Here is the update. @wino Checked all fuses and they are fine. All I have done so far since I bought the car in March which has not started yet.

Changed fuel pump

Changed spark plugs and coil

Cleaned the injectors

Car sends fuels, has spark on the three plugs, and Injectors sprays. Battery is new. 

One thing is that my scanner is not communicating with ECU, it would had been easier to identify the problems. 

Now, the mechanic thinks that the old gas accumulated in the tank my had lose the octane and can be contaminated. We will try putting some higher octane 95 and do a compression test. Hoping that valves are not stick.

Any suggestions are more than welcome. 

My first Skoda and is giving me a nightmare. 

Still not able to start the car. Changed the crankshaft sensor. To be honest, I think I am spending in things that is not the problem. The scanner still not communicating with ECU. Pin 6 or Can is dead. I have to check modules, but cannot find where it is? Can anyone confirm if CCU is the one. I need to check ECU, BCM, SRS, the net to get back the lcd to work.

I bought a nightmare

You mentioned a compression test - did you do one and if you did what were the results?

@TMBnot yet. Still waiting to borrow one to properly test it. Will keep you posted 

Update. Still waiting for the compression test. ☹️ Moving forward, I found out that the wiring connector for the Map sensor is not throwing any voltage at all. Will check tomorrow every single wire to see. Does anyone knows if there is a fuse or relay connected to this loom? May save me some time. 

MAP sensor power is a 5V feed on the red/green wire from engine ECU pin 96. Cam sensor uses same 5V. Will only be present with ignition on or engine running, I think. 
 

Thanks @wino I got the 5 volts on both so they are fine. Plug back everything and car still cranks but not starting. Any other idea where to check? I also don't get any reading on lcd pins 6 and 14 for the scanner 

I don't know what you mean by lcd?

 

I would check the chain timing while waiting for compression test.

You can do this without the special locking tools by taking out the spark plugs, setting the engine to top dead centre on No.1 cylinder then taking the cover caps off from over the ends of the camshafts near the battery box.  The slots in the camshafts should be parallel to the the head/block joint, and aligned with each other.

Thanks for the advice. Sorry about lcd, what I meant was the obd2 port. Cannot diagnose due to pins 6 and 14 not getting any reading on my multimeter. 

I think camshaft are not aligned properly. See pictures attached. From the photo view I noticed that the one on the left is off by a bit with the right. Can this affect the starting problem? 

Yes it can. A lot.

@sepulchrave@Wino Here is the update guys. Put the timing and camshaft as specified by the book. Car started, but the engine shakes like crazy, and when pressing the gas pedal does not accelerate and stays at idle rpm. So I decided to change the camshaft sensor and still with the same problem. Any feedback to where to look further, please

I would check compression if were you, the valves may well have been damaged by the slipped timing.

Same here. 

Well guys. I decided to buy a compression tester and proceed with the test, and there are not good news. Cylinder 1 and 3 are dead. Cylinder 2 gave me a 11.5 pressure reading. So, after reviewing some of your past advices, now I am to take the engine apart and check for valves, guides, pistons and head gaskets. 

 

TBH with you, this is the first time in my life that a little car gave me so much trouble, but as I go along figuring out the whys and what, I had learned and keep learning a little bit more about engines and how the work. As the process has been frustrating for me, I guess I need to take it easy and take it one step at a time, as one friend mechanic tells me.

 

So, I decided to grab some beer, relax and plan my next move to solve the problem once and for all.

 

Thanks for your help.

My 'like' reaction was to your "beer, relax and plan"; not the bad news of the compression test results, obviously.

 

It's becoming clear only recently to me that when the twin-cam HTPs lose the timing correlation due to chain slipping, valve damage seems common, possibly even inevitable.

I know @Winoand cheers to that. Will take a look at the valves for sure and any other things that  I may encounter through the process. Cheers again

All four-valve engines are the same, even with perfect timing the valves run very close to the piston crown, hence the cutouts.

@sepulchraveThanks for the advice. I will keep that in mind while checking the pistons. I am taking notes guys, so I do not forget, just in case. The old school. LOL

The pistons should be ok, it'll be the valves that are bent and not seating properly.

Hi, i have a 1.4 16v 2005 fabia sport BKY engine. Does start one time then if you have the car off and put the radio on or even just leave it for a while it wont start again it usually cranks but still sometimes doesn't even crank then wait a few minuets more and itll start up straight away. I have had a look at the fuses and they seem to be fine (not sure what to be looking for). Thanks!

1 hour ago, Bjohn2544 said:

Hi, i have a 1.4 16v 2005 fabia sport BKY engine. Does start one time then if you have the car off and put the radio on or even just leave it for a while it wont start again it usually cranks but still sometimes doesn't even crank then wait a few minuets more and itll start up straight away. I have had a look at the fuses and they seem to be fine (not sure what to be looking for). Thanks!

 

Sounds like a duff battery?

 

Does the battery light come on when you put the ignition on (engine not started)?

Yeah, battery light comes on. Will try tomorrow with another battery. Hope it's that simple, the battery dosent seem to hold charge even after being on charge. 

9 minutes ago, Bjohn2544 said:

...the battery dosent seem to hold charge even after being on charge. 

 

That's because it's completely knackered, go and buy another one.

 

Yeah getting 10.3v when car is off but about 14.0v when it's running, does that sound right for a faulty battery? Thanks

10 minutes ago, Bjohn2544 said:

Yeah getting 10.3v when car is off but about 14.0v when it's running, does that sound right for a faulty battery? Thanks

 

Yes, you have a dead cell, I'm in danger of repeating myself here but:

 

Buy

 

A

 

New

 

Battery!

 

Ok?