Issues and I am away from home!

[DBP]

Hi all, I was out to dinner with the GF last night and the engine light came on. So I popped the bonnet and I could hear a hiss coming from the throttle body side. By the time I drove back to her flat, what can only be described as the gearbox warning light came on, had a picture of an oil can inside it. So I revved the car and it idled at 1000 for a second before it went down. It kept doing this and the higher I revved the longer it took to come down.

At the mo I am stuck in bognor so I don't have my bits on me to VagCom it. From what I have said will it be drivable to get from Bognor to bournemouth. all motorway driving?

I have a bag of tools with me and a halfords near by.

[STSKODA]

oilcan sounds liek oil pressure warning light - i'd play safe and get it checked by a mechanic - the 1.8T is notorious for blocking the oil strainer and if you drive it like that the engine prob will be written off.

get them to check engine oil level is ok - if light is still on get it recovered (DO NOT DRIVE) to a garage and get them to drop the sump and inspect the oil pickup strainer.

[DBP]

the light is inside the gearbox logo. Its not th actual oil light itself.

[DBP]

Just went and checked now and that light is no longer on and it has stopped idelling at 1000 but there is still quite a air leak sort of noise coming from under the throttle body and a large release of air when you turn the car off.

[phil08]

It's clearly not running right...dash lights are there to warn you of a problem and usually it's a case of stop driving the car and get it look at before you do more damage.

I seem to remember a number of people here ignoring dash lights and having severe problems for it!!

[Bowders1]

Hi Buddy just got your test.

Could by Seconadry air pump leak.

Clearly something has either popped off or is not tight enough or split.

Get it diagnosed buddy.

Take some pics with your phone to identify where the sound is coming from may helps us a little more.

Also take pic of the dash light that is on.

A pic paints a thousands words

[mountie66]

Also look at the pipe that comes off throttle body as they can split due to expansion all the time...

[DBP]

Cant see anything. I think it is behind the intake manifold from the sound of it.

Mark - if that is the case, will I be able to drive it or am I looking at recovery?

[DBP]

Also look at the pipe that comes off throttle body as they can split due to expansion all the time...

I felt the pipe and it seemed to be fine.

[pauldazzle]

The light on the dash is the engine management light, which comes on if the ECU detects a fault. Looks like you have a lot of oil leakage in the last pic, which is usually caused by split pipe work around the inlet manifold. If the hissing coming from that area I'd suspect a split vacuum or boost pipe.

[DBP]

I have recovery on the way now so hopefully it won't be long till I am home and I can VagCom it.

If it is vacuum pipes/boost pipes what sort of price am I looking at to fix it?

[pauldazzle]

I'd be surprised if you don't find it's thrown the 17705 code (pressure drop between throttle body & turbo).

VAG dealers do a complete set of the small boost pipes, but charge about £60!! The cheapest way is to replace all the small pipes with silicone ones or bypass the whole N249 mess that sits under the inlet manifold.

[pauldazzle]

There's a larger pipe that comes from the bottom of the inlet manifold to the lower PCV that is prone to splitting, & judging by the amount of oil you have splattered around I would have a good look at that 1st.

[DBP]

Controller: 06A 906 032 HN

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002

Coding: 11500

Shop #: WSC 31480

3 Faults Found:

17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

P1355 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16486 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0102 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1136 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.LBL

Controller: 1C0 907 379 K

Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103

Coding: 0021505

Shop #: WSC 31480

1 Fault Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

This is what was thrown up.

Make any sense to anyone?

[DBP]

Just reading ross tec website and it seems like it is going to be the MAF or SAS. I unplugged the MAF and it didn't do anything until I plugged it back in then the engine chugged then went back to normal. So is my main option to pull the vac lines?

17763/P1355 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

Possible Causes

* Faulty Ignition coil(s) with output stage

* Fuse(s) faulty

* Wiring and/or Connector(s) from coil(s) to ECM faulty

16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low

Possible Causes

* Wiring and/or connections (short circuit?)

* Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70) defective

17544/P1136/004406 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean

Possible Solutions

* Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

* Check Fuel Pressure Regulator

* Check Fuel Pump

* Check Intake/Exhaust System for Leaks

* Check Secondary Air Injection for Leaks

* Check Vacuum Lines for Leaks

[Bowders1]

Just reading ross tec website and it seems like it is going to be the MAF or SAS. I unplugged the MAF and it didn't do anything until I plugged it back in then the engine chugged then went back to normal. So is my main option to pull the vac lines?

17763/P1355 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

Possible Causes

* Faulty Ignition coil(s) with output stage

* Fuse(s) faulty

* Wiring and/or Connector(s) from coil(s) to ECM faulty

16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low

Possible Causes

* Wiring and/or connections (short circuit?)

* Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70) defective

17544/P1136/004406 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean

Possible Solutions

* Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

* Check Fuel Pressure Regulator

* Check Fuel Pump

* Check Intake/Exhaust System for Leaks

* Check Secondary Air Injection for Leaks

* Check Vacuum Lines for Leaks

It is always best to clear faults and re run the diagnostics as some faults stay in memory and are not current faults.

But i would be more likely to think that is it the "S" pipe that comes down from the inlet manifold.

this one.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/ES240211/

i have a brand new one if needed.

[DBP]

It is always best to clear faults and re run the diagnostics as some faults stay in memory and are not current faults.

But i would be more likely to think that is it the "S" pipe that comes down from the inlet manifold.

this one.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-R32_MKIV--3.2/ES240211/

i have a brand new one if needed.

I only have the shareware version of Vag com. Can I still clear it with that or do I need the full version?

I put in the Oil Catch Can so I shouldn't need that pipe or is that a different one?

It has quite thick white smoke coming from the exhaust so it it running rather rich at the moment.

[pauldazzle]

I only have the shareware version of Vag com. Can I still clear it with that or do I need the full version?

I put in the Oil Catch Can so I shouldn't need that pipe or is that a different one?

It has quite thick white smoke coming from the exhaust so it it running rather rich at the moment.

White smoke means it is running lean, or you have a blown head gasket.

The pipe Bowders1 is referring to is the one I mentioned earlier, & I would think its a prime candidate for all the oil splatter.

[DBP]

White smoke means it is running lean, or you have a blown head gasket.

The pipe Bowders1 is referring to is the one I mentioned earlier, & I would think its a prime candidate for all the oil splatter.

Don't say that lol. How much is it to replace a head gasket on a VAG engine? The water seems fine and the normal tale tale signs don't appear to be visable. It doesnt appear to be running rough or juddery at all. The only thing is that it idles before it drops down on the Revs but only really when it is hot.

As regards to the oil.. when I topped it up today it glugged and a fair bit spilt down the front of the engine.

With that pipe, where am I exactly looking?

So I have the inlet mani (large bar with four pipes going into engine block)? Where do I want to go next?

If that pipe isn't broken what do I want to check for next?

Since I am back home I can now get proper photos and tests done I will get more done in the morning. I will video the engine so you can hear and see what I can.

[Bowders1]

I only have the shareware version of Vag com. Can I still clear it with that or do I need the full version?

I put in the Oil Catch Can so I shouldn't need that pipe or is that a different one?

It has quite thick white smoke coming from the exhaust so it it running rather rich at the moment.

Yes you can clear codes with the shareware version.

Oil catch can is nothing to do with that pipe as it is stil lfitted regardlss of having a OCC fitted.

If you have white smoke you have a oil leak somewhere.

Nothing to do with running rich i expect, but more to do with your oil leak.

With that pipe, where am I exactly looking?

So I have the inlet mani (large bar with four pipes going into engine block)? Where do I want to go next?

If that pipe isn't broken what do I want to check for next?

Since I am back home I can now get proper photos and tests done I will get more done in the morning. I will video the engine so you can hear and see what I can.

You would be looking under the manifold, between the 2nd and 3rd pipe to block. it is connected to one of the metal tubes coming off under the manifold, and goes down to the big pipe on the block.

First confirm you can see the pipe and then we can go from there before anything else can be suggested, one step and a time buddy.

[pauldazzle]

You'll probably have to take the black plate that attaches to the front of the manifold off to get at the S pipe which if I remember correctly is secured to the underside of the manifold with a crimp type pipe clip. The other end is connected to the PCV that sits in a large rubber T piece on the lower right of the engine block.

[DBP]

I didn't take the plate off, I just rummaged around underneath and managed to find the leak! There was lots of black oil and broken rubber everywhere. I found a finger tip sized hole in a very thin piece of piping. I covered it up/it sucked my finger in and the noise had disappeared. I don't know if it is the "S" pipe but it seemed to be part of a bigger cluster of small pipes

[pauldazzle]

Ah it was one of the vacuum pipes then. From your photo looks like the single pipe coming out of the Y suction pump.

[Bowders1]

I still think it is the "S" pipe.

Undo the metal bracket to get better access.

and then hold it out the way and take a better pic.

[DBP]

I still think it is the "S" pipe.

Undo the metal bracket to get better access.

and then hold it out the way and take a better pic.

Sorry, the camera didn't want to play ball. Can try for a better picture if needed.

So what is my next plan of action?

Edited 21 March, 2011 by DBP