left my car into the belfast dealership today to finaly find out whats wrong with my car as all these small faults are starting to do my head in

they put it on there diagnostic machine and this is what they found

the engine management light which came on but car run fine error on dash was ( emmisions workshop ) was due to a MAF SENSOR GIVES SMALLS SINGAL TO ECU ***** To repair replace MAF SENSOR ** PART NUMBER 074906461B Part Price £231.19 inc fitting £351.83 OUCH

The Passenger door lock that pops up when locked from the inside button ** needs new door lock ** this could also be why my interior light works intermitedley when the passenger door opens * PART NUMBER 3B28370152 part price £99.68 inc fitting £231.22 ** double OUCH

Cruise Control works intermitedley - Needs Cruise Control Switch* PART NUMBER BEA500002 Part Price £52.50 inc fitting £174.60 now its getting expensive

headlights Xeon working on and off when they want- well they tell me they where working fine when i left it in and they couldnt get them to work one off and one on and back again but they suspect it to be a Faulty Ballast to repair ** Replace Ballast PART NUMBER 3U0941641 part price £123.55 inc fitting £259.86 ( havent a clue what a ballast is lol ) woulod i not need TWO of these as both headlights do same fault ?

TOTAL FOR PARTS £608.30 INC LABOUR £1017.51

now the diagnostics didnt pick up that my parking sensors where not working and i forgot to ask about these

or that my car radio signal strength is crap and that i think i need a new aerial or new wire from the radio to the aerial needs replaced

all seems very expensive but anyone know where i could get cheaper parts ?

Cheaper MAF sensor

Anyhow the MAF you got is a new one. At auth dealers you can get the same part as refurbished part at a 1/3 of the price. It's same quality, only the connector and the housing is reused.

Doorlock price is ok. Fitting price is also ok.

The price you mention for the Cruisecontrol arm is about 2x normal price. I find the fitting also expensive, at it takes about 45 min's to change it.

Ballastprice seems also to be ok. Fitting price should have been approx the half. Almost 140£, meaning they have used ~ 2 hours on this. No way ... If both headlight had the same error on the same time, it's NOT the ballast. If you just see some blinking mostly from cold start, it is your bulb's that are worn.

Edited 26 October, 201114 yr by i-s

Cheaper MAF sensor

Anyhow the MAF you got is a new one. At auth dealers you can get the same part as refurbished part at a 1/3 of the price. It's same quality, only the connector and the housing is reused.

Doorlock price is ok. Fitting price is also ok.

The price you mention for the Cruisecontrol arm is about 2x normal price. I find the fitting also expensive, at it takes about 45 min's to change it.

Ballastprice seems also to be ok. Fitting price should have been approx the half. Almost 140£, meaning they have used ~ 2 hours on this. No way ... If both headlight had the same error on the same time, it's NOT the ballast. If you just see some blinking mostly from cold start, it is your bulb's that are worn.

Hi i havent bought or had a MAF fitted yet this was just all tested and priced before i get any work done. Also where does the MAF go is it under the bonet or under the dash ?

the time scale they have for each job is not inc 20% vat

MAF ** 1 HOUR £62.00

CRUISE CONTROL 1.5 HOURS £93.00

DOOR LOCK 1.5 HOURS 93.00

BALLIST 1.5 HOURS 93.00

what is happening with my headlights is this i switch them on both MAY come on thats fine but sometimes maybe the drivers side will come on only and if i switch off and on then both might come on or the drivers one could go off and the passangers side could come on instead

The cruise control switch they talk about is this the WHOLE arm at the side of the steering wheel that needs replaced ?

Edited 26 October, 201114 yr by Belfastlad

For the headlights you should first try to change the bulbs. Maybe you get some friend, who has same socket bulbs, to borrow you for checking.

For cruise control you should also check first the brake light switch. Cruise control works through there actually. I had same problem and the solution was brake light switch. You can check it that way, that when you come from the drive, brake to your stopping location, turn of engine and go check, that are the rear brake lights on or not. If it's on, then the brake light switch is toasted (stuck) and should be replaced. Cruise control is working through the switch when you push brake pedal. It disconnects the communication between engine and cruise control. If switch is on all the time, then the cruise control cant work.

Maf is located under the bonnet, near the air filter.

Agree, try new bulbs first.

Yes the Cruise control arm is a complete unit. You can probadly use the same as on a Passat which is about 25 - 30 £ for a original. Remember there is 2 versions. Buy the lastest with tip switch (+/-) at the end of the arm. It is so much better than the old type.

The MAF is located below the plastic shield (2 philips screws) on the right in the engine compartment. You just need a standard screwdriver set to replace that one. I can do it in less than 10 mins .... If you are a beginner in car repairs, you will probadly need 45 mins to do the job. Get a haynes workshop manual if you plan to do other repairs.

If you are good to search the internet, you will find the original workshop manual (for PC) from Skoda as a "copy". I will not guide you there since it is not legal.

For the headlights you should first try to change the bulbs. Maybe you get some friend, who has same socket bulbs, to borrow you for checking.

For cruise control you should also check first the brake light switch. Cruise control works through there actually. I had same problem and the solution was brake light switch. You can check it that way, that when you come from the drive, brake to your stopping location, turn of engine and go check, that are the rear brake lights on or not. If it's on, then the brake light switch is toasted (stuck) and should be replaced. Cruise control is working through the switch when you push brake pedal. It disconnects the communication between engine and cruise control. If switch is on all the time, then the cruise control cant work.

Maf is located under the bonnet, near the air filter.

I have already changed the brake switch so its not that i was also told it might have been the clutch switch ?

but the guys in the workshop say its the arm so ill take there word

as for the lights i dont know anyone who would lend me there £100 bulbs to test in mine lol

Bulbs

I just really don't know, why you want to buy £100 bulbs :wonder: . Next guy who let's the dealership rob him? Even I, who don't know much about cars, can find cheaper or used parts for them. That includes also cruise control stalk.

Some more comments:

Do NOT buy the BEA500002. It is a complete cruise control.

You need this (Partnumber 3U095351301C ; DealerPrice ~ 40 £):

The cruise control stalk can be found cheaper on the internet.

The correct MAF for your car is the refurbished with partnumber 074906461BX, Dealerprice ~ 110 £

MAF is easy to change, don't pay £100 for fitting, it's infront of the air filter box with big rubber hose going into it.

Stalk, if you can change it without having to remove the steering wheel this is plug and play

But before you change anything check for wet carpets, if you have water ingress this fecks with all the electrics.

MAF is easy to change, don't pay £100 for fitting, it's infront of the air filter box with big rubber hose going into it.

Stalk, if you can change it without having to remove the steering wheel this is plug and play

But before you change anything check for wet carpets, if you have water ingress this fecks with all the electrics.

What !! Sure you will have to remove the steering wheel.

Water ingress: Certainly NO - has nothing to do with this. What a silly advise.

What !! Sure you will have to remove the steering wheel.

Water ingress: Certainly NO - has nothing to do with this. What a silly advise.

Oh ok then, we'll let him spend out on things that aren't needed without checking the obvious then?

This is a MK1 model not a 2 btw, MK1 has many traits, best to start at the begining before allowing the spanners to go mad, my mate recently due to someone dismissive like yourself had £1000 worth of un-needed fuel pumps fitted to his Octy, I said at the time it wasn't them, then the guy wanted to fit 4 new injectors to the car, fault was eventually found to be a fuse box gone bad, so please be aware what the car logs up isn't always the real fault, you get a chain reaction and unless you know better you can spend thousands on repairs that should've cost hundreds.

Edited 28 October, 201114 yr by Supurbia

Oh ok then, we'll let him spend out on things that aren't needed without checking the obvious then?

This is a MK1 model not a 2 btw, MK1 has many traits, best to start at the begining before allowing the spanners to go mad, my mate recently due to someone dismissive like yourself had £1000 worth of un-needed fuel pumps fitted to his Octy, I said at the time it wasn't them, then the guy wanted to fit 4 new injectors to the car, fault was eventually found to be a fuse box gone bad, so please be aware what the car logs up isn't always the real fault, you get a chain reaction and unless you know better you can spend thousands on repairs that should've cost hundreds.

As I mentioned on your other thread I would recommend that you get your car checked by Walsh Motors (off the Andersonstown Road). They are VAG specialists and have the latest VAG equipment, are very reasonably priced and def. know what they are doing. I am sure they will get you sorted much quicker and much cheaper then the dealer you visited.

I get all my Servicing and work on my Superb done by them, and am very satisfied and impressed with their work and customer service.

Oh ok then, we'll let him spend out on things that aren't needed without checking the obvious then?

This is a MK1 model not a 2 btw, MK1 has many traits, best to start at the begining before allowing the spanners to go mad, my mate recently due to someone dismissive like yourself had £1000 worth of un-needed fuel pumps fitted to his Octy, I said at the time it wasn't them, then the guy wanted to fit 4 new injectors to the car, fault was eventually found to be a fuse box gone bad, so please be aware what the car logs up isn't always the real fault, you get a chain reaction and unless you know better you can spend thousands on repairs that should've cost hundreds.

I have worked on the VAG cars for years. Suggesting looking for water ingress in this situation is the same as suggesting looking for worn wipers. Not obvious, just silly.

You do not have any real knowledge do you ? I sense you are one of those, that just have gained sporadic knowledge by reading other peoples post's in forum's like this.

I have worked on the VAG cars for years. Suggesting looking for water ingress in this situation is the same as suggesting looking for worn wipers. Not obvious, just silly.

You do not have any real knowledge do you ? I sense you are one of those, that just have gained sporadic knowledge by reading other peoples post's in forum's like this.

Yeah whatever.

Look in the how 2 section and see whose contributed among the leading contributors, and I've not owned a Sup for nearly 2 years now.

If you work on VAG cars you'd know the water ingress causes all sorts of problems, water + electrics in any field = bad news.

I suggest you read through the pages here and see how many times faults have been due to the CU corroding due to water ingress.

And while we're on sensing things, I sense you are one of those that unless you have a diagnostic plug you can't fix anything, and if the diagnostic port fails to report then you sling it back out with no fault found just like the Skodamonkies did with my obviously 100% dead egr valve and couldn't diagnose a vibration that I now suspect was a bad top mount bearing, among other things they failed to fix, I've been under the hood for 30 years now and on cars dating back to the 50's, I believe in thorough, something you experts seem to neglect.

BTW, I suggested a feel of the carpet as an early no cost check he could do himself, in his other thread that I hadn't seen he says no ingress but a new CU was fitted a few years ago, I'm just trying to help him out, I've already saved him £100 fitting of a ten minute job MAF, £100 to undo 2 clamps and pull, robbing barstewards, with the CC stalk, not all cars need to remove the wheel to get at it, nice touch by VAG that one ensuring that the average joe doesn't have a puller to do the job, another 10 minute job turned into an hour by good old VAG, without reading and having only limited info his MAF is probably ok anyway, lots of things can make a maf look bad.

Now Mr Knowledge, do tell me what the EML on a 1.9 PD with the car running fine means?

Edited 28 October, 201114 yr by Supurbia

If you need bits for your superb there is a breaker in Northern Ireland who specialises in skoda's - Quigg's breakers they have a site on the net I wouldn't be going out and buying a lot of new bits for a MK1 indeed if you went to the yard they may be able to advise you on rectifying some of your problems

Yeah whatever.

Look in the how 2 section and see whose contributed among the leading contributors, and I've not owned a Sup for nearly 2 years now.

If you work on VAG cars you'd know the water ingress causes all sorts of problems, water + electrics in any field = bad news.

I suggest you read through the pages here and see how many times faults have been due to the CU corroding due to water ingress.

And while we're on sensing things, I sense you are one of those that unless you have a diagnostic plug you can't fix anything, and if the diagnostic port fails to report then you sling it back out with no fault found just like the Skodamonkies did with my obviously 100% dead egr valve and couldn't diagnose a vibration that I now suspect was a bad top mount bearing, among other things they failed to fix, I've been under the hood for 30 years now and on cars dating back to the 50's, I believe in thorough, something you experts seem to neglect.

BTW, I suggested a feel of the carpet as an early no cost check he could do himself, in his other thread that I hadn't seen he says no ingress but a new CU was fitted a few years ago, I'm just trying to help him out, I've already saved him £100 fitting of a ten minute job MAF, £100 to undo 2 clamps and pull, robbing barstewards, with the CC stalk, not all cars need to remove the wheel to get at it, nice touch by VAG that one ensuring that the average joe doesn't have a puller to do the job, another 10 minute job turned into an hour by good old VAG, without reading and having only limited info his MAF is probably ok anyway, lots of things can make a maf look bad.

Now Mr Knowledge, do tell me what the EML on a 1.9 PD with the car running fine means?

You just won't understand that this is not a water ingress problem ..

Just more silly rubbish. I will not use any more time on you.

You just won't understand that this is not a water ingress problem ..

Just more silly rubbish. I will not use any more time on you.

I didn't say it was mate, all I said is start there and work away from it.

If you look he has issues with lights,CC and door locks, what controls all of those Sherlock?

You didn't answer the question so you must be a feckin fine mechanic who knows the PD engine like the back of his hand, so never mind you not wasting anymore time on me, I think that's my line isn't it?

Edited 28 October, 201114 yr by Supurbia

I didn't say it was mate, all I said is start there and work away from it.

If you look he has issues with lights,CC and door locks, what controls all of those Sherlock?

You didn't answer the question so you must be a feckin fine mechanic who knows the PD engine like the back of his hand, so never mind you not wasting anymore time on me, I think that's my line isn't it?

Agree.

Just like when I had brake problems - it wasn't the servo, it was the battery/servo compartment flooded with rainwater.

This car's biggest enemy is rain. Lots of good advice here.

Edited 2 November, 201114 yr by oh_superb

thanks for all the info guys and please dont be argueing on my behalf

How do i tell if my car is a MK1 or MK2 of this suberb ? is the mark 2 not the new shape skoda with the double type hatch back / boot if it is then mine is MK1

just to say again my carpets are fully dry and i cant feel and water or damp on any of the carpets i did have the convenience unit replaced 2 years ago

by the skoda dealer.

I am going to order 2 new bulbs to try and see if this fixes the headlight issue

i have found these bulbs on ebay but there seems to be ones called 6000k 5000k 8000k what is the difference ?

D2S xenon bulbs

i was also going to order 2 new BALLAST FROM EBAY but there seems so many so i was thinking of one of these ones

can anyone tell me if these are the correct type for my 2007 skoda suberb elegance

ballast

As for the MAF i have found also this one for sale on ebay for only £30 its the same part number as mine but doesnt say skoda on it would this one fit ?

MAF sensor

I still cant find any cruise control arms on ebay for sale the only ones i have found look different

my arm is the left arm with the swith on and off for the crusie control and pictures of the lights on it thats all it doesnt have a switch at the end of the arm

also cant find any passenger door locks i might try one of the local breaker yards for this as i hope only to keep the car another few months

Edited 3 November, 201114 yr by Belfastlad

thanks for all the info guys and please dont be argueing on my behalf

How do i tell if my car is a MK1 or MK2 of this suberb ? is the mark 2 not the new shape skoda with the double type hatch back / boot if it is then mine is MK1

just to say again my carpets are fully dry and i cant feel and water or damp on any of the carpets i did have the convenience unit replaced 2 years ago

by the skoda dealer.

I am going to order 2 new bulbs to try and see if this fixes the headlight issue

i have found these bulbs on ebay but there seems to be ones called 6000k 5000k 8000k what is the difference ?

D2S xenon bulbs

i was also going to order 2 new BALLAST FROM EBAY but there seems so many so i was thinking of one of these ones

can anyone tell me if these are the correct type for my 2007 skoda suberb elegance ballast

I would just like to point out from experience that my capets felt fully dry on top. However what was lurking under was a resivor. You need to feel under the carpets. What ever the carpets are made of on my model stopped the water coming through. Checking this cost nothing, before you splash out on bulbs.

The numbers relate to the whiteness / yellowness of the the colour given out by the bulbs.

Autobulbs.co.uk do some as well but those ebay ones are cheap thankgod.

One does ponder how long these bulbs last and when I can expect them to go on my own 53 plate car?????

thanks for all the info guys and please dont be argueing on my behalf

How do i tell if my car is a MK1 or MK2 of this suberb ? is the mark 2 not the new shape skoda with the double type hatch back / boot if it is then mine is MK1

just to say again my carpets are fully dry and i cant feel and water or damp on any of the carpets i did have the convenience unit replaced 2 years ago

by the skoda dealer.

I am going to order 2 new bulbs to try and see if this fixes the headlight issue

i have found these bulbs on ebay but there seems to be ones called 6000k 5000k 8000k what is the difference ?

D2S xenon bulbs

i was also going to order 2 new BALLAST FROM EBAY but there seems so many so i was thinking of one of these ones

can anyone tell me if these are the correct type for my 2007 skoda suberb elegance

ballast

As for the MAF i have found also this one for sale on ebay for only £30 its the same part number as mine but doesnt say skoda on it would this one fit ?

MAF sensor

I still cant find any cruise control arms on ebay for sale the only ones i have found look different

my arm is the left arm with the swith on and off for the crusie control and pictures of the lights on it thats all it doesnt have a switch at the end of the arm

also cant find any passenger door locks i might try one of the local breaker yards for this as i hope only to keep the car another few months

- Yours is a Mk I.

- The D2S bulbs are right, however do buy bulbs with a well known good brand. There is a lot of bad quality out there. Same goes for the other items. The number is the color temperature. 4300K is the original bulb temperature. Higher means more blue and lower means more yellow.

- Forget these ballasts. They are for aftermarket and does not fit without modifications. Go for the original ones. So wait and see if it can be solved by a new pair of bulbs first.

- If MAF has correct part number, its does not matter whether it is branded VW, AUDI, SEAT or SKODA

- For cuise control, go and buy the original one. Its the best plastic quality and it is something you have to deal with at every turn.

Edited 3 November, 201114 yr by i-s

Back to the HID bulbs for my car do the headlights have to come out to replace these HID bulbs ?

all help would be greatfull

Brian

Back to the HID bulbs for my car do the headlights have to come out to replace these HID bulbs ?

all help would be greatfull

Brian

They can be done without removing the light but it is extremely fiddly and removing the bumper is the best way especially as you are changing both bulbs at least you wont scrape the hands off yourself and you can be sure they are properly located

The ballast could be at fault of they work in the same way as the Mk1 Octavias do. One is the master and one is a slave. From memory I think the near side is the master. Of that fails, you lose both headlights. If the offside fails then you just lose that one. I would say its unlikely to be the bulbs of they are both behaving in exactly the same way.