Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
due to my new job I drive a lot of hire cars. I've noticed the steering on them is always much much lighter than on my 51 octavia estate. This has led me to wonder if there might even be something wrong with the power steering on my car. is it just heavier because of its age? To give some more detail, when turning the wheel when stopped, I really have to wrench it around, whereas on the Ford Focus estate ecoboost i was driving the other day you could practically turn the wheel with one finger
any advice much appreciated!
p.s also I have a small oil leak coming from the sump, is it common for octavias to leak from the gasket or the sump plug??
My woes continue with the new ride Superb 2 DSG 170 2011 88k. 5 days of no driving took it to work having topped up £10 of Shell standard derv. (See other thread about my requirements for range). Trek is 95 miles at 6am. 6.5 degrees on temperature gauge most of trip today.
The car stats into the journey.
oil temp 70 as does the temp gauge say the same. Again this should have reached 90 like it usually does well before this. Has done this before with some coolant low issues(another thread) that's fine now too.
Anyway 85 miles into journey of gently 70ish cruising I have to slow down for traffic and the glow plug light is flashing and I then notice when accelerating there is a distinct lack of turbo boost. I think this is defianately limp mode. Anyway continued off the motorway at the next junction and into the work car park. Light still flashing no other warnings.
Having read around the net and Briskoda there is a exhaust sensor fault and perhaps other things, like a DSG temperature sensor for the needle issue ?
I am now deeply suspicious that the low temperature and my sedate albeit motorway speed driving today could have been the cause of this ?
Restarting it at work no warning this morning.
Fast forward to 16.30 journey home. Outside temperature 22 according to car. It's up to the 90 on the needle after about 5-10 miles. Decide to drive it in sport a little and run it at 3.5k revs for a mile in a low gear. All the way home mixture of driving motorway sport mode/ drive mode. Stop start traffic. No issues whatsoever ever.
Refueled before parking up at 18.40. Perfect.
Tried to use my simple code reader. Refuses to read the engine code and abs. Airbag ok. Thought I may as well check everything.
So in the absence of a code reader. What am I looking at here ?
I have 2005r. Fabia and I need to replace driver side mirror with 3 pin plug. I can only find 5 pin plug on ebay, will it work ?? What are the other 2 cables in 5pin plug doing? My one is electric and heated. Does any one know if octavia MK1 mirror fit Fabia ??
Thanks for help
I need some advice, I drive a Skoda Octavia Elegance 2010 2.0 Tdi
In a nutshell, the sump needed replacing, did that and drove for 10 mins, now engine needs replacing.
I’ll tell you the full story. A couple of weeks I was driving and all of a sudden had the red oil lamp light on, I pulled up and checked my oil. It was running really low. The nearest petrol pump was 5mins away, so I spun the car round and probably drove 50 yards. The car started to lose power, before it did, I pulled up to the left and had RAC come out. He toed it to the garage. The mechanic said there is a great big hole in the sump and basically oil has leaked, this will need replacing. I managed to find one for £60 second hand & had it fitted.
In terms of sump damage, I’m not sure how this happened, as id not hit anything, apart from going over a few speed bumps at 30/40mph. I suspect that still shouldn’t have clipped the sump to cause a hole? Id have to do 60+. The Skoda is very sturdy and manages bumps very well. I suspect there was some leakage before hand and now its managed to expand, any thoughts?
Anyway, before getting the car back the mechanic took it for a spin for about 10mins and confirmed the car was in perfect working condition. When I got the car from him, I drove for about ½ hour and all of a sudden heard the ‘low on oil’ noise.. I managed to check the oil on a flat surface, to find it was very low on oil. I called my mechanic, he told me to drive down to his garage.. by the time I got near his garage, the car stopped on me.. presumably because of no oil. I then got it toed in.
He has now told me the engine needs replacing. I asked why this was, he said 1 of 2 reasons either 1) the damage to the car that caused the sump damage, in fact caused damage to the engine shaft (the bit that’s related to oil), but this could not be known at the time. I reiterate, the only way I could have damaged it is by going over a speed bump, so is it possible for the Engine to get messed up because of driving over a speed bump? The engine is so much higher, also objects like the sump are in the way? Or 2) When the car first broke down, you tried driving it, as there was no oil, the engine was running dry so one the engine ceased. I told him, I literally turned around and there was still oil. Oil could be seen on the road and the toe truck when we got off. The second time oil was low, I delibereatly called him to get advice, he told me to drive down so I did. So it is possible the engine was damaged at this point. I was driving for a good 1/2hr continuous, there didnt seems like there was damage.
So I want to know whether this is possible and who is liable. As far as I’m concerned he affirmed that the car was in working order. Its possible that due to damage further damage has been caused but I was under his instruction.
Hello fellow briskodians
My first car is a 1.9 D 2000 vintage Felly and it has a problem, or should i say it HAD a problem.
So let me describe.
I had a problem where upon ignition,when the engine is cold and when it's warm outside, the glowplug light lights up for a second or so and then starts flashing, the engine will turn on but only after a second or so of cranking and the glowplug light flashes until the ECU drops the idle RPM, but when it's cold outside i need to crank a bit more 4-5 seconds.
Now when the engine is cold that problem goes away and the glowplug light (as well as glowplugs) turns on solid and turn off as usual, which pointed to the infamous felly hotstart problem, but it isn't because if i immediately shut the engine off and then try to turn it back on again, no go ,same problem.
Same goes if the engine warms up after a bit of running.
I searched the internet far and wide and i never found anybody with the same, or similar problem.
And so My troubleshooting adventure begins
I checked the temp sensors resistances and according to the fellys official service manuals it's ok.
Then i checked the glowplugs themselves and measured both individual resistances as well as bulk current draw and ,
again compared to the service manuals they were fine.
The glowplug relay was ruled out based on the fact that when engine is cold glowplugs turn on.
So the only component left was the ECU for which i do not have excess money to spend on so i just got used to the problem.
Then I (driven by the lack of money) tested the output from the ECU to the GP. relay and while testing that AHA , boom , There is yu'r problem !!! the glowplugs turned on as i put some sideways pressure on the relay itself.
At first i thought that relay plug contacts were bent and dirty but it turns out that the relay is faulty. I opened the relay and there is a small pcb inside mounted to the side, connecting the coil itself to the contacts to the bottom and a bleeder resistor across the coil, and there it was ,the cause of my agony, a bad solder joint on the on the coil , more precisely a cold solder joint, so when it is cold inside engine compartment the joint shrinks and it makes contact so the glowplugs turn on but as the ECU keeps the coil energised or 10 or so seconds the coil heats up (or when the engine compartment warms up) and the joint expands thus breaking contact and , sad day , NO GLOWPLUGS for me !!!
Key is turned - ECU tries to energise the relay - bad relay - no glowplugs -no current draw sensed by ECU - ECU confused - ECU flashes the glowplug light until it switches to the next routine.
Needles to say that a simple resoldering of the mentioned solder joint solved the problem :-)
And the best part is that It was free!!!
Now the relay itself is not that expensive so i would probably buy it if i only knew that it was the cause of the problem, but the intermittent fault led me to the wrong conclusion.
Afterall there is a moral of the story, that i should of gone by because it's the second commandment of electronics: "Never , and I mean NEVER assume anything when troubleshooting something. Murphy will get you"
I am interested , does anyone else have this problem.
BTW Sorry for the long post but i just wanted to share my experience as detailed as possible with You because i couldn't find any similar problem on the interwebs.
Cheers from the Knight in the white felly.