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Brakes slipping/skidding after ABS sensor changed

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Hi, I had the brake pads and wheel bearing changed a month ago and in the process the mechanic broke the ABS sensor, so I drove for a month without a working ABS sensor. But brakes felt fine though. Now ive had the ABS sensor put in and the ABS and traction light has gone off.

But when I'm coming to a stop and apply the brakes, the pedal slips a wee bit and the tyres skid a bit. I done a controlled emergency brake at 40 mph and the car did stop the tyres did skid (albeit in a straight line very slightly).

The new brake pads are 'vetech' and I've already noticed a very slight squealing now and then.

What could be the problem?

The sensor isnt reading correctly, its noting a different wheel speed so its triggering the ABS.

Either the

Sensor is damaged or not fitted correctly

The sensor pick up on the hub is damaged from when the wheel bearing was done (this could also damage the sensor)

Electrical fault on the ABS system

Needs a diagnostic check first, you can check what the wheel speed sensors are reading with VAGCOM/VCDS.

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It's not serious tbh, I'll see how it goes. Had enough of spending money on this car...

Brakes not working properly not serious? Really?

And if someone has broke it surely they should be fixing it no?

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They work mate, just not perfectly. Im telling a mechanic in a bit to check it. Free of cost of course. I've spent way too much money on this car, next time no way am I buying Skoda.

I've spent way too much money on this car, next time no way am I buying Skoda.

hang on, so your are saying you won't buy another Skoda because your mechanic broke the ABS sensor, and you have decided you are too tight to fix it and want to drive around in a vehicle with what you are saying are brakes which don't function properly. Personally if my mechanic has broken something on my car, while doing a job for me, I would expect the garage for which he works to stump up the costs for labour & parts to fix the car, and return it to me in a legal and safe condition.

Hopefully I won't have you following me down the road / crashing into my car. :S

If you spent too much money on the car, then maybe you bought a duff one, or did not do you research very well before parting with your cash?

Edited by mbames

  • Author

hang on, so your are saying you won't be another Skoda because your mechanic broke the ABS sensor, and you have decided you are too tight to fix it and want to drive around in a vehicle with what you are saying are brakes which don't function properly. Personally if my mechanic has broken something on my car, while doing a job for me, I would expect the garage for which he works to stump up the costs for labour & parts to fix the car, and return it to me in a legal and safe condition.

Hopefully I won't have you following me down the road / crashing into my car. :S

If you spent too much money on the car, then maybe you bought a duff one, or did not do you research very well before parting with your cash?

Assumptions are the mother of all **** ups...

New Oil Pump

Recondition the Turbo

New Clutch

Oil leak involved replacing the gaskets by the turbo, not a small job

This bloody grinding noise I cant seem to get rid off.

Starter Motor

All in the space of 6 months.

And the worst thing it had FSH, alot of it by main dealers. Low mileage too, bought it at 72K.

Ive got a new sensor you muppet, it obviously works as the ABS and traction light has gone off, its either A) a bit dirty or theres another problem.

I wont crash into your car, im not a poor driver ive driven death mobiles and never crashed. The brakes are adequate and pass the legal limit, they should however be better though and im working on that.

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Right, just test drove the car again ABS works fine upto 70MPH+, after that the ABS lights come back on.

Strange or what?

Could GSF have gave me a faulty sensor or could it have dirt/grease on it?

After your retort above,and you still want someone to help :thumbdown:

  • Author

After your retort above,and you still want someone to help :thumbdown:

And what? He addressed me in a arrogant way thinking he knows everything and claiming I put the safety of other road users at risk.

He had to be told.

And what? He addressed me in a arrogant way thinking he knows everything and claiming I put the safety of other road users at risk.

He had to be told.

He has a name. Anyway, if the car has a fault introduced by your mechanic then in my view it should be up the the garage which the mechanic works for to sort out the damage and to resolve it appropriately. Maybe I wasn't in the best of moods earlier - I had been out rebuilding a chimney and I got soaked when the heavens opened.

If your car has needed work on the turbo, new oil pump, clutch and a new bearing then you have been unlucky - or the low mileage of the car might have been a bumsteer - low miles but made to work hard for them.The starter motor - if it was the slow disengage issue - is pretty common and can be resolved for minimal cost, and does not need a new motor (but that may not have been the issue with yours). I have got up to 169k with the original bearings and starter motor on my TDI (that is tempting fate!). Mine did need a new clutch when I purchased it (around the 70k mark), but it was a lease car and I suspect had been given some stick.

Does VAG-com give you an error? Either swap the sensors from side to side and see if the error switches sides (if the sensors are interchangeable, and easy to get out?) Or maybe the ABS ring is damaged rather than the sensor itself. iirc. it is pretty easy to damage them then pressing out the old bearing / pressing in the new bearing.

Edited by mbames

  • Author

Was ****ed off earlier myself too, have been spending alot of money recently and wanted this motor to settle down it still aint. Gonna leave it at dads garage the whole of next week.

He has a launch machine there, plus they need to put in new rear brake pads and sort out the rear caliper groaning noise (i think theyre sticking).

He has a launch machine there, plus they need to put in new rear brake pads and sort out the rear caliper groaning noise (i think theyre sticking).

vRS have a "mooing" thing when in reverse from the rear calipers... think skoda were working on a fix... a shim to stick somewhere...

If your tyres are skidding then I doubt it is the ABS at fault. You feel the ABS operating through the pedal because the tyre is skidding. This means the ABS is working correctly.

My guess is the problem is with the brakes. If the caliper is sticking, it may cause the brakes to snatch causing the skid.

I have to agree with Lummox - brake problems are always serious.

vRS have a "mooing" thing when in reverse from the rear calipers... think skoda were working on a fix... a shim to stick somewhere...

skoda replaced the pads with chamfered item, or chamfered them them selfs. this stoped the noise

with regards to the abs, i would take a hit on the pick up ring being damaged when the colar was removed from the old bearing.

let us know how you get on mate and good luck.

I s this the same mechanic that removed & fitted your wheel bearing with a hammer & not a hydraulic press? if so i suspect he has damaged the abs ring which is welded to the inner face of the hub,if this is damaged it may of damaged your new abs sensor. Not all skodas are bad mine has done 125k with just routine servicing & a clutch & starter motor & a couple of wheel bearings needed in all that time. hope you get yours sorted soon. (maybe have another mechanic look at it?)

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Right, jacked it up myself this morning. The ABS sensor was dirty, cleaned it as best as I could and I thought it was fixed as for a second the low speed tyre skidding/bumping when brakes applied was gone but as soon as I took it back to 70 mph again the same problem.

mikey you was saying he could have damaged the hub, which hub would that be the wheel bearing hub or a different one?

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Finally, could it be anything to do with the fact that the light may need resetting by a machine? I wouldnt have thought it was this as the light is absent until I take it over 70 mph.

Another idea, although I dont think it is this. Could it not be seated properly? As I am sure when I first took the car out in the forecourt at low speeds the skidding thing didnt happen.

But at least I eliminated one possibility, that it could have been a dirty sensor.

skoda replaced the pads with chamfered item, or chamfered them them selfs. this stoped the noise

with regards to the abs, i would take a hit on the pick up ring being damaged when the colar was removed from the old bearing.

let us know how you get on mate and good luck.

The pads were always like that, they fitted a shim to the back of the pad with little sucess. The only way I know to sort it 100% is the damper weight kit.

260820091487.jpg

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my rear caliper was stuck thats why it made the noise, got a reconditioned one for £80 and noise all gone.

Right, jacked it up myself this morning. The ABS sensor was dirty, cleaned it as best as I could and I thought it was fixed as for a second the low speed tyre skidding/bumping when brakes applied was gone but as soon as I took it back to 70 mph again the same problem.

mikey you was saying he could have damaged the hub, which hub would that be the wheel bearing hub or a different one?

It is the same hub that the wheel bearing was fitted to,the hub flange that has the abs ring welded on to the rear face of it is pressed in & out of the wheel bearing,it is made out of soft metal & could easily of been damaged,care has to be taken when removing the bearing inner race that always ends up left on here as you cant get a puller in so i had to cut mine off,its possible your mechanic may of damaged this ring,sadly the only way to check is to strip it all down again & chances are you will need a new wheel bearing again as it will come to pieces as you remove it.

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How can I tell if the ABS rings on the bearing hub have been damaged?

a bent ring or warped ring is usually a good indicator

If you take the brake disc off you can see the ABS rotor and ABS sensor.

If an ABS error is triggering over a given road speed, it's highly likely that the computer is registering a different road speed on one wheel than on the others. Apologies if this is teaching my grandmother, but do you have one brand new and 3 well-worn tyres or the other way about?

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