Recently noticed that when I go to start the car, nothing happens. You would notice that wouldn't you? :yes:

What i mean is that when I turn the key to the the start position, the lights in the dash come on and go out accordingly, but then as I turn the key on to the ignition position the brake fluid level light pops on briefly and the car does not start. Nothing. Not even a ticking of relays or a dimming of any lights, nothing. Turn the key back and try again, it will start :S .

I have not really looked before, but should the brake fluid light come on along with the other dash lights ? The manual suggests that it should, for a short time. Mine doesn't come on though until I turn the key right around to the start position.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Edited 24 September, 201015 yr by myjalopy

possibly the ignition switch is on it's way out

Or the connection tot he starter solenoid? I seem to remember having left that off once and it do something similar.

Thanks chaps. I was just puzzled by the brake fluid light thing, but I will look at your suggestions today.

Tom, can the ignition switch be replaced or is a whole new barrel, keys etc?

The brake fluid warning light should come on for a few seconds when you switch the ignition on, so you know that the bulb works, but not when you turn it to the starting position, no. That does sound a bit wrong. It may well be worth checking the connections around the starter motor - I've not had an issue with my Felicia, but I did have a horrible Mk3 Fiesta which often exhibited a dead starter motor whenever it was wet, cause it was mounted in a stupid place and collected water around the terminals.

The ignition switch is on the back of the lock barrel and is replaceable, although according to Haynes you have to take the lock off the column to do it, which means faffing with shear bolts and such. Hopefully Tom knows differently

Edit: having said the above, I checked my car when I went shopping this afternoon and as it turns out, my brake fluid and ABS warning lights do flicker when the starter is operated. However, I can't guarantee my car is any less wrong, other than that the starter works. The handbook certainly only mentions the lights coming on to self-test when first switched on.

OK, from the wiring diagram it looks like it's actually meant to happen - the initial lamp test is presumably controlled by the instrument panel circuitry or ABS controller when it powers up, but the ignition looks to be wired so that at position II it sends the fluid level switch line live as well. Can't say I've ever noticed it before, though, on this or any other car. That's me learned something new for today, I'll shut up now!

Edited 10 September, 201015 yr by RobinSLXi

yes you can seperate the switch block from the ignition barrel, but you need to remove the steering lock assembly from the column, you will need to drill out the old sheer bolts too and fit new ones on reassembly...

it's worth you getting a multimeter and testing the operation of the switch before you dismantle it too in case it is not faulty... but i'm working on the assumption that becuase the car starts then there is not a problem with the starter motor wiring... the only difference electonically bewteen the run and start positions is that terminal 50 goes live in the start position (which activates the starter solnoid)

[quote

RobinSLXi

my brake fluid and ABS warning lights do flicker when the starter is operated.

Hmm. My brake fluid light ONLYcomes on briefly as I turn to start the engine, not before at all.

Not had a chance to check the wiring anywhere yet, but starting (excuse the pun) with the starter solenoid is my plan, as it's easiest!

Had a look and as my multimeter decided to break, I am assuming my connections are fine. They certainly look it.

I really think that it is the ignition switch if anything, because it will start fine if I do this routine: turn the key as normal, then turn it back a notch then forward again.

The brake fluid light still only comes on as I am on the last part of turning the key, instead of beforehand, so maybe there is a problem there too.

Getting to the barrel/switch looks a pain though, as it's located on the main fascia panel, unless it can be accessed by removing the panel under the steering column. This isn't described in the Haynes manual though, but should be able to work it out myself.

Is there a possibility of a bad earth -somewhere like engine to chassis . Switch on ign -electrics work as normal, because there's little current flowing,. Then as starter comes in - the voltage drop at high current means not enough volts for starter to turn over --- just a tot . Usually ,once a bad earth, always a bad earth ,but in electrics/electronics anything is possible .

Personally, I'd be looking for more indications of where the volts are not ,before rushing in .If no meter, try something like a headlamp bulb as an indicator -and as it will draw about 5A - it will help with bad connections .

I had this problem once with one of my Felicia's. Turned the key and nothing...??? This may be a long shot but it worked for me and it was FREE!!!

I just opened the fuse box under the dash on the passenger side and one at a time I pulled each relay out and replaced it. I done this 2 - 3 times for each relay. Do this one at a time though so you don't forget where they go. I must have had a dodgy connection / earth and popping the relays out must have cleaned the connections. N!CE.

As I said, it could be a quick fix and it's free. Good luck

Thanks for the suggestions.

I will check the relays and get a new meter tomorrow, but I am puzzled by the fact that the engine starts on the second turn, but not the first. Every time.

i think it's most likely to do with the way the contacts change over as the key barrel turns. but thinking about it, it may also possibly be the x-contact relay playing silly

Got worse today. Stuck on a petrol forecourt trying to bump start the bloody thing as it will not start at all now just by turning the key.

Got home and found that if I wiggle the key about as I turn it it usually works. So, has to be a barrel/switch problem I suppose, but will have to put up with it for now until the w/e.

Tom what's an x contact relay?

x-contact is a main supply relay that powers some of the other live feeds on the other relays.

I'd agree that almost certainly sounds like the switch in that case - my bike's the same (have to really wiggle the key about after switching the ignition on if I want the taillights to work!). It's not that hard to get to - there's either one or two screws holding the lower cowl on (depending on whether you have an airbag or not), then just 4 bolts securing the steering column to the bulkhead - you can drop it down and get at the lock that way. Certainly no need to take the dash apart. As for the Haynes manual - my copy covers this in section '10.18 Steering Column - Removal', with plenty of pictures and everything. Maybe older editions are different?

I'd agree that almost certainly sounds like the switch in that case - my bike's the same (have to really wiggle the key about after switching the ignition on if I want the taillights to work!). It's not that hard to get to - there's either one or two screws holding the lower cowl on (depending on whether you have an airbag or not), then just 4 bolts securing the steering column to the bulkhead - you can drop it down and get at the lock that way. Certainly no need to take the dash apart. As for the Haynes manual - my copy covers this in section '10.18 Steering Column - Removal', with plenty of pictures and everything. Maybe older editions are different?

Even wiggling doesn't work sometimes since yesterday, have to bump it.

I was looking in the wrong place in my manual, as I was looking on how to get to the barrel only.

if you have a look at the thread that is stickied at the top of this felicia section called 'power steering retro fit' you might find some relevent info on removing the steering column

There's an old thread on replacing the ignition lock: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/52310-fitting-new-ignition-lock-need-some-advice/

Another option is to mount a start button, see http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/82070-felicia-ignition-switch/

Edited 16 September, 201015 yr by swedishskoda

All good advice chaps, thanks.

Looks like a busy w/e for me then.

There's an old thread on replacing the ignition lock: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/52310-fitting-new-ignition-lock-need-some-advice/

Another option is to mount a start button, see http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/82070-felicia-ignition-switch/

I had a look at the start button option, but can't easily see how it is wired, in the pictures in that thread. The yellowwire to brownwire connection is easy to see, but where does the other end of the brown button wiring go?

Looks like the switch is duff.

I managed to get the column down and found that wiggling the switch/wires while holding the key at start position worked.

Then for some reason i decided to prise open the 3 clips that hold the switch in, or so I thought. The contact assembly sprung out all over the footwell. Yes, now I know that they don't hold the switch in place. There are 2 grub screws that do that.

Great fun finding the springs and putting it all back together again, I am guessing it's correctly reassembled, as I am back to square one- wiggling the switch on the end of the barrel to get it started.

Will be ordering a new switch tonight, as I need the car by Wednesday morning.

Now the airbag light stays on, because i disconnected a wire when i was moving the steering column. I have tried disconnecting the battery, but no luck. How do I get the light to go off?

the wire you disconnected was probably the airbag slip ring, sadly you will need vag-com to turn it off.. just go into the airbag module and erase the fault codes and it should dissapear

Cheers Tom, yes it was the slip ring wire. Thought it would pull too tight as i was taking the column down, but probably would have been OK.

Got a new switch and fitted it tonight. Once you have the iginition barrel accessed, it's just a matter of 2 grub screws and swapping the wires from the old to the new. Car starts fine now.

It looks like the old switch had some slight arcing across the contacts gap. I read that they could,be bent back to shape, but a new switch is £10, so easier to replace it.

hope you took lots of pics so you can write up a how-to guide?