I got a kick from a camel today and then a goat jumped up on the door and I had monkeys all over the bonnet, took it through a car wash to get the lama spit off the windows and all was good, i think VAG paint is very good.

BTW I have not taken any drugs today!

I got a kick from a camel today and then a goat jumped up on the door and I had monkeys all over the bonnet, took it through a car wash to get the lama spit off the windows and all was good, i think VAG paint is very good.

BTW I have not taken any drugs today!

.....i don't even know where to start!!!!

Edited 30 August, 201015 yr by JR RS

.....i don't even know where to start!!!!

And that coming from an Aussie

Well, the re-painted front bumper is wearing better than it did previous!

The paint match is quite good although you can see where it had previous chips as the paint has sunk.

As a previous post had said I think the re-paint possibly uses a different less water based paint which appears to be more resistent to the elements!

** No animals were harmed during the writing of this post. **

I suspect respray paint is simply thicker rather than "better" paint.

I've got a five year old Volvo which seems to resist stone chips better than most and I imagine its lovely friendly water based paint, so I can only imagine its applied a bit more liberally.

I went to look at a 1 year old Alfa 159 last year at a main dealer and it looked as though the bonnet edge had been shot-blasted. I couldn't believe anyone would put a car on sale at top retail price like that.

How does Skoda paint compare to VW or Audi, anyone have a view?

Spoke to soon!

After a much needed clean I noticed some of the 'new paint' had flaked off!

Further investgation reveals quite a lot of the new paint obviously hasnt adhered to original paint work !

So, another visit to the supplying dealer to go through the process yet again. Wondering If I can choose another paint shop as the one they use obviously isnt up to doing it properly!

Pics to follow....

Edited 23 January, 201115 yr by swordstoke

Been so busy didnt have the chance to book it in until now.

Tuesday it goes and get another courtesy car for a couple of days.

Seems the laquer hadnt adhered to the paint? Paint underneath is Matt like in finish.

Hey ho here we go again!

i had ventureshield fitted to the front of my last korean origin car it was an absolute very much needed neccessity as the paint was absolutely shocking as was the dealer response to those who took their vehiicles to the dealer with paint problems , the american dealers offer the "clear bra" (a half bonnet and front end wrap)as an option akin to mats or mudflaps before the cars leave the showroom! the 3m venturesheild guy is always busy !! (yes it is that bad!)my installer i had to fit my "bra" was ok but you have to have a scrupously clean car and if your paint was as bad as mine i pcked up two chips on the way to the place to get it done so when fitted, under the film was the chips ! grr! also it "lifted"away at the rear, that is the trailing edge of the film on the bonnet got seperated from the bonnet, this happens when ice melt and snow slloowwly slide off the bonnet the very cold ice "gets under" the film if there is the slightes microscopic gap, i had to go back(90 miles ) to get it sorted out , also ive been since informed that a disclaimer has to be signed before the film can be removed as it sticks very well and if not prepped before removal(heated up) it can pull off paint that has been applied and not baked (smart repairs touch up etc) im impressed that the dealers are dealing with the problem and doing the paint defects as they are because the crowd i was with before said all stone chips etc were not covered by warranty (fair enough i spose)but wouldnt admit the paint was sprayed far too thin in vulnerable areas ( anywhere on the car!!)as an aside check out the yetis forum and the film protection that is being fitted because of stone chips on the lower rear door quarters this was one problem we had with my last vehicle and led to a couple of my forum freinds having reprays at 6 months old but only after a bitter row with the manufacturer!as the fault was evident days after rolling out of the showroom ! and guess what the new models have now ..yep nothing !

There was a bad batch of lacquer going about for the last 2-3 yrs i had the exact same issue with my 5 series. Warranty claim easy.

weired only got an update on this thread from July last year, two pages ago! wow Nee they have had you through the mill. Hope they finally sort it once and for all

Cheers Alan, yep , for what seems a trivial bit of paintwork is turning out to be a pain in the proverbial!

Thing that concern's is that its going back to the original sprayer's and if it is duff lacquer as Grizzle mentioned earlier then its a phone call tomorrow to see how they are going overcome the problem and what assurance they can give that it wont happen again?

Watch this space...

Whatever you do make sure it's Pdi'd properly<or not at all and do it yourself>

Good luck!

How does one ensure whether it's been properly PDI'd or not?

Is proof in the form of an A4 sheet hastily ticked and heavily soiled with oil finger marks and an un- readable signature proof of such?

Does the purchaser have the option of not having the PDI carried out?

How does the purchaser carry out a valid PDI, and by what standard is it to judged by?

Interesting questions. All of which leads me to believe that we are totally in the hands of the supplying dealer.

I had an old friend of many years, who brought a new very expensive foreign import, and had the AA carry

out a full independent PDI inspection service before taking delivery.

Interestingly the AA picked up on a number of significant items that were missed by the supplying dealer.

Now- a- days most purchaser's are happy to be shown the oily tick sheet as full proof that the PDI was carried out successfully.

What do others think or am I just being sceptical !!!

Don't think so at all, why shouldn't you be allowed to be more critical if you feel the need, most customers accept whatever is thrown at them good or bad without a word! If they don't want you poking about what do they have hide?

Going well so far..... car booked in for 8.30 am and Fabia 1.2HSP to look after for a couple of days.

Then had a call at 2pm to say the body shop they use didnt appear to be open and no one was returning the calls!

Why it took them until 2pm is anyones guess !

So...we wait and we wait a bit more.......:wonder:

Had the motor for approx 2 months and allready got the beginings of a 'pepper pot' front end?

Made a concerted effort not to drive to close to vehicles in front (it being a new motor and that) but always manage to pick up another cluster of stone chip marks!

The paintwork just doesnt appear to be as hard wearing as a metallic version.

Anyone else suffering from similar symptoms?

Any ideas how it can be combatted? Tried a few layers of wax etc which does help to a certain degree but wondering if there is any effective transparent

sheeting one could stick onto the most exposed parts other than using one of those car bra's?

I have had my Scout FL in Cappuccino metalic for one year, 10K miles. No chips to date !!!! better than most cars I have owned.

I reckon the metallic paints are more resistant than the flat paints even though they are both clearcoated.

Certainly seems to be that way in my case.

Still suprised how thin the paint looks on the lower part of rear bumper which is also losing paint adhesion.

I've been surprised how easily the lacquer scratches :( If you get just a little bit of dirt under the sponge when cleaning it then you get big scratch marks.

My previous metallic focus never did that - in 8 years never had a single scratch mark while being cleaned.

Almost think that they lacquer they used was dodgy.

Got it back today and it looks fine. Slight difference in colour(looks brighter) but overall generally pleased with it.

Fingers crossed it stay's on this time

coming from a previous car ownner who has dreaded taking out the car i used to have because it was so easily damaged paint wise, i found out through much digging that the following applied... "old paint" (not water based modern paints) were much more resilient to chipping as the paint is softer and inlike modern paint did not "shatter " when impacted by foreign objects , paint chipping occurrs more on metal parts than plastic ones , this is because the plastic absorbs some of the energy of the object hitting it whereas the metal surface yeilds less, non metallic paint fares less well than metallic , reasons unknown but its less easily damaged , polishing it makes no difference to its "chip resistance" , but leaving on the drive , not going within 100 feet of the car in front having it clear bra,d ,does ! as mentioned earlier i see the yetis getting the usual crossover vehicles woes of bonnet and lower half chipping , no suprises there with the shape they are but at least suk are getting them sorted.im afraid its really a case of out every weekend with the touch up stick whatever you drive these days.

I've certainly never owned a car that chips as easily as my 10 plate Octavia. It seems to be the only weak area of the car.

:'(

I've had my 57 plate VRS for a month now and really like it. However, I'm not very impressed with the paint! I'm hopeful that a full detail, including a claying, will improve matters. Let's wait and see!