Hi,

last night my heater fan stopped working in all but position 4 and a quick search later it seems this is not an uncommon problem and swapping out the resistor pack will cure it.....

but being both a tight ar@@d Jock and a bit handy with a soldering iron £35 for 3 resistors seems a bit steep to me

i will strip out the unit tonight then see what it contains as if i can get into it then it should be repairable but from past experience getting in tends to be the tricky part!

has anyone had a go at repairing the resistor pack? successfully or otherwise?

i suspect i will end up having to buy the replacement but since its already broken i have nothing to loose by giving a repair a go.

would love to hear from anyone who has had a go at fixing one

Never tried, but maybe invest on a solder sucker , love those things.. great for correcting mistakes..!

r they SMD or normal sized? pic/guide for the future unfortunate ones?

This happened to me on my old focus.

£10 from a scrappy and all sorted.

Never tried, but maybe invest on a solder sucker , love those things.. great for correcting mistakes..!

r they SMD or normal sized? pic/guide for the future unfortunate ones?

hehe yeah the solder suckers are a handy tool

well i just pulled it out to have a look and its toast! looks more like damp has got into it and corroded the wire which explains why i got a complete failure not the more common loss of the lower speeds one at a time.

its a simple device just 4 bars mounted into ceramic with one end making up the 4 pin plug

looks like its a simple wire wound resistor with 3 tappings to provide the 3 lower speeds (the fan still runs on 4 even with it disconnected which is handy as i think i will be wanting the air-con over the next few days!)

unfortunatly they have then encased the windings in a cement of some sort

there could be 2 different guages of wire making up the winding (difficult to tell as its badly corroded where i can see it) and what i presume is a thermal fuse. on mine it looks like one of the windings has failed which has then overheated the device and the thermal fuse has blown (i get open circuit across the thermal fuse and continuity between 2 of the 3 other winding terminals)

i could wind new resistors but need to clean up what i assume is a thermal fuse of some kind as i need to get some identification numbers from it.

doing the sums in quite interesting - the fan runs at 13.5A with a peak load at startup of 16-20A which is a LOT higher than i was expecting! the motor draws nearly 200W so if you assume the resistor pack at only 100w (and i suspect it is probably more like 150W+ 25% of full fan being 75% in the resistor pack) this resistor pack has to dissipate more heat than a 60W light bulb (or 3!) - thats hot!!

without a safe way to protect the surrounding area in a fault i am not so sure that i want to rewind this but if i can figure out a way then it would be less that £5 :( worth looking into but for most i would suggest that £35 for a new pack is worthwhile just for the peace of mind.

this is a high power resistor - thats why its left in the airflow of the system to keep it cool - a dodgy DIY repair has a high risk of damage or even setting the cabin on fire

for now i will just buy a replacement but i will have a look at cleaning up the old one and see if i can make a suitably elegant spare. should i have any sucess i will let you know

Picture tells 1000 words.. :p

Resistor is a resistor. you can get high powered ones from RS or the likes. simple to put in since the whole circuit is still there and all that is required is to change the resistor its pretty straight forward no..?

Only reason a resistor would overheat is bad connection, wrong specs or dud resistor in this scenario.

Think I will start selling fire extinguishers

If you have any pics they would be handy, I have dropped a speed every 6 months and eventually down to speed 4 now , I suppose I had better do this soon.

Picture tells 1000 words.. :p

Resistor is a resistor. you can get high powered ones from RS or the likes. simple to put in since the whole circuit is still there and all that is required is to change the resistor its pretty straight forward no..?

Only reason a resistor would overheat is bad connection, wrong specs or dud resistor in this scenario.

well normally a picture would but with electrics there isnt much to see. if you google the part code for the bit ( 6q0959263a ) there are plenty of images about.

a resistor is just a resistor but the current carrying capacity could be the limiting factor here.

if you can find suitable resistors it will probably cost the same as just buying this item from the dealer - thats why its made from resistance wire.

its cheap and you set the resistance by the length of wire, get the correct guage of wire and it will handle the load. yes it is simple, its even cheap, but if you get it wrong and dont have a suitable safety in place like the OEM part you could easily start a fire right in the centre of the dash where you cant get at it............... not good

thats why i want to test and check suitable options before i even consider puting it in the car. this item may be simple and about as low tech as it comes but dont be fooled into thinking its not built to an exacting standard.

replicating that with a soldering iron and good intention may be a touch foolhardy.

its frustrating as it should be a simple and cheap repair, however, it could also end up being a rather expensive repair if not done correctly.

i was expecting to find a 3A perhaps 5A motor at which point simple store bought components could have been used but at 20A this blower motor is a beast!

if i cant identify the safety device - its the bit at the end that joins the 2 outer pins - then i wouldnt even consider re winding it. even though it would work, it would never be safe.

still it is worth continued investigation

Surely a scrapyard part is the solution ?

For the sake of £30 from the dealer I'd rather get the new part to be honest, you never know how far the resistors will be from blowing in a scrappie part.

well normally a picture would but with electrics there isnt much to see. if you google the part code for the bit ( 6q0959263a ) there are plenty of images about.

Image I see is a wire wound resistor.. nothing overly special about it except it looks like its made by monkeys , but pictures of electronics are very helpful if you know what they mean and where they go

a resistor is just a resistor but the current carrying capacity could be the limiting factor here.

i.e. Watts, yes..

if you can find suitable resistors it will probably cost the same as just buying this item from the dealer - thats why its made from resistance wire.

no idea if these are suitable as I haven't fully read up on the original resistor part but.. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294958747&Ntt=resistor&Nr=AND%28avl%3Auk%2CsearchDiscon_uk%3AN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&N=4294611872+4294783954&Ns=stockPolicy_uk%7C1%7C%7Cnew_uk%7C1&Nty=1&binCount=1164&multiselectParam=4294611872&selectAttribute=150%20W#breadCrumb

thats why i want to test and check suitable options before i even consider puting it in the car. this item may be simple and about as low tech as it comes but dont be fooled into thinking its not built to an exacting standard.

replicating that with a soldering iron and good intention may be a touch foolhardy.

My soldering iron is pro :p I've made many a things over the years (some actually a bit more complex than the ole LED). As said in the reply, if specs are cosha to original then its all good.. as long as nothing else blew

still it is worth continued investigation

agreed

Looked at a few more pics online, found a clearer pic of the resistor..

Seems bit weird shape.. I assume the naked end is a fuse or/and cooling.

I also assume (since I have no idea where this part goes) that its made this size because it needs to fit somewhere, also at the same time there maybe some air movement wherever that's being slotted into.............. Interesting..

Edited 22 June, 201015 yr by JLneonhug

Looked at a few more pics online, found a clearer pic of the resistor..

Seems bit weird shape.. I assume the naked end is a fuse or/and cooling.

I also assume (since I have no idea where this part goes) that its made this size because it needs to fit somewhere, also at the same time there maybe some air movement wherever that's being slotted into.............. Interesting..

the naked end is what i presume to be a thermal fuse of some sort - cant make out the markings on mine so i am a bit stumped on this part.

other than that its just 3 coils of resistance wire, looks to be about 1.8 ohms per coil.

the part fits into the air ducting just after the fan so it sits in the airflow for cooling i suspect that in operation this thing wil get really hot.

if i could identify the componant on the end then i would be good to go but i dont want to re wind the coils without a suitable safety fitted.

will order a new one today and once i get that hopefully i can identify the mystery part. once i have that then i will have a go at cleaning the crud off my broken one and getting it working as a spare - looks like these are prone to failure so having a spare may be handy

the naked end is what i presume to be a thermal fuse of some sort - cant make out the markings on mine so i am a bit stumped on this part.

other than that its just 3 coils of resistance wire, looks to be about 1.8 ohms per coil.

the part fits into the air ducting just after the fan so it sits in the airflow for cooling i suspect that in operation this thing wil get really hot.

if i could identify the componant on the end then i would be good to go but i dont want to re wind the coils without a suitable safety fitted.

will order a new one today and once i get that hopefully i can identify the mystery part. once i have that then i will have a go at cleaning the crud off my broken one and getting it working as a spare - looks like these are prone to failure so having a spare may be handy

You would be wasting time and money

The reason you have full on fan is that the circuit is OPEN circuit ie NO RESISTANCE

the cement stuff is A CERAMIC RESISTOR that absorbs heat

It has not rusted through THE CIRCUIT HAS BURNT OUT = FIRE

THE HIGHER THE RESITANCE THE SLOWER THE FAN

You would have to get a working circuit board. someone willing to remove it and test the OHMS Resitance, then buy the CERAMIC RESITORS and run new circuits to them

It is easy and cheapish to replace

I did a how to with pics but it has vanished since the site update (My only claim to fame and it is removed :-(

It is cheaper to buy through a motor factor getting a vw part (same part number) about £30

National

EDIT for spullink

Edited 23 June, 201015 yr by national

You would be wasting time and money

The reason you have full on fan is that the circuit is OPEN circuit ie NO RESISTANCE

the cement stuff is A CERAMIC RESISTOR that absorbs heat

It has not rusted through THE CIRCUIT HAS BURNT OUT = FIRE

THE HIGHER THE RESITANCE THE SLOWER THE FAN

looks like the design has changed since you did it, there are ceramic insulators but the resistors are just resistance wire wrapped over the insulators with a cementatious paste insulating them. the circuit is indeed "open circuit" but thats infinate resistance not none. the reason maximum still works is more to do with the maximum being a direct connection to the fan (only positions 1,2 and 3 go through the resistor pack) max fan works even with the resistor pack disconnected - as it has been for the last 2 days

You would have to get a working circuit board. someone willing to remove it and test the OHMS Resitance, then buy the CERAMIC RESITORS and run new circuits to them

thats why i have bought a replacement unit that i can test. there is no circuit board, just 4 terminals with resistance coils between them and what i presume to be a thermal fuse protecting against overheating in the case of failure. this is the only problematic bit as i couldnt find any ledgible markings on the failed unit but hopefully i can identify it now i have a new replacement

It is easy and cheapish to replace

I did a how to with pics but it has vanished since the site update (My only claim to fame and it is removed :-(

allow me to assist here it is

it was a great help with the part number and how to get at it - thank you

back to the possibility of repair of the old unit - to replace the resistance coils will cost about £3 for the resistance wire and then whatever it costs for the thermal fuse (£2-3 ??) i will have a dig around tonight to see if i can figure out the spec of the fuse device and if all goes well will try to do a write up if i can effect a suitable repair and the fuse is available.

looks like the design has changed since you did it, there are ceramic insulators but the resistors are just resistance wire wrapped over the insulators with a cementatious paste insulating them. the circuit is indeed "open circuit" but thats infinate resistance not none. the reason maximum still works is more to do with the maximum being a direct connection to the fan (only positions 1,2 and 3 go through the resistor pack) max fan works even with the resistor pack disconnected - as it has been for the last 2 days

thats why i have bought a replacement unit that i can test. there is no circuit board, just 4 terminals with resistance coils between them and what i presume to be a thermal fuse protecting against overheating in the case of failure. this is the only problematic bit as i couldnt find any ledgible markings on the failed unit but hopefully i can identify it now i have a new replacement

allow me to assist here it is

it was a great help with the part number and how to get at it - thank you

back to the possibility of repair of the old unit - to replace the resistance coils will cost about £3 for the resistance wire and then whatever it costs for the thermal fuse (£2-3 ??) i will have a dig around tonight to see if i can figure out the spec of the fuse device and if all goes well will try to do a write up if i can effect a suitable repair and the fuse is available.

Would appreciate it if you could post the resistor ohms when you get them

Would it not be best to get a ceramic resistor with the built in spring thermal cut out,maybe cheaper and easier in the long run

I got the open circuit incorrect, it is short circuit gives full blower obviously as you add resistance the fan runs slower ;-(

Thanks for finding my claim to fame

Regards National

Would appreciate it if you could post the resistor ohms when you get them

Would it not be best to get a ceramic resistor with the built in spring thermal cut out,maybe cheaper and easier in the long run

I got the open circuit incorrect, it is short circuit gives full blower obviously as you add resistance the fan runs slower ;-(

Thanks for finding my claim to fame

Regards National

will do,

from the tests i did on the failed unit (2 of the 3 coils were still in tact) i had 1.8 ohm and 3.3 ohm so it looks to be about 1.8 ohm per coil but i will check the new one to be sure.

so i am fairly certain that the component on the end is a thermal cutout of the organic thermal element type

there are 2 rows of numbers :

240KR1

C0102

no manufacturers name unfortunately but from the above the first bit seems to be standard resistor speak - 240Kohm (no idea why) and the second set i am guessing at the cutout operates at 102C but as i cant track it down this is just guesswork - the case design is however similar to other organic thermal cutouts so thats encouraging.

a bimetal equivalent would be better though

i like the idea if the ceramic resistor with built in cutout - may end up as a long term improvement if a suitable resistor is out there

thnaks for the suggestion

Edited 25 June, 201015 yr by opentoideas

will do,

from the tests i did on the failed unit (2 of the 3 coils were still in tact) i had 1.8 ohm and 3.3 ohm so it looks to be about 1.8 ohm per coil but i will check the new one to be sure.

so i am fairly certain that the component on the end is a thermal cutout of the organic thermal element type

there are 2 rows of numbers :

240KR1

C0102

no manufacturers name unfortunately but from the above the first bit seems to be standard resistor speak - 240Kohm (no idea why) and the second set i am guessing at the cutout operates at 102C but as i cant track it down this is just guesswork - the case design is however similar to other organic thermal cutouts so thats encouraging.

a bimetal equivalent would be better though

i like the idea if the ceramic resistor with built in cutout - may end up as a long term improvement if a suitable resistor is out there

thnaks for the suggestion

I meant of course ceramic thermal "fuse" resistor

We used to have them where a side spring was soldered down (thermal temp solder) at high temp the solder melted and spring open cct = easy repair

All I can find just now on google is inbuilt fuse, so you would have to replace the resistor, I supppose it is to save the circuit job done, rather than save time and quick repair

National

All I can find just now on google is inbuilt fuse, so you would have to replace the resistor, I supppose it is to save the circuit job done, rather than save time and quick repair

National

looking around it seems like the possibilities of repair are limited to a combination of what is both practical and cost effective. ceramic resistors of the grade required start to buid cost even without some form of inbuilt cutout which i cant find together in the right spec.

i have found these little devices which look like an elegant solution to the cutout - self resetting unlike the throwaway one time fuse in the OEM part.

need to find a seller of them to see what they cost but a combination of this and a heavier than required resistance coil would be both safe in operation and fault tollerant.

whether the cost of repair is justified however remains to be seen these would be a direct replacement and probably more cost effective but i like the idea of never having to worry about fixing it again - well the origonal only lasted 90K miles :p

Hello All,

I have the same problem with my 1.9tdi Skoda Roomster 2007, I have removed the resistor (remove the top glovebox then carefully remove the passenger airbag) it is in there, you just have to look & feel.

So I am going to try having the resistor repaired. This is where I am going to send it to www.BLOWER-MOTOR-RESISTOR.co.uk. I have no connection with the company in any shape or form.

If you are quite good at DIY then it will save you a bit of money, which I am more than happy to do. The current cost is £13.50 for a same day repair inc the return postage, you will just have to pay the postage to get it there.

Hope it helps someone.

Cheers Paul J

Edited 17 November, 201114 yr by Paul

My scrapper sourced resistor is still going strong after a good 4 years or more.

Looking back at the thougts on repair - might I suggest if relacing the resistors then you use high temperature solder (not a joke -just of different composition to electrical ) which melts at a higher temperature .

Still think a neater solution would be to consider some form of SMPS ,where the switch position varied the percentage of on time ,providing power to the fan , or make it continous from stop to full .That way ther's little power /heat to dissapate

Edited 17 November, 201114 yr by VWD

My kangoo has just developed this fault.

Scrapyard for me I think.

...Still think a neater solution would be to consider some form of SMPS...

Some time ago, I built a PWM circuit based on a big power MOSFET, MOSFET driver and PWM chip. It was for a mate with Golf IV. The motor is about 250W so to be on the safe side I used an IRFP064N mounted in place of the resistor. The rest of the circuit was in a box next to the motor.

one of the common reasons for resistor failure seems to be clogged cabin pollen filters reducing the air flow leading to the resistor overheating

Some time ago, I built a PWM circuit based on a big power MOSFET, MOSFET driver and PWM chip. It was for a mate with Golf IV. The motor is about 250W so to be on the safe side I used an IRFP064N mounted in place of the resistor. The rest of the circuit was in a box next to the motor.

Very posible - TL494 would give an output decided on by feedback ,at HF to control some Semi conductor .