Hello peeps

Whilst we're on the subject of steel wheels for your winter rubber, what is the thinking on alloy wheel bolts for steel wheels, or are we already using steel wheel bolts?

Hmmmmmm.

Steel versus alloy strength, torque wrenches, bimetal galvanic corrosion and all that stuff...

The answer's "maybe". My Octy came with 4 alloys and a full-size steel spare that uses the same bolts.

There is only one type of OEM wheel bolt supplied for the Yeti and suitable for both VAG alloys or steel rims. Had no bother with them myself to date.

Regards,

TP

Alloy wheel bolts are rare if they exist at all-alloy fixings into cast steel hubs are a recipe for corrosion and probably lack strength.

Hello peeps

Whilst we're on the subject of steel wheels for your winter rubber, what is the thinking on alloy wheel bolts for steel wheels, or are we already using steel wheel bolts?

Hmmmmmm.

Steel versus alloy strength, torque wrenches, bimetal galvanic corrosion and all that stuff...

Thanks folks.

That answers that one.

My Modus came with a separate box of wheel bolts for the steel space saver spare.

I thought it might be something to do with mixing your materials.

Cheers...

the bolts are steel, they're plated to resist corrosion.

same bolts for both alloy and steel wheels.

the easiest way to preent the dreaded steel/alloy corrosion problem is to smear a thin layer of copper grease on down the threads and round the seat of all the bolts.

you don't need to jack the car up, just do one bolt at a time.

Wouldnt recommend putting copper grease on the stud threads as it reduces frictional grip. Just a smear between the mating faces of the wheel and hub to ease changing wheels.

Wouldnt recommend putting copper grease on the stud threads as it reduces frictional grip. Just a smear between the mating faces of the wheel and hub to ease changing wheels.

never had one come loose yet in 35 years.

if the bolts are torqued up correctly they should be fine.

You should not apply grease to the studs - because the specified torque is based on dry threads. You could be putting 5x the correct shank tension into the stud if you grease and torque. The shank tension is the critical parameter here, the specified torque is just an easily measurable way of getting the right tension in the bolt. There is a lot of tolerance, but equally you could yield or fatigue the bolts. Grease on the hubs is fine.