tyres unless you goto R rated ones.

Id say enjoy the challenge, its no fun if its all grip.

J

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