As title..

It struck me today (whilst pondering re sealing my door)... That perhaps a putty might work more effectively and last longer? It'd certainly be a lot easier to squeeze and set into a water tight fix. It's flexibility that might be an issue.....

Thoughts please.

Just as an initial finding / thought... Something like this?

I used some Wickes roof and gutter sealant when I did mine and Bezzy's a few months ago, seems to be holding up quite well. It's the sort of "gloop" that never sets and will always stay flexible.

Yeah, I think flexibilty & stickyness are the most important factors.. Think mines failed becuase it's to stiff... although, the back doors have held up for 3 years now on the Window & door sealant..

I'm planning to seal the speaker & it's collar this time as well cuz they're after market.

sikaflex I used as its what people recommend for sealing bbs split rims... more than good enuf for the job

Stick with what is known to work. Sikaflex, roof and gutter sealant, Unibond 3 in 1 sealant all good. Silicon sealant, useless, Dum Dum useless.

I used some Wickes roof and gutter sealant when I did mine and Bezzy's a few months ago, seems to be holding up quite well. It's the sort of "gloop" that never sets and will always stay flexible.

I also used Wickes roof and gutter sealant. Seems to have worked so far. It can also be used in wet conditions which can be handy if your doors are leaking badly.

I've went for unibond roof & gutter sealant and its done a cracking job, quite messy but seals well under wet conditions;)

Well... I ended up going for a full on underwater adhesive.. Once I'd got the old sealant off (Which fetched a few spots of paint off.. opps, guess I'll need a door in a few years then).. The foam was absolutely sopping wet and all the gutter sealant I found said that the application area should be dry...

Now, the thing is, the old sealant had failed a few inches along the bottom and I'm certain that was due to the foam being damp for such long periods,.. So an adhesive that claims to stick to everything, even "under water".. I wasn't sure as I put it on, but as it dries it's setting like a sealant and if it's claims are true then I've high hopes this time! Woooo!

Can't see the fact it's a full on adhesive being and issue as the old non silicon based sealant had stuck fast to the body paint anyways and needed cutting away, so won't make any difference.

Try a few cunningly spaced self tappers too,allied with the sealant all has been spangly since.

Regards

mac

Try a few cunningly spaced self tappers too,allied with the sealant all has been spangly since.

Regards

mac

Won't that cause the door to rot? Self tappers breaking the paint and metal finish in a wet area? That's why I won't be surprised if I get a spot of rust in the future now I've damaged the paint taking the previous seal off. I'm just hoping the new sealant will stop any rot.

After fitting accessories to our motorhome, I think I would use this caravan sealant to cure leaking door carriers.

I just bought a Fabia VRS from a VW main dealer, They re-sealed the door carriers after I spotting water pooled on a rear door seal (even though I only commented on one door, aparently they sealed both). They told me they used a " special putty" to do the job.

After fitting accessories to our motorhome, I think I would use this caravan sealant to cure leaking door carriers.

I just bought a Fabia VRS from a VW main dealer, They re-sealed the door carriers after I spotting water pooled on a rear door seal (even though I only commented on one door, aparently they sealed both). They told me they used a " special putty" to do the job.

That's interesting cuz Skoda apparently use some black un branded gloop.. I'm guessing it's most likely a variant on tiger seal. Maybe VW have a different tube of tricks? Hmmmmm...

Hey guys, I work as an project engineer for high temperature smoke ventilation systems for tunnel and metro applications ( harsh enviroments). From my experience using ht sealants I would suggest the item below, as it works under a large temperature range -60 to 260 deg continuously as well as a large humidity range which means unlike most roof sealants. It won't degrade from winter conditions and contact with oils I.e window mechanism lubricants. However 3 years life out of £10 and 20 minutes work isn't bad really http://www.idealsealants.com/high-temperature-silicone-for-gaskets-red-310ml-siroflex_c38p38.php

( I know a car doesn't reach 260 deg c but it just applies a safety factor to increase the life)

Hey guys, I work as an project engineer for high temperature smoke ventilation systems for tunnel and metro applications ( harsh enviroments). From my experience using ht sealants I would suggest the item below, as it works under a large temperature range -60 to 260 deg continuously as well as a large humidity range which means unlike most roof sealants. It won't degrade from winter conditions and contact with oils I.e window mechanism lubricants. However 3 years life out of £10 and 20 minutes work isn't bad really http://www.idealsealants.com/high-temperature-silicone-for-gaskets-red-310ml-siroflex_c38p38.php

( I know a car doesn't reach 260 deg c but it just applies a safety factor to increase the life)

Yes all very impressive properties but does it stick to wet things?

It's virtually impossible to dry the affected area out properly

without stripping the door right down as the foam "seal" retains some water.

Most silicone based sealants that I've encountered need the substrate

to be dry to adhere properly, also the zinc plating on the ancillaries

carrier panel isn't the easiest thing to stick silicone to either.

Zinc is a commonly used roofing material which is why the roofing

bituminous sealants are the type of sealants which have the highest

success rate at fixing the problem. I think part of the reason for that

is that they would ordinarily be used with zinc based materials.

My Shell Tixophalte is holding out well, at least 18 dry months now

and virtually no misting up when it's cold....

I can't understand why Bezzys keeps failing,

I used the same stuff on his, guess I was just lucky?

The SDI has started to leak now so that'll be next on the list.

Does seem worse when the car is parked on a slope tail end downward. :wonder:

Heat gun mine dry and used normal window silicone.

Do a job once do it well and it will work.

Heat gun mine dry and used normal window silicone.

Do a job once do it well and it will work.

I heated mine up last time, admittedly with a hair dryer.. not a a heat gun, but it was summer as well..

I honestly think it's prolonged seasonal moisture that causes the failure.. As I was stripping the old stuff off the sides were still stuck stiff, and the rear part of the bottom was still water tight.... but as I came round to the front hlaf of the bottom seam the sealent just pulled away with very little fight..

I'm on about my front doors, by the way.. if I hadn't already mentioned? Did my rears about 3 years ago and they're still water tight so I KNOW my technique was adaqaute.. Guess we'll see how the Wet Grab Gets on.

I heated mine up last time, admittedly with a hair dryer.. not a a heat gun, but it was summer as well..

I honestly think it's prolonged seasonal moisture that causes the failure.. As I was stripping the old stuff off the sides were still stuck stiff, and the rear part of the bottom was still water tight.... but as I came round to the front hlaf of the bottom seam the sealent just pulled away with very little fight..

I'm on about my front doors, by the way.. if I hadn't already mentioned? Did my rears about 3 years ago and they're still water tight so I KNOW my technique was adaqaute.. Guess we'll see how the Wet Grab Gets on.

Not saying you did it incorrectly chap

Noticed on one of my rears water was seeping via the speaker seal :(

Not saying you did it incorrectly chap

Noticed on one of my rears water was seeping via the speaker seal :(

Na, I know ya not bud (sorry, didn't mean it to come across defensive).. Was just highlighting that I think it's failure post a successful seal, rather than a poor execution that causes peoples leaks to return.

Na, I know ya not bud (sorry, didn't mean it to come across defensive).. Was just highlighting that I think it's failure post a successful seal, rather than a poor execution that causes peoples leaks to return.

All good Tbh its a major design fail on skodas behalf.

Sent from under "harlands bonnet" using Tapatalk !!

I can't understand why Bezzys keeps failing,

I used the same stuff on his, guess I was just lucky?

I keep poking holes in it for an excuse to meet new people lol! Only joking, I don't know what it is about my car. When Softscoop looked at mine there was just a small hole in the sealant you'd put on, where it had begun to leak again. Poked about in the drain holes and they were still clear.

At least I know what needs doing with it when I get the condensation now. I really need to buy myself some tools though