I know I asked this ages ago, but i don't think that I really got the sort of information I am looking for. I would like to get some fairly accurate 0-60 times off someone who has had their VRS jabbed, both before and after the remap, no other mods, and using 95ron juice. I know that what really makes cars go is the torque, but in my limited mechanical knowledge, what would make more sense to me is some time trials i.e. a jabba remap for the forementioned setup will take you from pre map 0-60 of 7.7s to 7.2s or whatever. I am considering the remap, but would like to know that it wouldn't just through my head into the seat, but would let me watch lots of other motors in the rear view mirror get a lot smaller from the lights, if you know what I mean.

So anyone with times would be good.

Cheers,

Damien

Damien,

Although not a vRS the 4x4 on a remap will yield 6.4 to 7.2 seconds depending on technique and fuel type...I'd expect a vRS to be in that range considering longer first and we bounce of the rev limiter for a sustained 60mph in 2nd.

*Times taken using dash located AP22 performance meter.

Dab

I echo what Colin says as when I timed my Jabba'd 4x4 (to 64mph on the speedo) I could repeat 6.7's

To be honest, the most accurate 220bhp+ roadtest figures are those in Autocar's roadtest of the 'standard' :Cat: vRS. This matches almost entirely (ie 0-60 in 6.7 etc)

Thanks chaps, this gives me some idea of what to expect if I outlay the cash. Will have to make the dreaded insurance quiery first :(

Damo

Originally posted by Fabpreza in this post

Dab

To be honest, the most accurate 220bhp+ roadtest figures are those in Autocar's roadtest of the 'standard' :Cat: vRS. This matches almost entirely (ie 0-60 in 6.7 etc)

I just read (from the swedish skoda forum), that when they got these clockings at 0-60 in 6,75 s (Bilsport magazine) they measured the testcar's bhp, it showed 200bhp!?

That's one explenation, the other one is that the measurement equipment wasn't quite right that day!?

Well, I don't know what to think. My logic tells me that indeed that testcar Skoda vRS was 'tuned' to performe better, for comercial purposes.

/FD

Autocar's road test figures are the most thorough (in each gear) of any UK magazine.

The test car was definitely running 210bhp+, with my guess at 220.

Unusual for any magazine except Max Power etc to produce figures for a modified car though

Originally posted by dab in this post

Thanks chaps, this gives me some idea of what to expect if I outlay the cash. Will have to make the dreaded insurance quiery first :(

Damo

Last time I spoke to Direct Line, they quoted me an extra

I'm still left in amazement every time I read about raised insurance premiums because of a power increase.

Isn't insurance based on value?

And if the increase in power leads to increased risks - which will probably be the argument - how much of a decrease can you get with better brakes? Or four-wheel drive? Or some other 'active safety' device? Or a certified driving course?

Just wondering...

Originally posted by Dutch4x4 in this post

Isn't insurance based on value?

Just wondering...

The insurance companies will claim its part of the equation...

However...

The Octavia cost me

Originally posted by Dutch4x4 in this post

I'm still left in amazement every time I read about raised insurance premiums because of a power increase.

Isn't insurance based on value?

And if the increase in power leads to increased risks - which will probably be the argument - how much of a decrease can you get with better brakes? Or four-wheel drive? Or some other 'active safety' device? Or a certified driving course?

Just wondering...

Passing the advanced school of motoring (is that their right name?) test can help I think, as can having a decent alarm.

Doubt they'd give you even a penny discount if you had better brakes, etc. Probably charge you more, as the car would then be "modified"

Originally posted by Stimps in this post

Passing the advanced school of motoring (is that their right name?) test can help I think, as can having a decent alarm.

If you pass your IAM (Institute of Advanced Motoring), you can

then phone up their insurance service who will do you a

discounted quote based on your superior skill.

However, I get the horrible feeling that I'd end up doing the test

and everything, come to insurance and the starting point from

which they discount would be a lot higher...maybe I'm just

cynical though!

Rob.

Originally posted by Stimps in this post

Doubt they'd give you even a penny discount if you had better brakes, etc. Probably charge you more, as the car would then be "modified"

Considering the above estimation - which is undoubtedly true, given insurance companies' ways of arguing everything their way - there is absolutely no need for cynicism, Rob.

Dutch,

having an alarm made no difference to my insurance premium; a Tracker would have reduced it by about