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  • I thought the point was that these bulbs do include resistors as part of the pack, so if fitted as supplied you will get no errors (because the resistors will sort it out)

  • Written/translated by a total noodle brain. A classic example of poor understanding of what an owner expects from an instruction book. I swapped both of my H7 fogs for Narva blue tints to match th

  • Thanks CFB, this method worked fine, thanks to your help. One down and one to go. Del

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Can someone tell me the amperage fuses for H4? :)

They

Can someone tell me the amperage fuses for H4? :)

Why do you need to know?

They are standard wattage bulbs, just the same as fitted by Skoda.

Hi Beej,

When you get your Yeti you can turn the DRL's off yourself, using the vehicles dashboard computer.

Enjoy it when you get it.

I want to change it with Osram night breakers and i thinking the if the amperage of the fuses is ok, because the Osram's it's more powerful.

The Osram Nightbreaker Plus bulbs are NOT more powerful, they are still 55/65watt. The "Plus" part comes from a better gas mix and improved filament design giving a higher light output for the same wattage.

Therefore there is no need to vary the fuses.

Thank you. I my mind was ... the absorbtion of wattage will be higher and the fuses will become "little" senzitive...

Edited by laur

As I said, the wattage is exactly the same as the bulbs Skoda fit as standard, so there is no need to worry.

Quick bit of electrickery for you:

P = IV (power in watts = current in amps × voltage in volts)

Rearranging this, you get:

I = P/V

So, since P is the same for the Osrams as for the regular bulbs (either 55W or 65W depending on the filament) and V is the same for both (12v, give or take), then I (the current) will be the same. All the Osrams (and other similar bulbs) are doing is making more efficient use of the power consumed.

If you decide to fit an higher wattage bulbs, then you may be in trouble.

I do not understand what you say because: for 40/45 W oem bulbs i have 3.3/3.7 A and for osram night breaker plus i have 4.5/5 A.

(I=P/U) So?

Edited by laur

Laur.

The Osram Nightbreaker H4 bulbs I have are 55/65w, it also says 4.5/5 on the box, so they are EXACTLY the same. I don't know what those other figures are but it doesn't matter.

Please accept that these OSRAM bulbs are exactly the same wattage as those fitted by Skoda as standard. Stop worrying about it and just fit them, like many of us have done here, with NO problems.

Ok. Thank you very much.

Hi Beej, When you get your Yeti you can turn the DRL's off yourself, using the vehicles dashboard computer. Enjoy it when you get it.

I didn't know that. I had assumed since DRLs were the law in other countries, it would be harder to switch off.

Thanks though, if they're not switched off already at least I'll know where to look.

The only cars with DRLs I ever remembered seeing were old pre-90's Volvos (I don't think they still have them switched on here anymore, but I could be wrong). Big ugly boxy things like the 245GL our family had back in the 80's, which went from being a great family car I liked as a kid, to being an embarrassment when I had to resort to using it to escort whatever girlfriend I had at the time out to the movies/nightclubs etc once I had my licence, to being an advantage on some of said dates with it's loads of space with the seats down in the back ... Yeah, thinking about it ... the positives outweighed the negatives there hands down.

Err ... sorry. Slight digression.

Wish my Yeti would hurry up and arrive.

I'm collecting my new Yeti (110 diesel) next week and the first task will be to fit a pair of Philips X-treme vision H4's. The yeti handbook makes the task look easy!! I know that many of you have upgraded the headlights and was wondering if there are any awkward little problems ahead of me. I'm pretty competent as a rule but have biggish fingers and can be clumsy and I've learned, from previous posts, that some of the bulbs are hard to get at.

All advice and tips will be very gratefully received.

Richard T

Small hands are a bonus!!

Other than that I found having a look with a mirror once the initial covers are off, to see what-is-what helped.

I found that a small mirror was a big help too.

I pinched my daughters compact :giggle:

It helps you to see how the bulb clip sits and if the bulb is located correctly.

I haven't done any bulbs on the Yeti yet but I just had to do one on the B Class. I would cheerfully throttle whoever designed those light units. Anyway, in a fit of frustration I poked my iPhone into the unknown and snapped a picture; this worked a treat and it was all finished moments later.

On the topic of light unit design, whoever designed the headlight unit on the Volvo V50 deserves some kind of official honour; best design ever.

On the topic of light unit design, whoever designed the headlight unit on the Volvo V50 deserves some kind of official honour; best design ever.

Second to the Mk2 Octavia then. very easy to change any bulb....

To replace the H7 fog light lamps do you need to actually remove the circular metal clip that holds the lamp in place or just release the three individual spring tabs holding the lamp. Any tips or pictures welcome as I do not want to force or damage the holder.

Del

according to the manual you remove the connector then "press the light socket downwards and insert a new one"

not much help there then?!

if i get a chance i will have a proper look later this pm...

unless someone beats me to it?

*edit* just pulled mine out.

Easier to remove the connector when the bulb is out.

Use a small mirror so you can see what you are doing better.

To get bulb out do as manual says and push down on the connector. Bulb will pop out.

Take connector off and fit to new bulb. DO NOT TOUCH BULB GLASS WITH FINGERS

To refit you have to align the square tab and flat on the bulb with the locating slot in the holder then push home.

I found it easier to see if the bulb was going in straight by looking at the front of the foglight.

It is a fiddle and small hands help.

Good luck and I hope this has helped?

according to the manual you remove the connector then "press the light socket downwards and insert a new one"

Written/translated by a total noodle brain. :wall: A classic example of poor understanding of what an owner expects from an instruction book.

I swapped both of my H7 fogs for Narva blue tints to match the LED DRLs and Xenons. The trick is to simply gently but firmly pull the bulb out of the lamp unit after removing the plug. Do not pull on any of the cables as you could loosen their connections.

Try to memorise the orientation of the bulb as it comes out so that you can push the new one back in the same position. BE VERY CAREFUL not to touch the glass of the new bulb as doing so will drastically reduce its life expectancy.

If you get the rotational angle of the new bulb the same as the old bulb, it should simply push back into its holder. If you get the angle wrong, it can take some swearing to sort out.

To replace the H7 fog light lamps do you need to actually remove the circular metal clip that holds the lamp in place or just release the three individual spring tabs holding the lamp. Any tips or pictures welcome as I do not want to force or damage the holder.

Del

Does this help?

Fog light H7.pdf

Does this help?

Thanks Arkaig, thisd will be helpful. Seems to indicate what Trevorminor says as regards simply applying a bit of downward pressure on the bulb to remove it.

Del.

Written/translated by a total noodle brain. :wall: A classic example of poor understanding of what an owner expects from an instruction book.

I swapped both of my H7 fogs for Narva blue tints to match the LED DRLs and Xenons. The trick is to simply gently but firmly pull the bulb out of the lamp unit after removing the plug. Do not pull on any of the cables as you could loosen their connections.

Try to memorise the orientation of the bulb as it comes out so that you can push the new one back in the same position. BE VERY CAREFUL not to touch the glass of the new bulb as doing so will drastically reduce its life expectancy.

If you get the rotational angle of the new bulb the same as the old bulb, it should simply push back into its holder. If you get the angle wrong, it can take some swearing to sort out.

Thanks for this, just tried your suggestion on the drivers side and out came the lamp without too much force. New bulb simply pushed back in once the alignment was correct. Nice white light on one side now.

Hope the passenger side is not too much bother as access is more limited. Raining now and getting dark so that will be a job for tomorrow I think.

I found that a small mirror and a torch definately helps to see what is going on as regards orientation and location.

Thanks for your help.

Del

according to the manual you remove the connector then "press the light socket downwards and insert a new one"

not much help there then?!

if i get a chance i will have a proper look later this pm...

unless someone beats me to it?

*edit* just pulled mine out.

Easier to remove the connector when the bulb is out.

Use a small mirror so you can see what you are doing better.

To get bulb out do as manual says and push down on the connector. Bulb will pop out.

Take connector off and fit to new bulb. DO NOT TOUCH BULB GLASS WITH FINGERS

To refit you have to align the square tab and flat on the bulb with the locating slot in the holder then push home.

I found it easier to see if the bulb was going in straight by looking at the front of the foglight.

It is a fiddle and small hands help.

Good luck and I hope this has helped?

Thanks CFB, this method worked fine, thanks to your help. One down and one to go.

Del

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