Buying Privately - what to look for?

[SimonS]

I've just written off my lovely 2001 Octavia TDI and I'm looking at replacing it with something newer. My budget will stretch to ones 2-3 years old, but not at dealer's prices. I'm therefore left with private sellers. What should I pay particular attention to on models of this age. Obviously, I intend to HPI the car, and I'll probably get an AA / RAC inspection done as well.

In the meantime, what checks should I make to ensure I don't get a wrong un? Is the VIN stamped anywhere else on the car, in addition to behind windscreen? Are there any serious mechanical issues to watch out for?

Appreciate any feedback and comments.

Edited 8 November, 2010 by SimonS

[Dougall]

I think you need to be more specific on what model your thinking roughly about to get replies:

Petrol or Diesel

Hatch / Estate

VRS / Elegance

Dougall

[SimonS]

I think you need to be more specific on what model your thinking roughly about to get replies:

Petrol or Diesel

Hatch / Estate

VRS / Elegance

Dougall

Sorry, should have said it will be another Diesel hatch, either Elegance or L&K.

[Stuart_J]

AA / RAC checks are always a good idea if you are unsure. If you have an independant garage you trust they can be equally good.

The RAC equivalent of the HPi check is good value & can be done on line. With the "cheaper" checks beware many offer no comeback if they are wrong.

http://www.rac.co.uk/products-services/car-data-checks/?source=R695&CMP=KNL-google-rac-vsc&HBX_PK=rac+vehicle+checker_google_Broad&HBX_OU=50

All I can add is look for a genuine car with good history & you can often gauge the life the car has had by the owner.

Others will be along with specific faults

[Keith Lard]

All I can add is look for a genuine car with good history & you can often gauge the life the car has had by the owner.

Thats been a big factor for me, I've walked away from numerous cars+bikes because the owner just didn't seem "right", they couldnt answer simple questions, were deliberatley vague with other answers and told lies about others! Doesn't take long to work out when you have found a good seller, someone who has kept all the reciepts for everything is a good start. A "full service history" doesn't mean anything to me unless it's backed up with invoices.

[ap0gee1978]

Avoid any with ESP, unless it really is a bargain. Even if it's working now, the Teves Mk60 unit appears to have a design flaw that causes it to fail around the four-year mark. Much as it pains me to recommend NOT buying a Skoda, the Octy is one of the models affected, so I can't in all conscience...

Google it.

[Lou_O]

Check the ESP light, make sure it comes on with all the others and then goes off when turning the key.

An unscrupulous seller will try and hide an expensive failure by disconnecting the bulb.

Have a search on 'Teves Mk60' for more info.

[ap0gee1978]

Yeah, but as I say, just because it's working on the day you buy it, doesn't mean it won't fail in the future. If reports are correct, and it really is a design flaw, then any car with a Teves Mk60 will suffer ESP failure sooner or later, which I why I can't recommend buying one privately where you have no comeback at all... :(

[Lou_O]

Yeah, but as I say, just because it's working on the day you buy it, doesn't mean it won't fail in the future. If reports are correct, and it really is a design flaw, then any car with a Teves Mk60 will suffer ESP failure sooner or later, which I why I can't recommend buying one privately where you have no comeback at all... :(

It's a fair point, either buy one you know has had the part replaced or else walk away.

(Edit to add that I posted my reply at the same time as yours so didn't see your original post)

Edited 9 November, 2010 by Lou_O

[ap0gee1978]

No worries!

[peanut18]

I think some of you need to read the first post more carefully, SimonS talks about buying a car that is 2 to 3 years old and therefore will probably still be covered by some of the manufacturers warranty, provided that it has been serviced correctly and has under 60,000 miles on the clock.

Buying a car second-hand from a private individual is all about risk mitigation. Sure there are plenty of horror stories, but if you do your homework and keep your wits about you it is easy - I know as I have a 2007/56 Octy vRS which I bought privately at just over 2 years old. Here is my list of sensible things to do:

1. HPI the car before you even bother to go look. You can do this with MyCarCheck and many others for just a few quid. If that doesn't check out walk away. Worth the £3 to £5 for all the time it will save you going to look at a pile of junk.

2. If HPI check comes back clean then view the car look for signs of neglect and ensure all services etc are backed up by invoices, or phone that garage that serviced it and ask them to verify what has been done.

3. If you get a good feeling from your checks and the seller appears legitimate then agree a price 'subject to inspection' agree a holding deposit and agree the terms to which you would be entitled to a return of your deposit. Suggest no more than £100 at this stage, it shows goodwill and shows the seller you are genuine. Get a written and signed receipt.

4. Arrange for a professional inspection with AA / RAC or any other reputable company. In the past I have used Dekra and they have been excellent.

5. If inspection comes back clean and everything else is to your statisfaction then pay the rest of the monies, fill in the paperwork and drive off in your new car.

6. With regard to the Teves fault specifically. If the car is still under warranty then you are covered. If it isn't then you can always use the company ECU Testing to fix it at a cost or circa £600 IIRC.

7. All cars have inherrant faults and disregarding an Octavia on the basis of the Teves fault is, in my opinion a massive oversight. Octavia diesels also suffer from pourous cylinder heads, eating turbos, DPF failures etc etc. But so do many other cars. No car is completely without fault and with modern electronics the cost of repairs are ever increasing - no manufacturers have a 100% reliability record.

[SimonS]

I really appreciate the feedback from all of you. I've read many posts already about problems with this that and the other which worries me, including the Teves unit failing. But like one poster said already, I've got to everything into consideration.

The car I'm considering favourite is a 57 plate L&K with only 14,000 miles on the clock. It's a good price because the seller had bought it cheaper in the 1st place from a car supermarket, who'd imported it. The only drawback from that is it came with only 2yr warranty instead of the usual 3yrs from franchised UK dealer. On the face of it, it looks good, but it's difficult to verify the mileage. The car's never needed an mot, so that's one dead end. The car had it's first and second service at an independant garage, so doubtful they'll have a record of mileage.

Is there anything else I can do to verify mileage?

[ap0gee1978]

@peanut18:

I agree that there are always reliability issues with cars, but in the case of ESP'd Octavias and diesel Superbs, the faults seem to be a case of 'when' rather than 'if'. Now there are other routine mantenance expenses like cambelts of course, but in the case of the Octy's ESP, you're looking at well over a grand to have it done at a dealer - or as you say, paying half that to get it remanufacturer by ECU Testing or Sinspeed, but then being without a car for a week and/or paying storage at the garage doing the removal and refitting.

I'd love to recommend ESP-equipped Octavia IIs as used buys, but VAG have dropped the ball big-time...

[pixor]

Wouldn't getting a warranty safeguard him?

[ap0gee1978]

Have you seen the hoops you have to jump through to maintain an aftermarket warranty? It'd be cheaper to put the money you need to spend on un-necessary servicing under the matress and just keep your fingers crossed. And since aftermarket warranties are essentially insurance policies, it's only a matter of time until the ABS units are excluded or subject to periodic maintenance, I reckon...

[slicendice]

Slightly mundane, but test the rear screen washer as I believe there can be a bit of a weakness there on Octys. If it doesn't work, it may just be that the jet's blocked and it needs clearing out but it can be an issue with the pump/hosing which can be a real faff to sort out (I think there's a thread or two on here about it somewhere). Not necessarily a reason to walk away, but could give you some bargaining power.

Good luck!

[Stuart_J]

I really appreciate the feedback from all of you. I've read many posts already about problems with this that and the other which worries me, including the Teves unit failing. But like one poster said already, I've got to everything into consideration.

The car I'm considering favourite is a 57 plate L&K with only 14,000 miles on the clock. It's a good price because the seller had bought it cheaper in the 1st place from a car supermarket, who'd imported it. The only drawback from that is it came with only 2yr warranty instead of the usual 3yrs from franchised UK dealer. On the face of it, it looks good, but it's difficult to verify the mileage. The car's never needed an mot, so that's one dead end. The car had it's first and second service at an independant garage, so doubtful they'll have a record of mileage.

Is there anything else I can do to verify mileage?

2 services in 14000 is excessive but if it was done by a pedantic owner its fine, worth seeing why it needed 2 services in that period of time. Have a look at the service book & check mileages there, also entries should look like they are done on seperate days, ie not the same pen & hand writing. If the car has had any warranty claims Skoda will have a record & that will include mileage although they may not talk to you but worth a try. If you have a friendly Skoda dealer he may be able to ask & would also be a good person to check the car over, they will have a feel for what wears & how quickly.

Apart from that as jo blogs I would look at the tyres, at 14K they should all be original & the fronts still with a decent amount of tread, condition of the rubbers on the pedals, amount of dirt build up on the ubderside etc etc

There may be a way of seeing if the ECU has been accessed to clock the car but that would be beyond your average dealer / mechanic

I think your saving grace is you are buying from the original purchaser so as long as that rings true you are in a good position. Check he is the name on the log book for the first registered keeper & he should also have the original reciept.

[pixor]

2 services in 14,00 miles over 3 years isn't excessive if he is on fixed servicing, so I wouldn't worry about that. Be aware that imported cars from car supermarkets can have very different specs to the UK version. Make sure you check what you are getting. UK spec cars tend to be higher specified than the foreign equivalent.

[andyvee]

Go for a L&K as they don't have ESP, they have the MK70 controller and ASR don't they?

Also, on a TDI, make sure clutch/flywheel is OK - if the biting point is near the floor walk away, any strange clutch judder or variable biting point just walk away - £1000 to fix on the 2.0TDI PD140.

Turbo - any strange whines/whistles and also the power delivery should be very smooth and not any noticeable 'lag' or sudden boost. Mine has just been replaced under warranty and the difference is unbeleivable, but you wouldn't know there was anything wrong unless you drove one with a brand new turbo on. The common problem is sticking vanes causing overboost and also the turbo seems to come in with a bang at 2000rpm. A good turbo is smooth as silk from 1500rpm.

Climate/Air Con - check it blows cold for a sustained period - especially after the engine has warmed up and been run for a while.

Other than that, can't think of much obvious. A scan with VCDS will tell you if the mileage has been altered.

Oh, water leaks from rear door quarterlight window seals as well.

[SimonS]

Well all things considered, I bought the car I had my eye on - 57 plate, 2008 Octavia 2.0 TDi PD L&K (only 14,000 miles)

The car was checked over by AA, who could only come up with a few minor things; needs new rear wiper, new rear tyres shortly, will need mot in January. I can't beleive the level of equipment on this car - it will take me forever to learn about all the new toys. I'm considering taking a 3yr warranty with WarrantyWise - it's expensive at aprox £700, but it covers everything. I've saved at least that by buying privately, anyway.

[Stuart_J]

Well all things considered, I bought the car I had my eye on - 57 plate, 2008 Octavia 2.0 TDi PD L&K (only 14,000 miles)

The car was checked over by AA, who could only come up with a few minor things; needs new rear wiper, new rear tyres shortly, will need mot in January. I can't beleive the level of equipment on this car - it will take me forever to learn about all the new toys. I'm considering taking a 3yr warranty with WarrantyWise - it's expensive at aprox £700, but it covers everything. I've saved at least that by buying privately, anyway.

Great to see its turned out well & it sounds like you have snapped up a bargain. The snag with owning a L&K is when you come to sell & try & find a replacement with all the toys.

Enjoy the car

Edited 12 November, 2010 by Stuart_J