Hey all,

Last year I posted a bunch of issues and you helpful lot guided me through the process of fixing my coolant bottle, thermostat, temperature sensor, coolant replacement and oil change. It was a huge help, and my car survived another year!

However, winter has started for this year, and it seems to be the time of year when cars need to go through some sort of preparation. Perhaps it's only my Skoda, I'm not sure, but I would really appreciate some help with the following codes and issues I've noticed, so that my great car can survive another winter, and therefore, another year!

First things first, I have 5 codes on my VAG305:

* 17978 Engine control module disabled

* 16687 Cylinder 3:misfire detected

* 16955 Brake switch (A) Circuit:malfunction

* 00526 Brake light switch-F

* 01314 Engine control unit

And the following obvious symptoms:

* Power steering light is on most of the time, with power steering sometimes (not always) being absent. Lights dim when it does work.

* Engine light sometimes pops on when the engine seems to deliver less power, instead opting to shake the car from third gear onwards.

* One of the two brake lights doesn't work. I don't know if it's the brake light switch or just a bulb.

* Lots of moisture on the inside of the windows. I don't know how so much gets into the car! But I really want to fix it! (Otherwise, I spend many towels and minutes drying the inside window before setting off each morning and night!).

* ABS kicks in far too soon. It's been like this for 1.5 years so I'm not very concerned about it.

* EPC light came on once. But only once.

Has anyone got any ideas on what the specific issues may be? I intend to check my battery, and I will also try swapping the brake lights to confirm it is the light itself failing. What about repair procedures? I like to do my own work unless it is very difficult. As some of you may be aware, I have been able to do things like replace my thermostat and temperature sensor, but I would feel very uncomfortable with things like exhaust replacement.

Thanks very much for your help guys!

I'll try to keep this thread updated with my resolutions, like last time.

Nick

When I got mine it had cylinder 1 misfire detected when I read the codes. Changed the spark plugs, cleared the codes, and it never came back.

Brake light bulb failure can cause codes relating to brake light switch failure and the EPC light to come on. Ensure bulbs used are standard and not LED etc. If the other lights come on it is very likely just the bulb needs sorting out. Buy yourself a set of bulbs either way. While it's not a legal requirement to carry spare bulbs in this country (it is in many others) you can always please Officer Dibble when he pulls you over as you thank him for highlighting the problem and pull out a collection of bulbs.

Moisture inside, guessing you have seen the posts about leaking door carriers (particularly rear doors), and screen wash pipe detachment? Both relatively easy DIY jobs.

If ABS kicks in too soon it is possible one of your brake calipers is seized or the pads have been fitted incorrectly. This is something that should be picked up at MOT.

I suspect issues with power steering may well be the battery.

17978 Engine control module disabled

I have seen this number as "Engine Control Module Blocked by Immobilizer". If that's the case I have had this appear before, and I think it normally comes up when you have a dud battery. Clearing that code should sort it out.

01314 Engine control unit (guessing "No Communications")

This is probably another that will go away and not come back once cleared.

Thanks anewman, I'll digest your advice and think on it!

I did some tests just now and it turns out that both brake lights are no longer working, although the top brake light works. It works in an odd fashion, as the top brake light is always lit on the sides (ie: a ***----*** sort of pattern) and fully lights up when the brake pedal is pressed. Are both bulbs now suspect, needing replacement, or should I suspect something else? What bulbs would I need? Is there a kit I could buy for muliple bulb types, as my number plate light also does not work (and is there a specific type of light for the number plate area?).

Thanks again,

Nick

That's what normally happens when both bulbs are gone (or there is a fault with the wiring which makes it appear both bulbs have gone). For a quick test you could swap the reverse bulbs with the stop light bulbs, IIRC they're the same type of bulb.

Stop light are P21W bulbs.

Number plate bulbs are C5W festoon bulbs. Would personally replace both regardless, chances are you'll find the ones in there have a light black coating on the glass reducing their brightness, and you can clean the plastic lenses up at the same time if desired, as they normally get a bit mucky inside. You need a torx screwdriver to remove the screws, and if the screws are a bit rusty it may be a good idea to renew these to help prevent difficulty unscrewing in a few years time (available cheaply at a dealers).

I'm not sure a bulb kit is a better buy as chances are it will be missing some bulbs you need.

I'd normally buy from Halfords as got hold of a trade card which makes them quite a bit cheaper. Otherwise options are probably ebay, local motor factor, or Wilkinsons.

These are among the cheapest on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OSRAM-C5W-239-ULTRA-LIFE-BULBS-NUMBER-PLATE-LIGHT-BULB-/170622940203?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b9eb742b

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-RING-BA15S-382-P21W-12V-21W-BULBS-BRAND-NEW-/370529626509?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564549698d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Philips-Premium-P21W-12v-21w-bulbs-twin-Pack-/230712055753?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b78297c9

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OSRAM-P21W-382-ULTRA-LIFE-BULBS-LAST-3-TIMES-LONGER-THAN-STANDARD-/170734713555?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c094fad3

Also could be brake pedal plunger switch is a known faulty item (£20 ish) and a 2spanner out of5 to fit

PAS sensor is on the way out....£140ish (including refundable surcharge on return of old one) from dealers......again 5mins to swap the sensor over....but 1hr to reroute the cables....car needs to jacked up at the front and supported on axle stands. againn about 2 out of 5 for difficulty.

Also fit the biggest battery you can into the battery box...60ah min...as the PAS draws alot of current.

A 096 battery will fit

Echo..........Echo.........

Check that the 096 battery will fit, my 56 plate 1.4TDI has a 096 battery according to most web sites, but it is too large and will not physically fit, the actual battery is a 027 (identified on Euro car Parts website).

Think the battery box will be the same surely?

I know mine and the Fabia vRS has an 096 battery so would have thought the box is identicle. All guess work of course!

Phil

Is there a simple way to test the battery to determine if it needs to be changed? I have a voltmeter thingy, but the Haynes manual talks about electrolyte testing. My battery hasn't been changed since I obtained the car in 2007. I also use the car very infrequently at the moment, since I moved closer to my workplace!

Nick

Lol sorry for double post. On mobile and didn't think it worked. I believe best way to test a battery is some sort of drain test. If with voltmeter across terminals is 12.3 or less, if not driven in last 24 hours a fair bet battery is struggling. Irregular use wears a battery faster, and cold conditions make batteries on their way out struggle. 096 fits my 02 1.4 mpi fine. Best check size of box first though as mentioned above. Careful not to join battery terminals with tape measure though.

Hey all,

I obtained two festoon bulbs and plugged them in. They worked for about a minute, until I screwed one of the holders back into its compartment just above the number plate. They then switched off. I checked the brake bulbs, but the filament is still connected. I'm a bit worried now because it seems most of my bulbs aren't working, but the bulbs are fine!

Just to be clear: The bottommost lights are the only ones that work when I turn them fully on via the control, with the engine and ignition off.

Does anyone know what else could be the problem?

Nick

It is possible for a filament to appear connected but the bulb not to work.

Try moving the bulbs and see if that brings them on.

It's normal for dipped beam headlights to not come on unless the engine is running.

The car will no longer start. It just causes all active lights to dim and clicks a lot until I release the key. Therefore, I really do think it is the battery. I broke my voltmeter so I can't check for sure!

I assume that if I managed to get the car to start, it would recharge the battery via the alternator. Suppose it were not possible to start the car after charging it this way, could I then suspect that the alternator has gone wrong instead? Is there any reason to suspect the alternator currently, rather than the battery? I had the alternator replaced about 1.5 years ago, and I didn't do it myself.

Supposing I get a battery instead, what's the cheapest way of getting one? IE: Halfords, eBay, online motor shop etc?

Thanks once again!

Nick

Edit - I found some batteries in this web page. Am I on the right track? http://www.tayna.co.uk/batterygroups/30/096-Car-Batteries-page1.html

Edit 2 - Anewman, my front lights are all fine

Edited 7 December, 201114 yr by Nicholas Hill

Either get one online or just go to a local motor factors. You can get pretty good deals but avoid halfrauds... they're expensive!

If you can get it started with a jump lead then take it somewhere for a free battery check. They will also be able to tell you if the alternator is charging or not.

Phil

I took a look at my plastic battery compartment, which measures at least 29cm by 17cm, and the current battery says the following. Can someone let me know is a 096 will really fit? Or which specific battery I should buy?

1JO 915 105 AB

12V 44Ah 220A DIN

360A EN/SAE

Here is some useful info with battery sizes:

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=95565.0

A 096 battery is 72AH so I think it is the same size as the vag 72AH.

Phil

Don't go for the battery quoted by many to fit your car as it will be too small........get one from a diesel engined Fabia..

Agreed.

When it comes to batteries always get the biggest you can afford/shoe-horn into the engine bay!

I have a Solite 027 battery coming from the following URL. I don't want to risk getting a battery that will be too big or not fit in some way.

http://www.thebatteryguys.co.uk/vehicles/car-skoda-fabia-petrol-14-20

You need to think of battery height too.

Here's the 096 fitted to my 1.4mpi

Here's the battery sizes from when I compiled them a while back, all in mm

063 (L:207 W:175 H:175)

012 (L:207 W:175 H:190)

027 (L:242 W:175 H:190)

100 (L:278 W:175 H:175)

096 (L:278 W:175 H:190)

Based on your measurements, assuming you have the height, the 096 will fit. If you have a 063 battery fitted at present you can check for the extra 15mm clearance by putting a dvd case on top of the battery and refitting the lid.

Thanks anewman. Your engine compartment looks exactly like my own.

Here's an update: Replaced both festoon bulbs for the number plate, replaced one brake light that I confirmed had broke. I have a battery on the way which should arrive tommorow. Once I have replaced the battery (easy job, right?) I will drive around a bit and see what else needs to be fixed on the car.

It's easy enough to replace the battery. Remove negative terminal first, fit negative terminal last. Battery terminals need 10mm socket. Battery tray clamp 13mm. I find I need to sort of push back the plastic of the battery tray to get to the clamp and bolt. Be careful not to lose the clamp and bolt, that's the most tricky bit. I found the bigger battery needed a little more careful manoeuvring to fit under the clips at the back of the battery box.

Aargh! The socket extension piece that I own is about 2mm too short! I'll have to obtain a new one!

Aargh! The socket extension piece that I own is about 2mm too short! I'll have to obtain a new one!

Always the way......which is why after (repeated) trips to the local tool mechants I have enough to start up my own shop!!.......