I'm planning on doing my cv joint this weekend, how hard is it to do? Any advice would be much appreciated. At the moment I'm planning in following the Haynes manual which sometimes shows the hard way lol

What tools are needed? Such as what sized bolt thingy is needed for the drive shaft?

I replaced my front wheel bearing,s on my mk1 octy vrs,the hub nut was a weird multi-faced nut,not a normal nut as such,i cant remember which socket i used as thankfully i had one that fitted in my tool collection! Once thats undone it should be a straight foward if slightly messy job,brake caliper out the way & ball joint out of hub the driveshaft should pull out of hub,cut clips off,knock joint off driveshaft & remove & fit new boot etc.

So I don't need to take the whole drive shaft off like the Haynes says? Need to know weather to buy a drive shaft bolt thingy lol

Might buy a set hopefully the motor factors has a gearbox seal in after another look it looks abit damp down there after reading the Haynes again it says it needs changing anyways. Got the cv joint kit and that's the only part missing, has a hub nut but no seal. Haynes don't say owt about removing the caliper?

Edited 28 January, 201115 yr by Raf_75

personaly- for the sake of a splined tool (cant remember the size :( ) i'd go with getting it off the car onto the bench- makes life alot easier.. imho

personaly- for the sake of a splined tool (cant remember the size :( ) i'd go with getting it off the car onto the bench- makes life alot easier.. imho

from what i can remember (its been a long time since ive changed an octy driveshaft) it was 30 or 32mm 16 point driveshaft nut (the usual socket shape..)

18mm springs to mind for the balljoint nut.. and i cant remeber for the life of me the driveshaft spline size (if i had to guess it would be either 6mm or 8mm)

1)with car on ground and gear engaged, get a decent sized bar onto socket on driveshaft nut- you may end up standing on it to shift it (anticlockwise)

2) slacken all wheelstuds.

3) jack up (place axlestand under- you really dont want it falling on you :S ) remove wheel.

4) undo the driveshaft inner 'spline bolts' should be enough give in joint to move the joint out of the 'cup' -if so you do not need to do '5'

5) undo balljoint nut- might need to 'smack' hub to release taper or use balljoint seperator (seperators usualy tear the little balljoint boot)

6) slide driveshaft out of hub -

7)driveshaft free

i havnt a clue of the top pof my head regarding torque settings- the hub nut is up very tight. make sure it goes up to the same torque..

hth

I've been lucky turns out my m8 has the splined bits and I have the rest of the tools, just need the gearbox seals and its all go on Sunday.

The manual says that you have to undo the hub nut when its unladen or the wheel bearing will get damaged is that just Haynes being over cautious or true? Would prefer to do it on the ground seems a lot easier.

Hub nuts a 30mm, 12 point nut instead of 6 as per usual, halfrods sell socket that fits cos thats what i used

I found a big punch handy aswell for when you undo hub nut to smack driveshaft back out of hub cos the driveshafts **** tight into wheel bearings for some reason even covered in coppper grease, dont just smack end of driveshaft with hammer you will bugger threads up and not be able to get nut back on, undo the nut so it just off end of driveshaft, put a punch onto end of driveshatf and smack it back, once loose remove nut

I'd take the 3 13mm out that holds the ball joint to bottom if i was you, easier that taking ball joint nut off or having it start spinning when you put it back on

As for cv joint not a clue not had to strip driveshaft on it yet

you can always get someone to hold the brake pedal down when the wheel is off the ground and try doing it like that? give that a go first- but they are up very tight.. :S

I've been lucky turns out my m8 has the splined bits and I have the rest of the tools, just need the gearbox seals and its all go on Sunday.

The manual says that you have to undo the hub nut when its unladen or the wheel bearing will get damaged is that just Haynes being over cautious or true? Would prefer to do it on the ground seems a lot easier.

you won't get socket through middle of wheel its too big

jack it up, remove wheel, put wheel studs back in else you will snap little bolt holding brake disc on then get a friend to hold foot on brake while you undo nut

you can always get someone to hold the brake pedal down when the wheel is off the ground and try doing it like that? give that a go first- but they are up very tight.. :S

Thanks for all the help n advice everyone

Well that's me peed off with dm Keith seems their new policy is not to give parts numbers out to.stop people going to other vag garages for parts. All I wanted was a drive shaft seal that costs £2.86. phoned jct600 and the guy couldn't be more helpful, guy took the details asked for my phone number and called back 15 mins later after searching for the part numbers etc. Guy at jct600 said there's no point in not giving part numbers out as if they don't have it in stock of course you'd go somewhere elsei!

gonna email dm Keith and explain how their new policy has lost them a repeat customer. I'm gonna start using the Audi and Volkswagen garages around the corner from them from now on lol

I use vagcat to get a lot of my part numbers, as quite often the dealer does not know what they are (or can't find them on ETKA)