Hi all

Have now installed a Westfalia swan neck fixed Towbar and simple electrics on my std SE

The towbar went on a treat, using comments etc elsewhere on the Yeti forum, the bumper skirt was cut to just allow the bar to protrude so no unsightly holes - notes most useful!

The electrics caused a little head scratching, but eventually got there using the following system:-

The 2 x rear black plastics panels were sprung outwards having removed the 3x torx screws per panel, there are 2 x hidden behind the small upper white panel which unclip!

Access to the looms is then possible, i used the supplied TEB7AS relay, the relay was installed in the nearside area neccesitating the extension of the earth lead and also the offside sidelight , indicator and foglight cables(don't try this in France Halfords etc do not exist so small pieces of cable are non existant) - I used the cores of a piece of old 7 core trailer electrics cable,

the cables were then joined to the existing looms using the supplied scotchlock conns. Whilst in the panels I made up a lead with a 0.32mm spade conn for the n/s foglight, this was then fitted in the multi plug and tested - it worked! The other end was joined to the trailer foglight lead, All leads then screwed into the relay terminal block. a temporary lead was connected to the busbar in the cabin fuse box the various lights were then checked - all worked even the n/s rear foglight - brilliant!

Trailer connected and retested - all worked - smug grin!!

Now need to run the supply from the fuse box to the rear - probably pushed up behind the black plastic door surrounds ie to the top of the carpeting - should fit there ok without deformation of the plastic etc

Will mount some links to pics of the towbar when I can locate my digi camera.

comments please!

salut

tony

Edited 31 May, 201115 yr by Frenchtone

On the front of the fuse box within the engine bay, there are several 6mm live terminals you can use to provide a live feed.

When my 13pin wiring was installed, they lifted the door trim by the left front seat, and spliced their live from there, with a fuse for protection; this live was for my fridge feed on the trailer tent. I assume that they didn't use the obvious connection on the front fuse box, as it was easier not to run a cable from inside the cabin into the engine bay.

They did not use scotch locks, but stripped the insulation off, and soldered the wires together, and covered the joint with insulation tape :wonder:

Hi all

Have now installed a Westfalia swan neck fixed Towbar and simple electrics on my std SE

The towbar went on a treat, using comments etc elsewhere on the Yeti forum, the bumper skirt was cut to just allow the bar to protrude so no unsightly holes - notes most useful!

The electrics caused a little head scratching, but eventually got there using the following system:-

The 2 x rear black plastics panels were sprung outwards having removed the 3x torx screws per panel, there are 2 x hidden behind the small upper white panel which unclip!

Access to the looms is then possible, i used the supplied TEB7AS relay, the relay was installed in the nearside area neccesitating the extension of the earth lead and also the offside sidelight , indicator and foglight cables(don't try this in France Halfords etc do not exist so small pieces of cable are non existant) - I used the cores of a piece of old 7 core trailer electrics cable,

the cables were then joined to the existing looms using the supplied scotchlock conns. Whilst in the panels I made up a lead with a 0.32mm spade conn for the n/s foglight, this was then fitted in the multi plug and tested - it worked! The other end was joined to the trailer foglight lead, All leads then screwed into the relay terminal block. a temporary lead was connected to the busbar in the cabin fuse box the various lights were then checked - all worked even the n/s rear foglight - brilliant!

Trailer connected and retested - all worked - smug grin!!

Now need to run the supply from the fuse box to the rear - probably pushed up behind the black plastic door surrounds ie to the top of the carpeting - should fit there ok without deformation of the plastic etc

Will mount some links to pics of the towbar when I can locate my digi camera.

comments please!

salut

tony

Hi Tony

as the other poster says Don't use Scotch-locks ! They will let you down in years to come, you need to solder them for reliability

and the other thing you mention is the cable to the rear, the best way to do this is run the cable down from the engine compartment,

along the chassis leg to the rear of the car,and connect direct to the battery via fuse as close to the battery as you can, don't use a

connection on a fuse box etc,as it could be part of the can-bus wiring and poss destroy the ecu.

and the other thing, use as thick a cable as you can, as the current that is being drawn is quite high, and of course the length is

quite long, and you will get a high volts drop.

most people will say 2.5mm is ok, but I would use nearer 10mm, as you need as higher voltage at the caravan as possible

Radiotwo

Another one who would counsel against scotchlok connectors, they are a bodge and often cut not just through the insulation but into the core. They can cause mechanical weakness and do act as a focus for corrosion.

With a canbus system you may end up with fault signals.

Hi all

Thanks for the advice, will look at options later today! - by chassis member you mean the inner bend floor /sill box I assume?

Voltage drop re fridges etc don't really apply as i tow a trailer, and various boat trailers, all less than 500kg(1/2 ton) - I restore Classic Sailing Dinghies, and drag 'em to France as conditions are better here for the curing of lotions and potions!

Tony

Hi all

Have now installed a Westfalia swan neck fixed Towbar and simple electrics on my std SE

The towbar went on a treat, using comments etc elsewhere on the Yeti forum, the bumper skirt was cut to just allow the bar to protrude so no unsightly holes - notes most useful!

The electrics caused a little head scratching, but eventually got there using the following system:-

The 2 x rear black plastics panels were sprung outwards having removed the 3x torx screws per panel, there are 2 x hidden behind the small upper white panel which unclip!

Access to the looms is then possible, i used the supplied TEB7AS relay, the relay was installed in the nearside area neccesitating the extension of the earth lead and also the offside sidelight , indicator and foglight cables(don't try this in France Halfords etc do not exist so small pieces of cable are non existant) - I used the cores of a piece of old 7 core trailer electrics cable,

the cables were then joined to the existing looms using the supplied scotchlock conns. Whilst in the panels I made up a lead with a 0.32mm spade conn for the n/s foglight, this was then fitted in the multi plug and tested - it worked! The other end was joined to the trailer foglight lead, All leads then screwed into the relay terminal block. a temporary lead was connected to the busbar in the cabin fuse box the various lights were then checked - all worked even the n/s rear foglight - brilliant!

Trailer connected and retested - all worked - smug grin!!

Now need to run the supply from the fuse box to the rear - probably pushed up behind the black plastic door surrounds ie to the top of the carpeting - should fit there ok without deformation of the plastic etc

Will mount some links to pics of the towbar when I can locate my digi camera.

comments please!

salut

tony

Sounds cool, what were the costs of doing it yourself?

Sounds cool, what were the costs of doing it yourself?

Total costs about £160 - Bar/electrics(£145) from PF Jones supplied to UK address - includes spray can for area where the original box section mounted behind the bumper - note, used Peugeot Cossak Grey, an almost match to my steel grey colour - but of course it doesn't show!

Time taken, about 5 hours total, spread over a week, the main time element being the dismantling of the various aspects(new vehicle etc)

Re corrosion of scotchlocks, forgor to add, yes, aware of the problem - now use waxoyl over the cables and internals of scotchlocks - used this method on 2x Berlingo bar electrics without problem one for over 6 years.

Edited 1 June, 201115 yr by Frenchtone

Hi all

Thanks for the advice, will look at options later today! - by chassis member you mean the inner bend floor /sill box I assume?

Voltage drop re fridges etc don't really apply as i tow a trailer, and various boat trailers, all less than 500kg(1/2 ton) - I restore Classic Sailing Dinghies, and drag 'em to France as conditions are better here for the curing of lotions and potions!

Tony

So why do you need a wire running to the back ?

Radiotwo

So why do you need a wire running to the back ?

Radiotwo

'permanently on' 12v supply to trailer relay and also trailer light power supply - think the relay is electronic(transistor?)and each core is triggered as required

hope this is correct and it helps

salut

tony

on the forum you refer to the lh front seat and a panel with electrics behind, 'a' pillar, front end, or 'b' pillar, ie between front and rear doors.

I've looked at the bulkhead etc today but can't easily find a route thro to engine compartment / fusebox

getting a bit p*ssed off with this now!

any help / direction welcomed

salut

You're probably correct, and thats why the chaps who installed my electrics didn't bother taking the live from the fuse box, rather, they spliced into an existing wire

on the forum you refer to the lh front seat and a panel with electrics behind, 'a' pillar, front end, or 'b' pillar, ie between front and rear doors.

I've looked at the bulkhead etc today but can't easily find a route thro to engine compartment / fusebox

getting a bit p*ssed off with this now!

any help / direction welcomed

salut

You're probably correct, and thats why the chaps who installed my electrics didn't bother taking the live from the fuse box, rather, they spliced into an existing wire

Good view of location of fuse, however, where did they pick up the feed to the fuse obviously nearer the dashboard or 'A' pillar but not visible in the pic

salut

You can see in the picture, the live is taken from the red/yellow wire

You can see in the picture, the live is taken from the red/yellow wire

Ok point taken, now cleaned my glasses, - looked at the area, not happy with the fuse being hidden, so with my multimeter and a pin, found a large diam cable which is live feeding the blower(?) unit behind the glove box, tee'd off that, and mounted the 25A fuse and holder under the semi rigid foam under the dash - it's now easily accessible.

Photo's to follow!

After this sort of farce, I reckon the whole thing could have been achieved in the oft quoted 4 hours maybe slightly less - if the installation notes etc had been slightly more informative.

If there is interest I will attempt to put a guide together for future suckers! - let me know!

Salut

Tony

Ok point taken, now cleaned my glasses, - looked at the area, not happy with the fuse being hidden, so with my multimeter and a pin, found a large diam cable which is live feeding the blower(?) unit behind the glove box, tee'd off that, and mounted the 25A fuse and holder under the semi rigid foam under the dash - it's now easily accessible.

Photo's to follow!

After this sort of farce, I reckon the whole thing could have been achieved in the oft quoted 4 hours maybe slightly less - if the installation notes etc had been slightly more informative.

If there is interest I will attempt to put a guide together for future suckers! - let me know!

Salut

Tony

Got the pics now, follow the links

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMGP0118.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMGP0116.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMGP0115.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMGP0114.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMGP0113-1.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i252/stotty1111/IMG_1345.jpg

Excuse the dirty state of the car agriculture here is somewhat dirty, along with recent rain.

The last pic is of a suspension bridge, on a curve, recently opened, the first road bridge on a curve in the world designed etc by the same outfit that did the Millau bridge in southern France.

Now need to visit ther local dealership, the airbag warning is indicating all the time - is there a reset solution?

salut

Working Pics from Frenchtone's post:

Edited 2 June, 201115 yr by prolfe