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100000 mile octavia TDI would you get one?

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Hi everyone,

I've got a Skoda Fabia Vrs 55plate which I've been really happy with but I got a baby and sometimes feel I need more room in the back and boot. I'm thinking of getting skoda octavia II 2.0tdi sport 05 plate independant dealer (not the vrs) but it has nearly 100,000 miles! My question is would you feel comfortable getting a skoda with this higher mileage or would you stay well clear? Has everyone found the octavia generally reliable? I really want something slighty sporty, turbo diesel and family car size for £5k.

Also been considering a BMW 320d (03plate) and a mondeo st 155tdci(55plate)but both also with 100,000 miles but not sure if this could become a bottomless pit if reliabilty becomes an issue.

If anyone got any experience or advice on any of these cars or any others would be a great help.

Best regards,

Noonoo

I had a mark 1 Octavia 1.9 TDi from new which had done 155k when I changed it. Complete service history and cambelt changes when required meant that when I sold it it was still going strong, and the few problems that I had with it were mostly due to my ignorance :blush:

I think if it has a solid service history, and appears well cared for it's worth a punt..for the record I had more problems with an albeit older Mondeo, and as for the Cavalier I had, well don't even go there!

Edited by Hoddhead

hi,last week i spotted a 54 plate white octy vrs with 130,000 miles for £1,995 and a 55 plate silver octy vrs estate with 199,000 on it ,for £1,650,both x police motors skoda has got the reliability .a diesel is just run in at 100,000 miles ! :thumbup:

If it's well looked after & maintained, why not.

100k on a 1.9 I would not be bothered about. 100k on the 2.0 I'm not so sure!

I've got a 2005 2.0 TDI elegance estate approaching that mileage. Overall the normal wear and tear stuff comes around like tyres and brakes but overall I wouldn't be too put off.

The only item that fairly commonly goes is the turbo. Quite a few of us on here have recently experienced this as the 2005 cars approach higher mileage. Ideally if you could find a car with the turbo already changed out you'd get a really good purchase. If turbo failure does happen, it will be around £800 all in for a re-con one fitted.

Only other advice is to get one with a decent service history and cambelt change done etc.

I've driven quite a few Fabia's, the extra room of the Octavia Estate is great for when we go away with kids as the amount of stuff we end up taking is unreal.

Dougall

My car currently has 91,000 on the clock and has the same 2.0 tdi engine, it still drives well and i don't see why it shouldn't last for another 100,000 if I look after it.

However, there are a couple of weak points which include the turbo and AC pump on the BKD engined Octavia, which can be expensive to fix. I have had a new turbo at 54,000 and a AC pump at 60,000 which were thankfully covered by a warranty. There are plenty of threads on these issues if you do a search.

A Shark remap significantly changes the power delivery of this engine, from all or nothing to a much smoother wider power delivery. Having had mine stage 1 for the last 10,000 miles I can highly recommend it!

Matt

My '06 2.0Tdi DSG (BKD) has 423,000kms on it. It has had 2 turbos, 1 under warranty and 1 out of my own pocket which I think is very acceptable given the mileage.

If it has a solid service history, I wouldn't bat an eyelid.

100k on a 1.9 I would not be bothered about. 100k on the 2.0 I'm not so sure!

I would be very happy to get one at that mileage at the right price.

Im on my 4th Octavia now (1.8 TSi) and the 1st 3 were TDIs and I put 80k on them in 18-20 months and never had a problem.

100k is nothing to worry about.

£5000 seems a bit steep to me though just make sure it has good service history and you should be fine,

If its got the history to back it up then yes but i would seriously try and get that asking price down.

Was looking at a superb. Saw a new model superb in autotrader with FSH just above 3 years old ?140CR/170CR elegance version so all dancing and singing but done 120K and asking price was around 7K and new would cost above 22K.

I wouldn't have another BMW. Maybe just the one I had but after 100,000 miles there was something that needed doing every month.

Not normally too much of an issue if it wasn't for the fact that BMW parts (even non-genuine) are exorbitantly expensive, at least compared to Ford, Vauxhall, VAG parts etc.

Mine was a 2002 (52) 320d SE. It had a new engine at 60,000 (swirl valve) - common problem, and a whole host of unexpected niggles including broken suspension springs (common problem), poor quality electric window actuators (common problem, badly earthed tail lights (common problem), clunky auto box (lifetime oil apparently, yeah right!). The list is endless.

Nice car but you need to be prepared to pay for that propeller badge.

People complain about some of the expensive repair bills on their OCtavia's. All I will say is run a high mileage BMW.

I now have two Octavia's, a vRS and Scout. Both will be run til they die!

Hi everyone,

Also been considering a BMW 320d (03plate) and a mondeo st 155tdci(55plate)but both also with 100,000 miles but not sure if this could become a bottomless pit if reliabilty becomes an issue.

I've looked into 320d. Big issues before 06 with swirl flaps (not a huge expense to remove), also prematurely wear out suspension control arms (£300 a side) and turbo issues on 02/03 cars.

Newer bmw dervs need DPFs replaced at about 100k (variable) it's considered a consumable item (£1500). Put me off 525/530s which would probably otherwise be fine at that mileage.

I tested a 330d which had had everything of significance replaced but dealer wanted comedy money for it. So there are cars ready to run out there.

Also they're feckin terrible in the snow unless you get snow tyres.

Mondeo's are known for injector problems, there was another thread with someone looking at the 2.2 and a big list of issues coming up.

Older VW and Audi seem to be a better bet but still any old car can have issues. Dealers are asking silly money for used diesel Golfs. Saw £10k for a 55 plate 2.0tdi just yesterday.

Edited by Aspman

I wouldnt touch a high mileage diesel mondeo or bmw as they have lots of expensive problems,the octy should be ok as long as its got a full service history. I traded my octy vrs petrol(mk1) in with 125k on it & it was still going well.

2.0 TDI DSG is now at 126.000 miles and no problems with turbo or anything else.

As all others have said, check the service history and also have a good look around to see the level of wear and tear. If the service history is there and it looks like it's been well kept then you should consider it. The 100,000 miles isn't and issue, i have a Mk1 110TDi with 106k miles and going as well as it did when i got it with 15k miles on the clock (regular servicing and Millers diesel additive).

With any used car though, think of the running costs you will have to fork out for over and above the purchase price. When were the brakes last done, has the timing belt been changed when it should, is it due a big service, how is the suspension etc etc.

If you are purchasing from a dealer, have diagnostics carried out and get a copy of the report for peace of mind.

Colm

Edit:

I also meant to say, if i were selling my car, all i could tell the buyer is how it is running now. There are no guarantees that even though it runs smoothly today that the turbo won't blow or exhaust fall off tomorrow. However, i would have said the same 3 or 4 years ago when it had half the miles on it. I don't think there are any more guarantees for a 50k car over 100k car when both are looked after properly.

Edited by cmcm789

  • Author

Hi everyone.

Thanks for the replies. According to the dealer its got a full skoda service history and a recent cambelt change so hopefully its in good shape. I reckon the mondeo might be the sportier and better handling but the octy the more sensible and practical choice ( Although you can always get a friday afternoon car).

I've pretty much gone off the bmw idea. I heard of expensive repair bills with the bmw thats partly why I was looking at the ford think it would be cheaper to repair.

I don't know much about a diagnostic is this basically a check to see if ECU and other electronics are working (I'm not the best techinal wise)?

Has anyone experience with Honda Accord 2.2 C-DTI?

A friend of mine has just had to spend £1700 on his accord & it now needs new injectors at £300 a piece,i used to work for honda when they had the best petrol engines around,if i was to buy a honda it would be a petrol,spoke to the lads i used to work with & they say the accord diesels are great when they are working but very expensive when they go wrong.

I paid £7K for my Skoda, from a Skoda Dealer, 06 plate, 38,000 on the clock only. (For your reference)

My 6 yo Passat diesel estate in excellent condition full history etc was only worth £2000 when I traded it in at 136,000 miles a few years ago. So maybe £3000 would be a fairer price?

Local Taxis here have a mix of 1.9 and 2.0 tdi and none of them is under 200.000 km, running fine.

My 2006MY (55 Plate) 2.0 TDI PD140 is at 141K. I bought it with 115K on a year ago.

The dealer had to replace the turbo and flywheel within a month of me getting it, it hasn't missed a beat since, flew through the MoT and returns an average of 49+mpg with a Stage 1 Shark remap.

As long as turbo and flywheel/clutch are OK you should have nothing to worry about.

I have a 57 plate 1.9tdi, bxe engine, currently on 218,000 miles it has been regularly serviced,clutch and dmf was replaced at 183,000, they were still ok, but the dmf had slight play in it, I was just worried that it was going to fail, everything else on the engine is original apart from water pump and cam belt kit, these are replaced at every 80,000 miles.

I think as long as it is regulary serviced the car could last for years.

The only breakdown I have had is a cv joint failing, I heard a noise one morning and drove it for about 60 miles, working as normal drove to the garage and the mechanic snapped the joint within 20 yards of taking it on a test drive. easily repaired with a new joint.

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