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1.4 MPI engine idle problem =( MAP sensor ?

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Hi,

My fabia, 2002 8v, AME, is having some problems lately :(

I tried to find a solution for my problem but didnt found one, yet.

Sometimes, the car is suffering from a non-linear accelerating, feels like the engine is "choking", almost unnoticeable. when it does, the idle is also not stable and moving betwin 600-800 RPM and the whole car is shaking. Another thing I noticed is when this problam appers, the fule consumtion on idle is about 1.2 L\hour. (about 0.8 when not suffering from this problem)

I cant say when this problam appers and when everything is normal. Sometimes I can drive 150 KM w\o any problems, sometimes its start as soon as I start the engine. Sometimes it appers 10 mins after starting and sometimes not, with no any connection to the engine temperature. New thermostat + sensor BTW.

The TB was cleand a month ago and recalibrated, air leaks cheked from all over the engine and didnt found any, new thermostat + sensor installed 2 weeks ago (the engine was running cold all the time, now all good 90Deg ), plugs replaced, coil replaced, ECU falt code cleard.

I have made an experment today. This morning, I started up the car and this problem occured instanly. after a minute I shuted down the engine and disconnected the wire of the MAP sensor (I think it was the MAP sensor. just below the manifold, at the far side from the front of the car, 4 wires connector, correct me if I'm wrong). Then, I started the engine again too see if the engine is still shaking. The engine behaved just the same as it was connected to the sensor. Is this means this sensor is dead? replacing this sensor will fix the problem? why this problem only occurres sometimes and sometimes not?

Anyone know what may be the cause for this problem? I'm quit desperate :(

Thank you VERY much !!!

P.S.

Sorry for my bad english

Edited by oori002

  • Author

Does anyone have any ideas?

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

Updates... (For those who interested, if any)

Sooo... After about 5 diffrent garages (including 2 authorized Skoda dealers) and ALOT of time and money, I have found the ECU was suffering from a small short. It was sent to the main VW lab and they made some tests and fixed the bad sector.

The part in the ECU responsible for the fuel vapors sensor that comes from the fuel tank and going to the intake manifold (not sure what is the name of that one, small round sensor located close the the coolent reservoir), was faking. That part is also connected to the Lambda sensor in some way.

Any way, After the ECU reconnected, the engine was going little better (no falt codes) but still shaking and not as good as it can, I'm sure of it =( =( =( =( =(

Tomorrow the mechanic will bring a new MAP and Lambda sensors to see if it goes any better. (Wish me luck)

Did anyone had this strange and (extremely) annoying problem before? Does anyone think replacing the sensors can solve it?

Thanks !

Edited by oori002

Some shaking at idle is normal for the 1.4mpi engine. Idle going up and down noticeably isn't.

  • Author

Yeah I know these engines is always shaking, but I'm sure it can run much better then now. The fuel economy is also not god as it should be. (1.2 Liter/Hour insted of 0.8, on idle)

The engine also sounds like a 2 stroke motorcycle engine. (only at idle) I'm sure it's not good.

Any ideas?

Thaks !!

  • Author

WooHoo !!

My Fabia is runnin and sound perfect again :)

The injectors was replaced with new ones, intake gasket replaced.

Now it's all good :)

Thanks for everyone who tried to help !!

Edited by oori002

  • 1 year later...

WooHoo !!

My Fabia is runnin and sound perfect again :)

The injectors was replaced with new ones, intake gasket replaced.

Now it's all good :)

Thanks for everyone who tried to help !!

 

 

sory i have this broplem in fabia 1200 cc 3 clinder

wat u mean The injectors was replaced with new one

wat is the injectors??

eny one answer me pls

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a similar problem, my 1.4mpi drives so long before doing a weird "chug" or misfire type of jolt and then I'm left with little acceleration power at all and increased fuel consumption, sometimes it makes the EML come on but it always goes off before I get time to pop to a garage. when this all happens, if I stop, leave the car for a while it starts and goes fine again for so long before the cycle starts again. help?

  • 2 years later...

Heloo from finland! I have also idle problem in my 2005 1.4 mpi fabia. It have very bad idle and suffocating almost every time when i give more rpm and let it back to idle.. MAP sensor fault everytime in log and engine warning light comes on. I have change map sensor,throttle actuator,lambda also check timing and it gives every time same code. Plz help me

If you've changed the MAP sensor and cleared the codes and then the code comes straight back, I'd definitely check the wiring to the sensor very carefully.

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^ Agreed.

As far as I can see, you should have:

 

MAP sensor connector pin number 1 - brown/blue wire to ECU connector pin 107

MAP sensor connector pin number 2 - white wire to ECU connector pin 93

MAP sensor connector pin number 3 - red/green wire to ECU connector pin 96

MAP sensor connector pin number 4 - brown/white wire to ECU connector pin 95

all 4 wires are tested with 21w test lamp, between map sensor connector and ecu connector. I'am new here and this is first post. Immedialtly 2 answer,GREAT! I think we can solve this broplem!! :) :)

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What is the number of the fault code you're getting every time?

More likely an air leak than a faulty sensor, when the ECU senses that the manifold pressure is not what it's expecting then it flags a MAP fault, it cross-references manifold depression with the throttle position sensor reading to calculate expected pressure then compares with the MAP reading. Check all the vacuum lines, particularly the brake servo line and the inlet manifold gasket.

and now its going even weird. drived 30km and now getting P0402 EGR flow exessive detected( too much flow) and EGR valve are also new... 

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Was the engine ECU adapted to the new throttle body and EGR valve after they were fitted?

 

I didn't realise you had a 16-valve engine until the title of your video "BKY" showed me: usually (on here) the MPI description refers to the 8-valve engines.

yes, ECU is adapted with new throttle body and also EGR is adapted. intake manifold pressure are something over 600mbar @idle when i think it should be something round 150-250mbar... WHY??? also check brake booster vacuum and tank vapor valve,if both plugged off, same problem.  

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Crankcase ventilation valve broken, allowing too much breathing at idle?  There's a pressure equalisation vent on the side of the PCV valve I think, that will be sucking air if the diaphragm inside is ruptured.

 

Here's an image stolen from an ebay advert of the PCV on a BKY engine, rather inaccessible from above (back of engine, under intake manifold), but maybe not too bad from below.  Leak also possible in the hose that connects from the yellow-plugged point to the throttle body/intake manifold.

 

BKY%20PCV.png

 

I can look at a log and tell you what the intake manifold pressure at idle is in my BBY.  (Seems to be around 300mbar, I think)

Edited by Wino

Thanks for trying,but also crankcase ventilation system are new and skoda original part. Also try disconnect ventilation hose and leave crankcase vent outside air and plugged off intake manifold hole.

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:sweat:  You have put a lot into fixing this already!

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With the new info about your engine code, the wiring to the MAP sensor is different from what I posted before, and can be checked more.  Pin 3 of the 4-pin MAP connector should be +5V, and pin 1 is 0V (chassis) so you could measure between those pins with ignition on to see if that 5V is present/correct?

Edited by Wino

pin 3 5v are shared with EGR and camsaft position sensor and it is ok! also pin 1 (ground) are ok!   ihave a VAS5052A at my workshop, already stared datalist many hours and tried to understand what happens today with hot engine idle was VERY bad, hole engine shaking and stopped many times.. also timing have been checked.. and its ok!  if i take a oil cap away, there are comparative big vacuum, and idle is disturbed when taking it off. 

 

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I find the oil cap is pulled back down quite firmly when you try to remove it with engine running, and it certainly affects the idle, so I don't see that as a problem.

 

What does the intake air temperature read with fully warmed up engine, idling? 

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Have you tried measuring compression? I'm just wondering if you might get symptoms like yours with a small cylinder-to-cylinder head gasket leak?

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