Felicia 1.3 carburetor tuning

[KenONeill]

I agree that's the end of a spring; with the photo being so tightly framed I can't tell whether it's a return spring or an anti-vibration spring on an adjustor though.

It doesn't help any that the camera can't focus that close either; it probably can't focus correctly at a distance of less than 30cm from the subject.

[PaulWalls]

Yes I admit my camera isn't a good one. Sorry! But I do know the difference between a coil spring and a piece of wire even though I am an amateur mechanic. I just need to improve the photos. I am sure you will see the wire very clearly. I myself helped the mechanic to find such a piece of wire and he warned me "not to take it away".

[PaulWalls]

I can't never get 5,000 rpm when I am driving. I can't go further than 3,200 rpm. Is the carburetor guilty for this condition? According to the manual a Felicia 1.3 should be able to develop 45 Kw = 60.3 HP @ 5,000 rpm!

[robk1]

I can't never get 5,000 rpm when I am driving. I can't go further than 3,200 rpm. Is the carburetor guilty for this condition? According to the manual a Felicia 1.3 should be able to develop 45 Kw = 60.3 HP @ 5,000 rpm!

I've rarely if ever gone to 5000 rpm in my fellys, but 3200 is very restrictive! Have you checked the operation of the throttle linkage to ensure that's not the limiting factor?

[adurer]

Aside from having issues with 1^st stage throttle opening due to acceleration cable faulty, there might be other problems such as:

- 2^nd stage throttle not opening (diaphragm unit leaks or vacuum hose going to it restricted)

- float defective, level incorrect

- wheels out of alignment

- dragging brakes

All those are written in the Pierburg 2E3 manual I told you about 2 times before.

Are you sure you cleaned thoroughly all carburettor orifices?

Have a look below to see what I find regularly inside after 15 years. People come to me saying they want to throw their car to scrap yard, then after I clean and re-tune the carburettor, they wouldn't sell the car for nothing.

BEFORE

AFTER chasing the bats, rats, and other creatures inside

Edited 30 January, 2013 by adurer

[PaulWalls]

I haven't tried to clean the carburetor for a second time however I did it when the engine was rebuilt. The mechanic suggested to "adapt" a japanese carb and throw away the PIERBURG 2E3. The mechanic didn't have time to learn about an eeire German carb. But I am a fan of Germany and I couldn't let it happen. You know Deutschland Deutschland über alles!

I had no idea about carburetors but I took the chance to open it and clean it. I had read and studied the PIERBURG 2E3 literature, but it didn't help me much. I had to use my intuition.

The second stage mechanism was completely stuck, I had to remove the plate, which was very hard especially due to the bloddy screws. I had to use an electric drill to penetrate and break one of the screws. I was lucky not to damage the thread where the screw was inserted. I sanded the axis and after careful work, I mounted all the pieces back. I thought I had achieved the task of my life, I was very proud of it!

Mine wasn't that bad as the one in your illustrations. I suspect is the second stage throttle as you correctly mentioned. Although it could be a defective float/ incorrect level as well. I discard the other reasons: wheels and brakes.

[PaulWalls]

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/5530/carburetormetalicbase5.jpg

Carburetor with new metalic base.

[PaulWalls]

Can someone explain what is number 1, 2, and 3?

[PaulWalls]

Why are number 1 and 2 blocked? Is it normal?

[PaulWalls]

Will this CO regulating screw help me to save gasoline if it is well settled?

[adurer]

Can someone explain what is number 1, 2, and 3?

1 is a bad joke of an amateur. It is a plug that closed the choke heating circuit. See below.

2 & 3 are two ports mounted on a bronze bolt. Two thin hoses were fitted between those ports and pull-down vacuum hose and 2^nd stage vacuum hose respectively. They used to be a method of heating air (using coolant heat) for preventing the icing phenomenon. There is no need to use it; you can take the bronze bolt out.

Why are number 1 and 2 blocked? Is it normal?

They are blocked because previous owner decided to discard the hose going from choke housing to water pump.

No, it is NOT normal.

Will this CO regulating screw help me to save gasoline if it is well settled?

That screw regulates the air/fuel mixture. When you turn it IN (clockwise) you cut the fuel and mixture gets lean. When you turn it OUT (counter clockwise) you let more fuel passing and mixture is getting rich. It is one of the most important settings of the carburettor.

[PaulWalls]

Thanks adurer I appreciate your interested in this post.

Regarding post #33: How is currently the carburetor performance affected? Should I restore the carb to its original condition?

Referring post #35: Same questions as in post #33.

[adurer]

Restore the carburettor connections and settings to factory settings as described in detail in Pierburg 2E3 - Masster manual or at least Pierburg 2E3 Haynes manual.

Otherwise we're talking in vain. If you don't understand how to do that, you need to let somebody else do it. A carburettor is a high precision, clever, yet complex device. I did my best explaining that. But it looks you keep asking simple questions instead reading how a carburettor works. I can't teach you all and I believe nobody can. Your carburettor is really messed up by previous owner(s) and by you. That 'job' you did on 2^nd stage throttle when you stripped a screw is a clear example of your lack of tools and skills. You don't brag with such disaster by naming it "the best job I did on my own."

I learned all I know about carburettors by reading non-stop any literature I could get my hands on. It took me a while to know them by heart, and I invite you do the same. Good luck!

[KenONeill]

I don't know the Pierburg carb in detail (as a Weber fan, I'm afraid of catching something ) but I agree that you need to understand how this carb works, and get it set up about right before we can really help you much further.

[Wright Bro's]

The pierburg is horribley complicated and really difficult to tune.

It's got an automatic choke controlled by the coolant temperature. I can see in your pics that the pipes have been removed and it's been blocked up so no coolant flows through it. If I were u I'd bin the pierburg carb and buy a simple twin choke weber and use a manual choke...

[adurer]

I have to disagree. I repaired almost 30 of them, each time successfully. All you have to do is working by the book, respect cleanliness rules, use the right tools and proper materials. Oh... not to mention you have to understand how it's working, and Haynes explains it very good.

[PaulWalls]

Hey adurer I CAN ASK ANYTHING I want, it is supposed to be a freee forum, it's up to you to respond or not, if you are tired or upset to aswer my "silly questions", then don't bother to read them, I see you are an expert on PIERBURG 2E3, and if you think you are sharing too much, then don't do it, I am not forcing you to share what you know. Humbleness is really something you should learn. I hope we don't start to trade insults. Thanks for your help, from my part no ill feelings and good luck to you too!

[adurer]

I only suggested to READ more about carburettors in general, then about Pierburg 2E3 in particular. You were provided the best documentation there is on the planet and I believe it took a lot of time and effort to gather, format and share.

You either mentioned you don't want to read it, or you partially read it and didn't understand. How do you suppose anyone would try to help you with such bad attitude? Because you're now biting the hand that fed you... Where I come from that is called lack of respect.

Edited 3 February, 2013 by adurer

[PaulWalls]

Adurer, Ich denke Ich bin faul und du bist fleißig! Du bist Schnell und Ich bin langsam! Es tut mir leid, du hast mir sehr geholfen. Jawohl respektiere Ich dich!

[PaulWalls]

It helped me reading this article. Check it out!

http://onemanspanner.wordpress.com/2011/06/13/pierburg-2e3-on-a-vw-vanagon/

[PaulWalls]

The second stage (Nº4 on the photo) or the secondary throttle diaphragm is not working. (please see #33 on this post). I've bought a new diaphragm because the former one was heavily leaking. I've changed the hose, the new one is tight and without leakage. I think the problem is inside the carburettor. Why it is not producing enough vacuum to pull up the lever?

[adurer]

Why it is not producing enough vacuum to pull up the lever?

Before attaching the vacuum hose of the 2nd stage diaphragm to carburetor you have to clean thoroughly the channel that gets from under the 2nd throttle plate. Use a very thin needle to break the dirt inside, then spray carburetor cleaner in that pipe till you see it come out from under the 2nd throttle plate.

[PaulWalls]

Many thanks! I will try to clean the 2nd stage channel in the way you suggest.

[Courior]

That wire you mention the mechanic told you to NOT TOUCH......... is it holding closed the choke? The symptoms you describe sound like when i leave the choke on for too long on one of my bikes... v slow and black plugs/exhaust and rubbish MPG!

 

This would be a quick, dodgy fix for the mechanic to get the car started as you said he couldn't start it after the rebuild.

 

my 2c

 

Courior

[PaulWalls]

The automatic choke had been wrongly assembled. I took my time to investigate and with a little luck I could fix the problem and I could get rid of the wire the mechanic put there because he didn't want to deal with the carburettor, he was not a Skoda specialist, he just wanted to get paid as quickly as possible. Now the carburettor works much better, I have no problems when I start the engine in the morning. If I only could get more power from the engine...