Im trying to find a way through my bulck head to run a power lead to my amp anyone care to shed some light?

Behind the glove compartment is generally the place to start...

HTH

Yea go that off and pushed the wire through but cant find it ha ha

Tape it to a kebab skewer or a coathanger or something, so there's something sticking out the other side that you can look for. I think it will come out under the air box, so you'll probably need to take that out...

I ran my wire along the drivers side. Behind the panel with the head light switch is a kind of relay holder thing. At the bottom of that is the main power cables coming into the car. Bolt your amp wire to this. Jobs a good en! In a previous job i fitted car alarms and sound systems so i have a habit of finding the easy way. Remember to keep your power cables and speaker cables separate or you can pick up interference.

I ran my wire along the drivers side. Behind the panel with the head light switch is a kind of relay holder thing. At the bottom of that is the main power cables coming into the car. Bolt your amp wire to this. Jobs a good en! In a previous job i fitted car alarms and sound systems so i have a habit of finding the easy way. Remember to keep your power cables and speaker cables separate or you can pick up interference.

Your better off going right to the battery unless you can be sure that the cable from the battery to that junction can handle the added current draw of the amp as well as what it was designed to handle - remember that anything inside the car is likely to only be designed to handle 10 maybe 20amps and even the smallest amps can draw 30amps

And you need to keep RCA/Signal cables away from power cables not speaker cables - speaker cables are fine running with power. - speaker wires carry the already amplified signal and so are not susceptible to interference

That's me told. Not had any bother with inequality on 4 years and its running two alpine v12's

That's me told. Not had any bother with inequality on 4 years and its running two alpine v12's

I wasnt slapping wrists dude just thinking out loud - I like to know I have adequate protection on my wiring, and not being familiar with the wiring in the MKI was advising caution

If the cable from the battery to the point you connect your amp to is not fused - that is a section of cable that is not protected in the case of a short circuit (remember that fuses in the power cable are there to protect the cable not the amp at the end)

Are they not fused on top of battery?

That's what i thought when i looked at it, as the big power cable off the bat goes to the starter and the least runs it a fuse block.

Are they not fused on top of battery?

in general (as I have no experience with the electrics in the MK 1) the power cable usually goes from the battery to the fuse tray under the bonnet but some of the internal accessories are fused in the cabin if the location you are connecting to is before that internal fuse box then it wont be fused

Im gonna have a another look tonight if rain stops. Just make sure I've got it right. On top of battery there is a couple of 30amp fuses in the holder thing. Dam cars there's always sumet.

Im gonna have a another look tonight if rain stops. Just make sure I've got it right. On top of battery there is a couple of 30amp fuses in the holder thing. Dam cars there's always sumet.

if there is a 30amp fuse in the cable already it would mean that is the max that Skoda intended it to carry - adding the amp power to that cable later down the line could cause problems - if the cable looks upto the job then its just a case of increasing that fuse - if the cable doesn't look like it could handle the max current draw of the amp plus 30amps then don't use it

I think the cable is a 8awg but would need to look at it again. Sound system has just been changed in boot as no longer have spare wheel so I'll be removing the panel to put fuse back in so I'll double check as you got me wondering now.

I went to look where i put my cable, Its goes into a bit of trunking behind the airbox then through the plenum chamber, sqeezed through the hole next to the cabin filter housing where air trunking passes through bulk head, obiously comes out very high up behind glove box but i must've managed it some how. If I recall I started from engine bay side then pulled whole length of cable through. On the subject of fuses i defo think a specific in line fuse as close to the battery connection as possible is the best bet, saves blowing any of the cars own fuses if you have a problem and is also an easy way to isolate your amps while you do any installation / alterations.

I ran my wire along the drivers side. Behind the panel with the head light switch is a kind of relay holder thing. At the bottom of that is the main power cables coming into the car. Bolt your amp wire to this. Jobs a good en! In a previous job i fitted car alarms and sound systems so i have a habit of finding the easy way. Remember to keep your power cables and speaker cables separate or you can pick up interference.

Same as I did, I believe the terminal will hold up up to 70amps, or so the sticker beneath it suggests. It's also handy because if you use the yellow one, it switches with the ignition (if you were wiring something that didn't already have a switch) Did this on my last petrol Octavia and on my current diesel one. No problems to speak of yet in the past few years. Possibly luck, but I'm guessing if other members report the same, it's safe to use this for a simple set up. It's certainly a lot easier and doesn't carry the risk of making yourself a nice leak in the bulk head and ending up with a swimming pool in the passenger foot well. However I would still suggest using an in line fuse in your wiring.

Same as I did, I believe the terminal will hold up up to 70amps, or so the sticker beneath it suggests. It's also handy because if you use the yellow one, it switches with the ignition (if you were wiring something that didn't already have a switch) Did this on my last petrol Octavia and on my current diesel one. No problems to speak of yet in the past few years. Possibly luck, but I'm guessing if other members report the same, it's safe to use this for a simple set up. It's certainly a lot easier and doesn't carry the risk of making yourself a nice leak in the bulk head and ending up with a swimming pool in the passenger foot well. However I would still suggest using an in line fuse in your wiring.

Get on Im not alone. No longer am i the black sheep. Lol

If it says its good to 70amps thats good enough for me - as I said i dont know the wiring in the octavia, plus im used to needing connections able to handle 200amp + hehe

Christ that's big sound system then.

Christ that's big sound system then.

check out www.projectbigblack.co.uk dude hehe

8 amps all needing 200a each

10 100ah batteries

dual 210a alts

I went to look where i put my cable, Its goes into a bit of trunking behind the airbox then through the plenum chamber, sqeezed through the hole next to the cabin filter housing where air trunking passes through bulk head, obiously comes out very high up behind glove box but i must've managed it some how. If I recall I started from engine bay side then pulled whole length of cable through. On the subject of fuses i defo think a specific in line fuse as close to the battery connection as possible is the best bet, saves blowing any of the cars own fuses if you have a problem and is also an easy way to isolate your amps while you do any installation / alterations.

Just done the very same. Autoleads set with 8AWG. Wire comes into cabin behind the big cable loom behind the Glovebox. 60A Fuse near airbox. Damn power wire was 3ft short! so another fuseholder 60A in the boot and another metre of wire to extend.

Note no problems running Phono Leads alongside. Should be fine as it it screened cable. If you get noise through the phono lead it will be down to bad earth/bad connection somewhere.

Also see RobsPimpmySkoda site.

Edited 2 November, 201015 yr by goonybird

I have run it from the cable behind the headlight switch i ran offa 30a feed and fuedit just befor the amp againits only a little built in sub and amp unit just for some background thump as the standard speekers are pants but much better now!! Thanks for the help guys, i have far tomuch cable i need to cut it down and tidy it all up but run out of light yesterday.

another thing to watch if you choose to run rca's down the centre is to avoid crossing the wire under the rear seat (fuel pump power i think). when rca's do pick up interferance it is worse if they cross a cable, running parallel shouldnt be as bad especially if well shielded.