Well been thinking about this for a while. The car as it stands has a forge TIP, Carbino and a full blueflame system. and rear anti role bar.

Now am I right in thinking that if I get it remapped the lack of an FMC while hold me back? and if so by how much?

Should i really get a fmc before I get it remapped?

If so I don’t really want to spend all that money on a forge one as they are quiet pricey, tho prob worth it for the complete ease of system (well if they were £200 cheaper ) etc but that’s a different discussion altogether.

Looking at peeps that have done the change to ebay systems and seams like quite a good route. But RobCulleys not written up a guide yet! so I’m a little stuck, (ps thanks for pimpmyskoda its very helpful)!

Looking on ebay are these two any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/98-04-FMIC-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-INTERCOOLER-KIT-/250616423047?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a59e72287

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-SKODA-OCTAVIA-FABIA-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-KIT-/220569141361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335af20071

basically I’m a bit limited on options as have to do my work on the car on the street, so this "beading" i don’t think i could do.

How hard are they to fit if it just a case of taking off bumper and plugging bits together I would be fine with that and minor modifications, but bending pipes is beyond would I could do.

Then the the whole question of pipe size and whether u can get one that goes over the top like the one rob got?

Any way looking for pointer or links to what people think is best.

Thanks

The second one has no MAF take off so you need to buy a forge one or get a pipe made up.

The first one im looking at too just waiting for a reply off the supplier to see how it mounts.

Well there is science to turbo cars and the systems they use.....wish i had paid more attention at school!!

anyway, the forge one works very well and is expensive partly as its designed (flow/pipe size etc) to work well with our cars, its also twinpass as opposed to the ones you are looking at so havs less pipe work and therfore less chance of losing boost, however i wouldnt pay their new price either, what about looking for a kit that looks as similar in size/design to the forge setup?

You dont need it if you are going for a generic map anyway, its only if you are looking for more power and are getting a custom map with a view to say hybrid/big turbo that you need to get one now.

Well been thinking about this for a while. The car as it stands has a forge TIP, Carbino and a full blueflame system. and rear anti role bar.

Now am I right in thinking that if I get it remapped the lack of an FMC while hold me back? and if so by how much?

Should i really get a fmc before I get it remapped?

If so I don’t really want to spend all that money on a forge one as they are quiet pricey, tho prob worth it for the complete ease of system (well if they were £200 cheaper ) etc but that’s a different discussion altogether.

Looking at peeps that have done the change to ebay systems and seams like quite a good route. But RobCulleys not written up a guide yet! so I’m a little stuck, (ps thanks for pimpmyskoda its very helpful)!

Looking on ebay are these two any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/98-04-FMIC-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-INTERCOOLER-KIT-/250616423047?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a59e72287

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-SKODA-OCTAVIA-FABIA-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-KIT-/220569141361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335af20071

basically I’m a bit limited on options as have to do my work on the car on the street, so this "beading" i don’t think i could do.

How hard are they to fit if it just a case of taking off bumper and plugging bits together I would be fine with that and minor modifications, but bending pipes is beyond would I could do.

Then the the whole question of pipe size and whether u can get one that goes over the top like the one rob got?

Any way looking for pointer or links to what people think is best.

Thanks

hi

i have the top one fitted to my car it works well a pain in the a**e to fit but hey its a lot cheaper than the alternative

this link may help

linky

look at my signature i have pics with it fitted

If you are just going to get a generic stage 1 map you wont need a front mount.You could do the "wheel arch mod" which allows a flow of air through the standard side mount cooler,much cheaper option.

With the mods you've listed (full exhaust system, Carbonio and TIP) I would get a custom map rather than a generic map anyway. But even with a generic map you can lose power and torque if you are running the standard intercooler.

I did some tests with a friends VRS on the Romney Marsh over the winter, he had just had a generic remap done and was still running the standard SMIC. We did 4 dyno runs in a row and measured the intake air temps and BHP of each one. The results were a bit of a shocker - from the first run at 20 degrees intake temp and 213bhp it quickly dropped down, at 40 degrees intake temp it was only 194bhp loss of almost 20bhp!!!

From this it looks to me like the single SMIC is able to cool the boost at pressures up to 10-11psi regardless of engine bay temp but as soon as you run higher boost than that it can't cool it enough so when the engine bay temps rise you lose horsepower. The 210bhp and 225bhp Seats and Audis were fitted with twin SMICs to get around this.

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Well aways was planning for custome remap as you suite my mods best.

So the 2nd one is not worth looking at wel that sorts that out.

With the 1st one does it come with all the bits you needed to fit it?

What did you have to do to get it to fit, unplug all the old bits and then mount the Fmc and then just plug it in?

Doable on the street ? I do have ramps that can put under the car to gain access, how hard was it to mount to the turbo.

Thanks for the help.

Yea its do able on the street if you have axel stands to get to the back of the engine to remove the old piping. Front bumper of course needs to be removed. I'd just do the wheel arch mod to be honest and save for the forge as they are designed to be best.

£687 vs £249.99

i realy dont think i could justify the cost of the forge item.

it will be more cosmetic imo the ebay fmic as the bends and the size of the pipe at the turbo is smaller. So i would just get better air in + out of the smic that then saves you £249.

Just a lot of £ for not alot of HP

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by Dan lewis

i agree having looked at a forge one up close, they are a decent bit of kit and are easy as to fit, no extra pipework to mess around with.

Price is massivly different however and i wouldnt buy one new either, if you want an easy job with as little pipework to play with, buy a twin pass fmic, will minimize fabrication, fitting issues.

I agree with Dan, not sure how effective some of those ebay kits are, too much pipework can have an adverse effect.

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by sweedish

the one vrs_1 is using goes over the top so less pipe work and surley must be better than the SMIC with direct airflow over it and increased surface area.

Will not be as good as the forge unit, but i see that, but I think that it is pos a bit of an overkill for what I am looking for and does not represent for me good value for money for me.

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by ezeekiel

dont get me wrong the forge kit is way overpriced, and i know you can get good results from diy kits however introducing too much pipework and too many restrictive bends could end you up in a worse place than where you started.

Keep an eye out on ebay and the for sale section on here for 2nd hand Forge ones. Not sure if they are the same fitting for Mk4 Golfs and Seats but if so then have a look on the Golf and Seat forums too... The member who fitted my stereo in London a couple of weeks back had just bought a 2nd hand Forge FMIC off of another Briskoda member for £250.

check out the for sale section i have a few bits that make life a little easyier when doig this

the one vrs_1 is using goes over the top so less pipe work and surley must be better than the SMIC with direct airflow over it and increased surface area.

Will not be as good as the forge unit, but i see that, but I think that it is pos a bit of an overkill for what I am looking for and does not represent for me good value for money for me.

The idea of a FMIC is to give colder denser air where it is needed, this is proven when temperatures rise, the bhp drops, this is proven time and time again, so I cannot see how an FMIC that plumbs all its pipe work over a hot engine can really help, unless you lag the pipes?

I had the ABD Racing FMIC on my old Octy vRS (See Link Below) and never, ever suffered from heat soak, even when it was really hot in the summer and I was driving briskly (lol) and when out testing on the M2 with Des on his VagCom, it never ever went over 20c, and at times we were going, and several on here who have been out with me in my old Octy vRS car, will know my definition of "going".

No, they are not cheap, but they are a purpose designed item, that sits perfectly behind the centre grille and do not add extra feet of piping, and thus induce turbo lag.

Do you really need one, this is another matter all together, my car was modded and I felt needed one as it was driven as it should be, but for general use when you will rarely bare its teeth to other cars, then no, so save your money towards brakes and suspension upgrades, where you will see much better performance returns for your money.

I listened to Des and Mike, modded my car to a fast reliable stage , where it would upset a lot of bigger engined cars on a regular basis, and a few on here (Andyrew where are you LOL ?), handle like a dream, but still give good fuel returns and be totally reliable.

Ask yourself one question, do you really want to shell out a load of money for no real reason, and never get a return for that expense when you sell the car, and on reflection, would I have spent what I did......"NO".

gerry the abd has the longest route of pipework out of all of them lol

have to say i had the abd unit aswell and its very good and will be miles ahead of the ebay cores but the forge one i use now is better for sure

I still question the expense of a Forge et al FMIC set up!

need peeps with the ebay jobies to come back and tell how they feel they rate and if any have had them on rollers.

Because really need some facts to prove either way. The real question is are they better than the SMIC, which they must be?!? and will they let me get 220-235hp and be stable. Which I assume the SMIC would not.

I just dont think the I could justify the cost of a forge unit. I seams to be over engined for alot more power than I will have.

(p.s. i have an uprated clutch already as well)

Why must they be better......if you fit a massive amount of pipework (like some kits) and have silly right angle bends, then the point i was trying to make was that they might actually hamper performance and be worse than the smic.

Again i am 100% with you on doing it diy, but it an ebay fmic does not really guarantee to be better than an smic, what if the core is sh@t chinese cr@p that doesnt flow properly, that WONT be better!!!

You are right, see what others have done along the ebay route, if the core is right then look at optimising the pipework setup.

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by sweedish

When I finally get mine fitted I'll get it dyno'd

Going to end up with some silly right angle bends though :(

need peeps with the ebay jobies to come back and tell how they feel they rate and if any have had them on rollers.

Because really need some facts to prove either way. The real question is are they better than the SMIC, which they must be?!? and will they let me get 220-235hp and be stable. Which I assume the SMIC would not.

I just dont think the I could justify the cost of a forge unit. I seams to be over engined for alot more power than I will have.

I ran my octy with an smic for 3 years after getting it custom remapped and was happy with the way it performed....I'd done a few mods to it to get more road draft air through it and insulated the pipes better near the manifold.

However I changed to an fmic about a month ago and the difference is night and day.

It pulls so much stronger than it did before from 1200rpm right up to the red line, and gone is any sign of the surging I had before and blamed on (many) faulty N75 valves.

Its hard for me to put into words just how good the car is now and how much of an improvement the fmic is.....yes it was a lot of money, but worth every penny... only wish I'd fitted one sooner.

Here's a pic

Bill.

gerry the abd has the longest route of pipework out of all of them lol

have to say i had the abd unit aswell and its very good and will be miles ahead of the ebay cores but the forge one i use now is better for sure

The ABD pipework does not go over a hot engine, it sits low directly in the cold air flow.

You state that the Forge one is far better than the ABD one, what is this informed opinion based on, facts and figures to prove?????

Or someone down the pub telling you?????????????????????

I ran my octy with an smic for 3 years after getting it custom remapped and was happy with the way it performed....I'd done a few mods to it to get more road draft air through it and insulated the pipes better near the manifold.

However I changed to an fmic about a month ago and the difference is night and day.

It pulls so much stronger than it did before from 1200rpm right up to the red line, and gone is any sign of the surging I had before and blamed on (many) faulty N75 valves.

Its hard for me to put into words just how good the car is now and how much of an improvement the fmic is.....yes it was a lot of money, but worth every penny... only wish I'd fitted one sooner.

Here's a pic

Bill.

Have you fitted the modified crash bar, as with the standard crash bar still fitted, half the FMIC is covered by it, thus reducing the cooling of the FMIC??

nice looking setup that

how much did it cost?