I just brought a pair of oem replacement front wings for my pickup as im getting ready to respray it matte black, the wings which i expected to be coated in primer appear to be a sort of satin black. After looking at various replacement panels for various different cars, many come in this black colour. What i want to is, is this primer or an actual paint as i really like the colour and prefer it to matte black. If so what colour is it or the colour code if anyone knows? Many thanks

It is a primer coat for two pack paint and should need another primer coat suitable for spray paint if being rattle can sprayed. This is what I was told when I ordered a replacement wing.

If they are genuine panels the coating is oven baked etch primer.

For best results wash with meths or prepaint wipe then flat well but leave as much as possible on-very fine abrasive sponges are good for this, then prime and paint. I use a non sand etch primer on top then colour.

Edited 3 January, 201313 yr by rolo

The black stuff is an e-coat on new panels, you should only use etch primer on bare metals too.

Will have to disagree on that tom.

The 'substance' sprayed on wings is a joke, however you may call it. It is the cheapest coat of 'something' over metal, good only to protect it from rust till delivery.

If you want a proper job, fine sand that 'thing' and proceed as if there's no primer at all.

well ill be spraying the whole car matte black with rattle cans and then using a spray gun to do the bed and bonnt VW brilliant orange. after your advice i think i will hammerite the inside of the wings befor fitting and then primer the otherside asif it was bare metal. Thanks guys

Just remember that matte black or satin black are porous (like primer) so any bare metal (or primed bare metal) will need a coat of colour over them 1st to seal the paint or rust will come through (quite quickly too).

Just remember that matte black or satin black are porous (like primer) so any bare metal (or primed bare metal) will need a coat of colour over them 1st to seal the paint or rust will come through (quite quickly too).

yeah im going to primer the new panels and the old ones that aint being replaced im just going to rub off the lacquer then paint straight over the exsiting white paint

Has your wagon got metallic paint then? You don't need to rub the lacquer off, just flat it using red scotchbrite.

As far as i am aware, it looks to be, amd even eaiser then less prep work for me

you need only to scotch pad truck. need primer on new bare metal i had to wet and dry my bonnet as it was metallic silver as scotch pad mad it react as it was lacquer and now sprayed matt black and i jet wash car and paint still on bonnet

yeah im going to primer the new panels and the old ones that aint being replaced im just going to rub off the lacquer then paint straight over the exsiting white paint

Your missing the point, if you only prime and then matte/satin black the new panels, all of the paint on the new panel will be porous and it will turn orange faily quickly. You need to 1st put a coat of 'gloss' over to seal it, then satin/matte it over the top.

As to prepping existing paint, makes no difference if its solid, metalic, pearl or metal flake, just needs to be key'd back.

Any reaction you had would most likely have been either through not cleaning back the panel 100% (I suspect it still had traces of polish left on it), or possibly even something like WD40 being used near by. The Laquer would have been the same paint type as the base coat below it, so sanding it off should have made no difference

scotchbrite pads are surprisingly good at it (think the last time I used them for a respray prep we used blue ones, was what the paint supplier had in stock), but I prefer using a DA with 240 grit pads as I normally have chips and scratches to resolve at the same time

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/186832-the-painters-are-in/

here is the thread from when I painted mine if any body wants to look.

@ craig1010cc

What type of paint are you referring to when you say matt & satin black is porous? Unless you are talking about water based, my understanding is the paint is the same as finishing gloss but with a matting agent added to avoid the gloss finish, for example I've used Upol satin black for years (on top of prepped primer coats as I would with gloss top coats) on under bonnet metalwork & bracketry etc. I've never had any rust issues as a result??

Best example is a 1955 Beetle tank I did satin black during a restoration in 1989 it's still sat in my garage now and is as good as the day it went on!

I'm referring to the normal satin/matte black rattle cans (like you get for Halfords ect), as they are technically primers.

As you can see on teh front wing of my mini below, I sanded back a couple of dents and then filled/ grey primed and the satin blacked. This was take within 12 months of originally painting it and was stored under cover/ not used a great deal

Hi Craig,

I don't have experience of using Halfords paint, but the professional convenience paints such as Upol matts/satins sold in rattle cans are exactly the same formulation as gloss finish coats, they use a matting agent at 5% to 10% solvent volume to lose the gloss. They are not water permiable and specifically designed for finish coat use.

I checked the above with my supplier this morning .

Probably best to avoid the cheap (quality, not price!) Halfords crap!

Edited 9 January, 201313 yr by favguy

Interesting to hear. It wasn't actually Hallfords that I used (although I do find I get a good finish from their paints), this was the aftermath of painting mine (went all satin black originally, then after a year got bored and did the metalflake red top 2 days before the show at castle coombe, all rattle can'd again)

yea, proper satin black is gloss with a small quantity of matting agent added and not porous. The wing repair looks like bare metal not etched then too little primer was the problem.

I think you are all barking up the wrong tree! (he he) I painted my truck with a tin of oil based primer from tool station and a mini sponge roller. I had meant to put a top coat on, but I never got further than buying the paint. Yup I know I can't ever go back to proper car paint easily, but I'm happy with the finish, its obvously a matt finish, but I usually have to point out to people that I rollered it, which always gets s******s! I didn't ever buy my £510 truck as a show car and unless the car is stationary and somone is standing close it is difficult to tell its been rollered. When I bought the truck I was a poor student teacher and wanted to make the truck as (vaguely!) presentable as possible before starting my first teaching job (it had dark green doors and bonnet) I did buy 'proper' paint to paint it but I didn't have anywhere undercover to paint it, I'm also not a professional sprayer and would have probably ended up with a crap finish anyway!

I guess its horses for courses and my truck certainly isn't everyones cup of tea. I wouldn't change the finish given the choice now, very easy to repaint, little prep needed and very cheap (£15) to repaint. I am gonna go matt black in the summer, using oil based blackboard paint!

I painted my truck with a tin of oil based primer from tool station and a mini sponge roller

Would love to see pics of this

yea, proper satin black is gloss with a small quantity of matting agent added and not porous. The wing repair looks like bare metal not etched then too little primer was the problem.

You could be right, i don't think I etched it, but it would have had 3 coats of 'normal' primer on it.

Roller painting I do like too, that is how I've repainted the mini

went from this

to this (2 coats rolled on, not flatted or polished at this point, paint only 2 days old :p

and currently looks like (not bad for £50 paint job )

waiting for me to finish rebuilding it :p