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Octvia 4x4 electrics

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Bought the Octavia a few days ago, I'm sure the electric windows and central locking(from key fob) worked when i looked/test drove the car. I locked the car with the key when i got it home as the fob didn't work, then after playing with my new toy for a bit I realsied the elec windows didn't work so I rang the trader I bought it from. He said I should check the fuses, when I did check them one was missing(noticed the contacts) and upon fitting the fuse everything worked as it should. But now everynight about the time it gets dark/damp the electrics play up, the central locking will unlock itself(never locks itself), interior lights come on as car unlocks, windows/sunroof don't work, interior lights flash on/off and the central locking doesn't work on the fob, can hear a relay click behind the dash when this happens, everything happens at once but at random intervals sometimes 5 mins then 5 times in a matter of seconds, if I remove the fuse that was missing it will stay locked. After about 10am if I put the fuse back in, everything will be fine all day untill it gets dark again. If I leave the car alone and don't unlock it after it's dark it will be fine all night.

From what i've read on hear it sounds like the convenience module, can someone please clear up my confusion about where it is please? some people say in the boot around the CD changer(all i've got under my changer is a mess of wires some of which have been tampered with, but no box), some people say in a footwell and others say behind the dash with a section in the drivers door too. Think I found the bit in the door, black box attached to the window motor with a large multiplug, cleaned that this morning with contact cleaner and had no sign of ever been wet/damp. problems are still there tonight after got home at 10.

Anybody got any thoughts on my problem? also will a fuse with the wrong(too low) rating cause problems?

Are you basically saying your car's afraid of the dark ? :giggle:

Don't think an incorrect fuse size will have any effect other than blowing more readily.

Get the car onto VAGCOM/VCDS asap.

Sounds like you need to have a word with the trader too ~ from what you say it sounds like they knew it and tried to hide the fact from you :dull:

It would seem like the trader you got it from was trying to hide it.

I would take it back and have them fix it.

If thay say no then i would say thay new it was bad and as he pointed you to the fuse right away i would say thay removed it in the 1st place to sell the car.

yes, up to the trader to fix it, reject the car if they get arsey

the 3 areas you may have an issue are as follows:

- drivers door wiring loom corroded/pins broken at the large multiplug connector

- drivers door window motor/regulator knackered (sound like you found this in door ok)

- convenience module faulty/burned out (this can be seen if you peek under the steering wheel trim - it lies underneath where the speedo dials etc are - lower drivers side dash off to inspect.

last thing to say is if drivers door LED is constantly on there is still a fault - normal operation is it stays off until doors are locked, and then blinks on and off

good luck... :thumbup:

  • Author

been on the phone to the dealer pretty much everyday(although he's not answering today) since i got it trying to sort it, i am currently waiting to hear from him. He said he would speak to his mechanic, which he has done and now waiting for the mechanic to go through some paperwork for work he did on a skoda with similar problems(central locking was bouncing on that one). have had the black box out this morning to have a look inside and can't see any obvious wrong with it( all looks clean and shiny like its new) but i suppose that doesn't mean there is nothing wrong with one of the components in it.

Really don't want to reject the car as I love it and have already spent a couple of hundred to get it re-mapped.

If i change the box myself(going to have a look round local scrappies for one) will it need to be programmed in any way or is it plug and play?

If it does need programing is it straight forward with vagcom? as I have a mate from work with all the gear that i should be borrowing tonight.

Thanks for the help so far, must say I love this site, very helpful people on here thanks

is the door led on?

more common for the multiplug connector to go tbh - get the dealer to pay for a skoda diagnosis of the problem - or see if anyone with VAG COM can help you

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When everything is working the door led flashes when the doors are locked and is off when unlocked. When it's playing up its the same although it only stays locked for about 30 seconds. Should hopefully have vagcom tonight so I'll post any faults i find

  • Author

When everything is working the door led flashes when the doors are locked and is off when unlocked. When it's playing up its the same although it only stays locked for about 30 seconds. Should hopefully have vagcom tonight so I'll post any faults i find

sounds like a dodgy loom connection then, although VAG COM could uncover something else

only other thing I can suggest trying (and check the other option before this) is to check the connectors in the other doors, and the wiper motor connector.

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Had a quick look on VAGCOM and it shows 'no communication with central convenience module - Intermitant' so I'm thinking along the lines of dodgy wiring.

The wiring loom in the boot has been messed about with, as in lots of wires joined with bullet type connectors, and a few that look like they're just twisted together with electrical tape round them! and all the wires in the loom are coved in a yellow grease? Could this be the cause?

I've got eleven days off work now with the bank holidays so going to have a good check through the wiring starting with the mess in the boot, which multiplug are you refering to ST? the big one in the drivers door on the bottom of the window regulator? if so i've check and cleaned that one.

P.S sorry for double post, teach me to check the forums on my phone with dodgy wi-fi at work lol

which multiplug are you refering to ST? the big one in the drivers door on the bottom of the window regulator? if so i've check and cleaned that one.

yes !

I'd try the other ones in the other doors, but an easier way may be to "borrow" or buy a central convenience module and then you can rule that one out

they can easily get damaged by short circuits and it wouldn't necessarily be visible on the circuit board - might save you hours and hours of tracing wires

if you get this at a scrappy - get the drivers door loom too as they are known to fail and this would be the next thing i'd replace

Edited by STSKODA

  • Author

I have narrowed it down to the wiring loom in the boot, was playing with it earlier and the interior lights kept going on and off.

Also the car is behaving itself tonight after I've disturbed the wires today.

Managed to get hold of the dealer today too and he said he would try and get hold of a new convenience module for my and post it so i can fit it( I dont mind fitting it, I enjoy working on my cars. good job really with my track record!) so i should have a spare box soon.

I also had a proper look with vagcom and got a few codes which i'll put in a new thread

  • Author

Think I have fixed it :D went through the mess in the boot and re-did all dodgey connections, one of the earth wires wasn't connected at all, was just wrapped together with another earth wire with electrical tape :dull: all wires are now connected and protected properly and so far all seems to be fine

very good - is convenience unit working ok then?

  • Author

sorted the wiring yesterday and yes everything is working fine, doesn't unlock itself any more at night and the windows and things work all the time now, so hopefully its sorted, still waiting for dealer to get back to me about sourcing a new ccm, which I am still going to accept( mainly because he wouldn't budge on the price at all) and either sell it on or leave it in the shed as a spare.

  • Author
:dull: Electrics are playing up again tonight :dull: going to have to go through the door looms tomorrow

Still scared of the dark then. Maybe it needs a night light to keep it company :giggle:

I would keep pushing the dealer for a new convenience module as well.

+1; maybe they should be paying for a auto-electrician to have a look too

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Still scared of the dark then. Maybe it needs a night light to keep it company :giggle:

Apparently so lol.it's under a street light though, maybe it's just trying to get away from the mazda 121(fiesta) thats on the drive too lol

Thinking it might be water/damp getting in one of the doors, been fine last couple of days while it's been really warm/hot during the day so think it dried it out abit, I gave it a good wash and polish yesterday, didn't even move it all day so think more of damp/wet. Going to check the other doors today( seal at the bottom of passenger side rear door doesn't look like a very good fit, while i was washing it i noticed it could be pushed down( the edge along the window can fold under itself) if that makes sense.

dealer is supposed to be getting me a new module but with the bank holidays it's taking a while.

Edited by 4x4 1.8t Octy

  • Author

had the rear passenger side door card off yesterday(monday) can see the water marks on the clear plastic that covers the inside of the door, disconnected everything in the door and cleaned all the contacts, put it all back together and checked and cleaned the main loom connection in the rubber between the door and the pillar. Then waited for it to get dark again.

And it's still playing up(just been out and tried it)

Next idea, my outside temperature sensor doesn't work, does anyone know if the central convenience module has anything to do with this sensor. Or more importantly will a buggered temp sensor affect the module at all? that's the only other thing i can think off with it been related to night therefore colder.

Surely if it was just the module that was bust it would play up all the time and not just at night, while it's warm/hot during the day it's fine then when it starts to get dark/colder it starts to play up again(all is fine at night provided I don't unlock the car)

  • Author

Thanks mate, think mine is down to some damaged looms in the doors.

rear door on drivers side central locking stopped working last night, stripped the door today and found two wires( thickest two, one brown and one red with brown stripe) that had the insulation missing(worn through) on the part that enters the door. and one wire that had snapped( just held together with a tiny part of the insulation) and the ends had gone green. sorted these wires and the door now locks and unlocks as it should but general electrics are still playing up so need to check more wiring :dull:

  • 9 months later...
  • Author

Thought it was time for an update on the electrics, They're still not fixed. worked fine all through the summer untill it got to end of october/ start of november then all started playing up again. got fed up of it so just took the fuse out and has stayed like this since. had another look through the wiring looms in the doors and boot over the weekend but have not got any closer so solving it.

If i put the fuse in the ccm box clicks in a pattern, it will click 3 times then pause for 30 seconds then click 3 times again then pause for 30 seconds again and just continues with this pattern.

If I turn the ignition on while the fuse is in and leave a door open the ccm just goes nuts and clicks constantly and rapidly, if i close the door it stops clicking but open any door or switch any interior light on and it goes nuts again, turn the ignition off and its still fine, take the key out the ignition and it goes back to its pattern of 3 clicks every 30 seconds.

I did finally get a replacement ccm from the dealer i bought the car from but as everything was working by this time its just been sat in the shed, swaped it for mine today and it works better than mine but not right. with the replacement ccm the central locking does not work on the fob and if i unlock the car with the key the central locking works but the indicators flash for a while when i open the doors, so i have swaped the ccm back to the original and removed the fuse.

I have tried to eliminate all the door looms by disconnecting them at the multiplugs but even with the wiring disconnected the ccm still clicks in the same pattern

anyone have any ideas?

does the replacement ccm need coding to my car?

is it likely my ccm is just dead?

any help is muchly appreciated as i'm running out of ideas

there are many many threads on this

apparantly if you can lock the other doors using the drivers door panel ccm is fine

also if you can adjust the door mirrors ok the regulator is fine too

so that leaves either the door loom or the door lock mechanism - both are not cheap and i'd be inclined to get a proper VCDS scan done first to try and pinpoint the fault

  • Author

Thanks ST, went through all that last year when i first had the problems, was scaned with vag com which came up with an intermitent communication fault with the ccm box ( and loads of other stuff but they're not related)

the ccm black box in the dash still clicks and plays up even with the drivers door loom unplugged inside the car, I unplugged them all today and it still does it. to me that rules out any dodgey wiring in the door looms and points more to the box it's self ( I may be wrong) if the broken wires or defective part is not plugged in it shouldn't affect the rest of the system.

all the locks work fine as long as i leave the fuse out, with the fuse in place the car will try to unlock itself 3 times every 30 seconds. with the fuse in the electric windows work but only move about 1mm every 30 seconds or so if i hold the button, but the remote locking doesn't work at all even with the fuse in. seems like there is a power problem with the box, when you first plug the box in or replace the fuse all the locks try to unlock once, it seems the black ccm box only gets power/supplies power for 3 short instances every 30 seconds or so.

And the more i've typed and thought about it i think i may have answered my questions my self, my ccm box is dead

From what i can gather from all the stuff i've read about this problem a replacement ccm box needs to be programmed to the car.

I shall be calling skoda tomorrow to find out if this is true and how much they will charge for the procedure

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