I was driving into work this morning and came to overtake a car at the of the 30 limit, as I was changing up from 3rd to 4th I felt a slight hesitation, got into Salisbury booted it and the car felt sluggish so I cycled the ignition and the car was back to normal again.

As I had to vagcom someone else's car, I did mine as well this morning, and guess what code I saw..... :'(

VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1

Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 CL

Component and/or Version: 0000SG 3316

Software Coding: 00002

Work Shop Code: WSC 31480

Additional Info: TMBGP21U512486883 VWZ7Z0Y3096563

1 Faults Found:

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation

P1557 - 35-00 - -

gggrrr! For the love of god now what is the matter with my car? I have had the turbo off and cleaned it just before Christmas, elephant mod'ed it, blanked off the EGR, fitted a few lengths of new vacuum hose (from the vacuum ball to the valve cluster and n75 down to the turbo).

I am starting to think the only cure for this car is a brick wall :D Shame as I wanted to get the old girl to 250k before she was allowed to retire!

Any ideas / suggestions?

Thanks

N75? I have come across a couple of split diaphrams on the turbo too now try sucking the pipe maybe :|

Another thing to check is the air inlet pipe to the N75.

The N75 is a changeover valve. The three ports are vacuum, turbo actuator and air inlet.

The air inlet is connected to a plastic connection the air filter housing. This can easily be broken off, causing the pipe to drop down and get blocked.

I did change my n75 about 100k ago :-) Although I guess I might have to change it again.... is there anyway of testing the n75?

I'll have a suck on the control pipe at the weekend and see what happens. Can one source a replacement control bit for the turbo? and more to the point, is it possible to change without having to take the turbo off again?

Edited 19 January, 201115 yr by mbames

I have a few scrap turbos kicking about that you could have an actuator off if you are stuck,

does it make much of a difference 'blanking the egr'? whats an elephant mod? :S

I have a few scrap turbos kicking about that you could have an actuator off if you are stuck,

Cheers - might get back to you over the w/e.

does it make much of a difference 'blanking the egr'? whats an elephant mod? :S

Blanking off the EGR stops some of the exhuast gasses from being recirculated which seems then sticks to the warm oily air from the rocker cover breather and makes a horrible mess in the EGR and inlet manifold. The elephant mod is essentially a vent from the rocker cover to the atmosphere. The ideal solution is a 19mm catch can, so it filters the oil out and passes the air back into the air intake after the MAF, but I was doing mine on the cheap. This prevents any warm oily air mixing with the now non-existant exhaust gasses and should make for a cleaner running car (although maybe a little less environmentally friendly), also means your intercooler does not fill up with oil either!

cheers my tdi has done excatly the same thing- twice in the past week, (same fault code) just got a new n75 (all hoses seem ok..) as soon as you cycle the ignition it clears..

another thing on the 'to do' list.. :S

cheers my tdi has done excatly the same thing- twice in the past week, (same fault code) just got a new n75 (all hoses seem ok..) as soon as you cycle the ignition it clears..

another thing on the 'to do' list.. :S

The sticky turbo vanes is probably the problem, and the only real cure is to take it off and clean it up. Pictures from when I did mine: http://www.matthewames.co.uk/briskoda/index.php?loc=./20101112_turbo_clean I was hoping that as I had cleaned mine back in mid Novemember that would have solved it (first limp since then), so I am guessing something else must be wrong on mine too.....

Mine got worse and worse to the point when ever I accelerated hard it went into limp mode - made overtaking virtually impossible. A lot of my hoses were looking somewhat worse for where when they were clipped in, so I replaced a couple of them. I might check the rest at the weekend and replace them as the hose was relatively cheap (from a dealer).

How much was your new n75 as I feel maybe I should get one of them to rule it out of the equation....

The sticky turbo vanes is probably the problem, and the only real cure is to take it off and clean it up. Pictures from when I did mine: http://www.matthewames.co.uk/briskoda/index.php?loc=./20101112_turbo_clean I was hoping that as I had cleaned mine back in mid Novemember that would have solved it (first limp since then), so I am guessing something else must be wrong on mine too.....

Mine got worse and worse to the point when ever I accelerated hard it went into limp mode - made overtaking virtually impossible. A lot of my hoses were looking somewhat worse for where when they were clipped in, so I replaced a couple of them. I might check the rest at the weekend and replace them as the hose was relatively cheap (from a dealer).

How much was your new n75 as I feel maybe I should get one of them to rule it out of the equation....

new n75 from tps was in the region of £135 + vat i went to the local scrappy i might just try running on redex- i reallty dont want to strip the turbo off if i can help it- i think that will be my last option.. :S how did you clean the turbo vanes? what solvent? did you use? mines doing it once every week, so i really dont fancy the idea of stripping the turbo :( how long does it take to remove etc? i havnt got round to fitting the n75 yet- prob tommorrows job (just done arb links and bushes..) so i'll see how it goes on a roadtest..

new n75 from tps was in the region of £135 + vat i went to the local scrappy i might just try running on redex- i reallty dont want to strip the turbo off if i can help it- i think that will be my last option.. :S how did you clean the turbo vanes? what solvent? did you use? mines doing it once every week, so i really dont fancy the idea of stripping the turbo :( how long does it take to remove etc? i havnt got round to fitting the n75 yet- prob tommorrows job (just done arb links and bushes..) so i'll see how it goes on a roadtest..

fair play, looking at your turbo photos- that was stinking did you notice much of a difference after the clean?

fair play, looking at your turbo photos- that was stinking did you notice much of a difference after the clean?

Aye, it worked properly, and was like a different car :-)

might try running on a few litres of additive- heating oil/ kerosene.. runs hotter and cleaner.. although theres not alot of lube in it.. that'll give it a good clear out

new n75 from tps was in the region of £135 + vat i went to the local scrappy i might just try running on redex- i reallty dont want to strip the turbo off if i can help it- i think that will be my last option.. :S how did you clean the turbo vanes? what solvent? did you use? mines doing it once every week, so i really dont fancy the idea of stripping the turbo :( how long does it take to remove etc? i havnt got round to fitting the n75 yet- prob tommorrows job (just done arb links and bushes..) so i'll see how it goes on a roadtest..

£175???? I thought they were about £20-£30 then I changed mine a few years back. Mine went into limp 3 times on the way home tonight - that is in 60 miles. Bu**er.

I just used my mother kitchen sink and some washing liquid! The job took me a long weekend, but I took my time over it.

I want to know what caused the car to decide an overboost has occured.... I am wondering if that sensor may be where my issue is - I have a feeling that might be the MAP sensor - anyone? I have heard if they get covered in oil they can become dodgy.

£175???? I thought they were about £20-£30 then I changed mine a few years back. Mine went into limp 3 times on the way home tonight - that is in 60 miles. Bu**er.

I just used my mother kitchen sink and some washing liquid! The job took me a long weekend, but I took my time over it.

I want to know what caused the car to decide an overboost has occured.... I am wondering if that sensor may be where my issue is - I have a feeling that might be the MAP sensor - anyone? I have heard if they get covered in oil they can become dodgy.

£135

£175???? I thought they were about £20-£30 then I changed mine a few years back. Mine went into limp 3 times on the way home tonight - that is in 60 miles. Bu**er...

IIRC, the N75 is about £40 for the ASV/AHF

IIRC, the N75 is about £40 for the ASV/AHF

where is it available for £40 for the ahf?

Got an N75 for mine (from dealer) a few months ago cost arounf £40. Make sure the part number is correct. IIRC there have been some chnages and part number may end in different letter i.e F instead of A. BTW car is ALH 90HP.

Could also be a MAP problem.

See http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/168119-map-and-n75/page__p__2046136__fromsearch__1entry2046136

Edited 20 January, 201115 yr by lumac999

Pretty sure mine is ASV, £40 sounds more sensible. I was wondering about MAP - I might start a new thread, looking at this from a different angle.