This is one of those days..... a few days ago I noticed a knocking noise from the car front.

Today at lunchtime I decided to lift the offside front up remove the wheel and have a look.

Went to unlock the car, and noticed left rear door did not unlock. Locked then unlocked and it was fine. Happened once before.

Then opened the driver's door, and flicked the boot opening button to get to the jack - boot did not unlock. Don't know if dodgy switch or just imagining things. Boot did however open when I pressed the actual button on the boot lid.

Looking for the jack I found I had a lot of water in the boot - seemed to originate from the right hand side deep pocket. Ouch. Spare wheel was all wet as well as the carpet.

Got the jack.

Jacked the car up to find a broken spring.

Brilliant.

As I said, one of those days.........

As mine is a 2.5 tdi, it needs those heavier springs. They ain't cheap, but not too bad either. I am actually considering Bilstein B3 springs, they come in at £73 a pair delivered (OEM spec but think better quality than OEM). GSF carports don't even list front springs for a 2.5 tdi, and rear ones are about £50 each (some unknown brand). Also considering changing the whole system in fact. Friends tell me it's pointless. But at 100k miles probably not a bad idea. I have noticed a bit of wetness on the rear shocks, and the car is wallowy. MOT in June. Think will pass though, but would not mind less "wallowyness".

To get OEM spec front springs (Bilstein B3), rear springs (Heavy duty Bilstein B3 spec - the car is regularly run quite heavily loaded which makes it sag quite embarrassingly), and 4 x Bilstein B4 dampers (again OEM spec) - I did consider B6 but they are £100+ a corner - if I was planning to keep the car 5 years no probe, but doubt it. The whole package would come to £350, so not too bad. I'd invite opinions on that. A friend can lend me some spring compressors - is this an easy enough DIY job?

Boot water - that does worry me - is it likely to be rear right light cluster seal or another drain blocked - another B5 gem I read on Google... keep 'em comin'...

Rear door lock sticky - is this likely to be requiring a bit of lube-up in the mechanism or are we looking at something more elaborate (and expensive).

I have had 2 trouble free years, but now it's all kicking off. I am for that reason a bit hesitant to spend money on it, but want a safe and functional car while I own it and before trading up to something newer. Needless to say, I am a bit annoyed - we have been having a very "droughty" weather here (read: lots and lots of rain) and the car has started falling apart.

This might be related to the "water in my boot phenomenon"....

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/311783-rear-sunroof-drain-exposed.html

sorry to hear about your pain chap, hope you can get it sorted.

Sorry to hear your trouble...

Re suspension, quality of springs matter less than quality of shocks.

Also, I found GSF springs to be sagging quite quickly on the Octy. As do Eibach springs. I went back to using VW/Skoda springs only.

B6 shocks are expensive but worth every penny, they last forever. In my use, OEM shocks are loose after 15k miles (both Octy and Superb, I had cars from new), by comparison Bilstein B6s on my Superb have covered now 90k miles and still feel as the day I put them on the car.

Description of my setup is here, you might want to read it as it might fit your purpose, it is Skoda springs and B6 shocks, with HD springs at rear.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222249-suspension-overhaul-time/page__view__findpost__p__2633096

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/133367-skoda-superb-wheels-suspension/page__view__findpost__p__1674151

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/192363-tyres-handling-and-curing-understeer/page__view__findpost__p__2294570

OK, water in boot resolved I think. Pulled all the RHS interior boot trim off and found that the sunroof drain pipe was plugged, so a few penetrations with my screwdriver and re-assembly should get it sorted. Oh yes, mopped up all the water too, and took the drain out below the spare wheel, just to drain it all off, and left it out while I'm not driving the car waiting for the new springs/dampers to arrive.

Door lock - definitely playing up - anyone any advice on that?

Thanks for the suspension advice. How much do HD rear springs sit higher than OEM?

Would HD springs work with B4 dampers? I know B4s have a narrower movement range with optimal damping rate than B6s, so with HD springs sitting higher (with car unloaded) would the car become bouncier in the back? Don't want that.

Also, do you have any experience with Bilstein springs? ECP do front springs for around £90 EACH. I can get front Bilstein B3s for £36 each. So seem like a bit of a bargain by comparison I hope they don't sag like Eibachs.

Edited 10 May, 201214 yr by oh_superb

You do need stiffer shocks with HD springs. They put the rear of car higher by about 20mm, but like with most nose-heavy cars it is the front shocks and springs that control handling most.

I have not tried Bilstein springs at all, let me know how they fare, it would be good to have a reputable and lower cost alternative to dealer prices.

Thanks. What I will most likely do now is change front springs and shocks, as the springs are changed in pairs, and once the assembly is apart, might as well do it all. Then address the rear end at some other point in time - because if I change just the shocks on the rear (to B4) then that will stop me installing HD springs later. So once I've saved up ;-) I might have to do HD B3 +B6s on the rear.

But my front end is the main concern right now, so will focus on that.

Actually, how about I make it a better day for you for a change - I still have original Skoda rear HD shock absorbers wasting space in my garage, 15k miles on them, still very good, I replaced them only because I found out how good the front Bilstein B6s were (and yes, with rear on B6s it got yet better).

I also have Skoda front sport springs, note these were intended for manual not automatic V6, and so will result in 25mm front drop, not 20mm. If you get rear HD springs from somewhere to match these front sport springs, the front will be dropped about 20mm, rear raised about 15mm, and handling a lot better so long as front shocks are stiff enough (come on, get those B6s, you know they're worth it).

I am currently using the V6 auto front sport springs, and I want to keep the Skoda HD front springs that came with my car in case I need to go back to offroad height, so you are not getting these

So if you fancy these, and are prepared to Paypal me the GBP21.90 Royal Mail Standard Parcel Service 20kg shipping charge, the front sport springs, and the rear HD shock absorbers can be yours for the price of a "thank you"

PM me if you are interested.

Edited 11 May, 201214 yr by dieselV6

That is a good offer.

Door lock? - probably sticking solenoid, a known fault. If so, it will intermittently play up but generally get worse, then one day refuse to open. Permanently, unless you are lucky.

Suggest you disconnect the power at the multiplug within the rubber bellows on the B pillar, while the lock is working - this will disable central locking, electric window and puddle light, but you can still open and lock the door manually. New lock is common with Passat, but about £100.

Door lock? - probably sticking solenoid, a known fault. If so, it will intermittently play up but generally get worse, then one day refuse to open. Permanently, unless you are lucky.

Suggest you disconnect the power at the multiplug within the rubber bellows on the B pillar, while the lock is working - this will disable central locking, electric window and puddle light, but you can still open and lock the door manually. New lock is common with Passat, but about £100.

Would this be the offending mechanism?? http://www.ebay.co.u...e3#ht_739wt_951

And would this procedure likely fix it? http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/310280-diy-rear-door-disassembly-lock-mechanism-repair-intermittent-lock.html

Edited 11 May, 201214 yr by oh_superb

Would this be the offending mechanism?? http://www.ebay.co.u...e3#ht_739wt_951

And would this procedure likely fix it? http://www.passatwor...ttent-lock.html

Looks like the offending item OK (but don't have the part number with me at work) - though you will need to attach the plastic bracket as shown in one of the pictures on the passatworld link and here;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-SUPERB-PASSENGER-SIDE-REAR-DOOR-LOCK-MECHANISM-3U5839767A?item=221008913030&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26itu%3DI%252BUA%26otn%3D12%26pmod%3D110872436451%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8409012769640276161

(attaches to the lock with two rivets). The lock is the same on Superbs and Passats, but the plastic bracket is model specific (though cheap). 90 day guarantee? on a part that's known to fail? You pays your money and takes your choice I guess...

Wish I'd had access to that guide when I did my door. (It's the same door and the car's even the same colour - though doesn't the VW door look short!!)

cheers

Edited 14 May, 201214 yr by sidewaze samm

If you are still stuck wrt front springs, have a word with GSF as they will access springs that they do not put in their catalogue.

Lesjofors is where they source some of the springs from - and these people are spring manufacturers and not just resellers like others.

Maybe look on the Lesjofors website are the correct spring p/n for your car.

If they're of any use to you I have a full set of oem springs from my 1.9 130. They only covered 15k, mostly motorway too so they're basically new. I'm guessing with the heavier 2.5 lump you may have different spec springs. though if you find out otherwise, drop me a PM.