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Rear window washer pipe fractured 07 Roomster


Scottie

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Hi

Filled washer resevoir, used rear window washer....................no jet. Thinks ..ok..........jet blocked. Cleans and tries again.......washer water pouring from under rear bumper plus a smell of washer in car. Thinks...........washer pipe has popped loose from rear wiper assembly. Stripped panels off hatch.................pipe fixture secure. Tried washer again and same flow of washer liquid.

Traced black corrugated pipework back up hatch to rubber tube between upper nearside hatch and car body which protects rear wiring and pipe from damage. Popped the two grommets and found that the black corrugated pipe was totally severed, thus washer water running through grommet and draining down nearside rear pillar.

Have effected a sort of repair by using a 5mm polythene connector but this is not really able to fit into the space easily.

Looking at the design it is the obvious weak point as it flexes as the hatch opens and closes.

The main problem is that the pipe is 'loomed' to the wiring and there is no spare movement.

Any other suggestions for a permanent fix for this issue.

Thanks

Scottie

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My VAG mechanic told me to avoid using the rear washer if possible as it's a common fault with it, either there or at the nozzle end leaking back into the tailgate and shorting the wires, haven't had any issues yet but then again I've made it a point not to use the spray function on it since then

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This is a common problem on the Sharan/Alhambra/Galaxy. Water freezes in the pipe which then fractures when tailgate is opened quickly in cold weather.

Raising screenwash concentration and opening tailgate slowly in cold weather can help but other than that - no cure

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Thanks for replies..................seems I am on the luckier side in that no damage was caused. I'll note whay you say Wilbur and I'll watch out for that one. I'll take same advice Grafitti and only use when I absolutely have to.

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Just to reiterate the leakage issue. Yesterday I ran out of washer fluid and after filling up and working it through the pipes again I accidentally gave the rear window a few sprays - as the nozzle is partly blocked it doesn't spray hard enough and so some ends up leaking back inside. No issues immediately but later on the boot started popping open every time i turned the key in the ignition. Verified I wasn't pressing the middle button, used the second key as well, same issue. Had to start the car, then get out and close the tailgate before driving off. I tried it at least 10 times over a couple hours, always the same thing. When i got home put a hairdryer to it on medium heat, gave it 5 minutes or so and tried again - no more auto opening. I'm convinced it had something to do with the tailgate spray.

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  • 1 year later...

I know that this issue was completed in December 2012 but I would like to revisit it.

 

Over the past few months, I have had an intermittent fault on my 07 Roomster. When driving, occasionally the Door Warning Light would light up on the Dashboard and would give an alarm signal on taking off. I checked with all the doors and tailgate but the light stayed on. If I set the alarm, it would seem OK but about 2 minutes later the Alarm would sound. (Not a good idea late at night). Next time I used the car, it was OK, no Door Warning Light etc. This has gone on infrequently for the last couple of months then it happens again. Could not get to the bottom of it.

 

Early this week, I tried the Rear Window washer, no water, thought that I had run out. Filled it, tried again and still it did not work. (But the Door Fault problem came back). Went to see local mechanic, he checked and, yes, Rear Window Pipe Fractured. He phoned local Skoda Dealer, quoted £115 for a complete new pipe (which he did not take up). He fixed and glued a piece of Brake Pipe within the 2 pieces of the Black Pipe and hey presto, all is fixed, both the Rear Washer and the intermittent Fault of Door Warning Light. Water leak caused Electrical fault with the Tailgate.

 

 

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  • 8 months later...
  • 6 years later...

Thanks for all the brilliant advice. I have a 2015 Roomster. The alarm going off, boot space and dashboard 'door' light flickering, no spray on rear screen. 
I managed to remove the trim panels (I modified the end of a cheese knife to get in under the spring clips). The sound insulation was soaked with washer fluid. I disconnected the pipe connector and the electrical block (behind the top panel) - which was soaked. Dried everything out and could see tracking marks on both halves of the block. Delicately scraped the residue away to get back to clean plastic. Reconnect the block and all ok. 
The washer pipe - how do I fix that? As someone mentioned, the pipe forms part of the wiring loom and is bound together with the wires.
I've not tried to remove the flexible boot ends from either the tailgate or the car body. It looks as if it has been stuck down! 
I was going to attempt to free the car side of the flexible boot. Release the electrical block and pull some loom/pipe up from the car. Cut the pipe and install an 'IN LINE connector! to a new pipe . Use electrical ratchet ties to secures. Push the repair joint back into the car body. 
Do the same for the other end of the flexible boot, not sure how much 'free play' I can achieve to pull the loom/pipe up, but hope that releasing some of the cable clips within the tailgate will suffice.
a) will in line pipe connectors work?
b) will ratchet ties be good enough to secure?
c) what pipe should I use - seeing it's going to be 'flexing' within the flexible boot?
d) what do I use to seal the flexible boot back to the metal - if indeed it is 'stuck' down?

So many questions - sorry.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm watching this with interest. My rear wiper stopped working so I pulled the rubber boot back between the tailgate and car and found one of the wires had broken. I've also discovered that the washer pipe is broken. 

 

What size is the pipe? I'm going to get some connectors and fix it that way. 

 

In terms of the boot, it's not stuck down. There are plastic grommets clipped into the metal at both holes, and the rubber fits around a lip in both. Get a screwdriver under the rubber and you can gently peel it away from the grommet.

 

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Most impresses with the plastic retainer at the end of each boot. As you say, peel the rubber away, freeing the boot. The plastic clips remain behind. They have to be wrinkled out of the holes. You have to fit the plastic back into the ends of the boot. AFTER the repair is done, Simplicity myself to push them back into the body work holes - until you hear a CLICK. 

I used 8mm dia glued shrink sleeve to join the washers pipe together. I cut 25mm of it to affect the repair. It was a pain keeping the 2 ends of the pipe together while applying the heat. I put a (doubled) layer of foil loosely  around the pipe, to direct the heat round the back of the pipe. Seems to be ok so far 

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I’ve recently used the Sencom 888913 repair kit and the new pipe has push connectors that are held together with heat shrink sleeving. I used the kit as all of the wires in the loom were damaged in some way the only thing that was still intact was the washer pipe.   

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497263-sencom-tailgate-loom-repair/

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