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Hi guys!

I have read a few posts regarding a common Skoda issue with the door control unit corrosion/door locking problems and would like to hear your experiences resolving it.

We have problems with our 2006 Octavia estate passenger’s door (right side). It started with a bass speaker occasionally cutting off and then completely dieing, soon followed by the twitter speaker. This was couple of months back and I was planning to repair it as soon as I get some panel clips which usually break with the removal.

Then a few days ago the window stopped working and with the next use, also the central locking on the passenger’s door decided to lock for good. By inspection I have realised that the mirror motor and heating are dead, as well as all the lights on it (the indicator and the illuminating light (Elegance package)). The door is now completely dead (nothing works not even the led illuminating the window switch). Today I have also realised that when locking the car using the remote, none of the indicators blink like they suppose to indicating that the car is locked. I assume this is problem is related to faulty door control box?

I would be interested to know if there is any way to open the door? I have also read about the power supply faults in the central pillar (all the wires suppose to come from there).

As far as I understand it should be possible to remove the door trim panel while the doors closed by removing the passenger’s seat to gain access and unscrewing the two torx screws on the bottom edge of the panel. Has anyone done this before?

My plan is to inspect the door control box behind the panel which is probably corroded and needs to be cleaned/contact sprayed/replaced. Hopefully this should restore all functionalities including unlocking the door. Am I correct?

Does anyone know if the control boxes are separate for each door or is there the one on the drivers side also (partly) controlling the passenger side?

Thanks for our answers!

Cheers!

T.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

This is becoming irritating.

Last WE I removed the passenger’s seat, all bottom trim underneath front and rear doors and the middle pillar on the right side of the car (continental car). There is just enough space to reach the bottom torx screws and remove the trim panel. The tricky part of the job is the forward upper part of the panel where it is closely fit with the front dashboard. Considering the tight fit, I was surprised to only break two plastic clips in the process.

The door control unit on our 2006 Octavia Elegance is a bit different then anything I have seen on these pages. It is also protected from the elements with the solid door carrier assembly (no membrane). The control unit was tricky to remove as it slides in on the rest of the motor unit very close to the door’s carrier assembly. I didn’t want to remove the whole motor as I had no idea if the window would fall down or not. I have managed to fiddle it off by half undoing the screws of the motor unit and initially releasing the front and back plastic clips. There are quite complicated electronics inside (panel which looks like a computer’s motherboard – loads of chips and electronic parts). Three separate connectors with cables are clipped directly on it. I have sprayed all three with WD40.

When reconnecting the battery everything started to work again and the door unlocked using the remote. It worked fine until today when the same problem appeared, this time with the doors staying unlocked (nothing on the doors works).

I am thinking to replace the whole window motor unit along with the control unit now (around 60 £). Does anyone of you know if I have to secure the window first? According to Haynes manual it is a straight forward job (just three screws and replace).

Also I have disconnected the battery only after I have already removed the seat so consequently the airbag light went on. This probably just needs to be reset?

Thanks guys!

Not sure if this will be of any help to you now, but may help someone else in the future. I would think they are similar if not the same design.

For window drop I would just use duck tape and on outside put it on glass, over top of door and onto inside of glass just in case, then there is no risk. I would imagine the air bag light is a straight forward reset.

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  • Author

Thanks Fubar.

I have tried today again, striped down the door, spray the contacts and put it back together. Still dead.

Will try to find a spare motor/control unit tomorrow.

Cheers

T.

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