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And one here:

P1040817_zps8a8e808a.jpg

And they are all here:

P1040818_zps5e272515.jpg

The hook rail has 3 screws:

P1040821_zps309685c1.jpg

Which are under this plastic strip:, I carefully lifted one end with a knife.

P1040822_zps8c961eb5.jpg

“C” Pillar cover has one screw at the top: There is no airbag under the little cover that says airbag. The airbag is under the roof lining.

P1040819_zpsab932ed6.jpg

The “C” Pillar cover slots in at the top and clips in at the bottom before the screw goes in:

P1040820_zpsa3bbb04e.jpg

The rear center panel: Red clips go down before the yellow clips go in then 2 screws in the holes circled in blue.

P1040823_zps0ef99be8.jpg

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I didn't take any photos with the bumper off or how the actual tow bar was fitted. It’s really simple though. The bumper comes off by removing these covers:

P1040826_zps033f1eba.jpg

Like this:

P1040825_zps3081749e.jpg

And then you can remove these nuts:

P1040824_zps1e737e3c.jpg

There are 4 plugs/clips under the bumper. 2 screws at the edges which join the bumper to the inner guard and that’s about it. The bumper is not much more than a cosmetic thing. There is nothing solid behind it, which is a good thing when someone bumps you in a car park. You might break a couple of clips but the plastic bumper should bounce back and since it’s not painted it shouldn’t show a scratch too bad.

Once the bumper is off, there is a pressed metal bar that needs to be removed. There are 3 screws in one end and 4 in the other, if I remember correctly. It gets chucked out.

The tow bar itself is very simple. There are 2 flat, vertical tongues that insert into the ends of the chassis. Then 2 bolts screw into the tongues from inside the wheel arches. There is a large square tube that runs across the back of the car with the socket for the tow hitch in the middle. All the bolts have torque settings so a Torque Wrench is needed to get the right tension on the bolts.

Here is the socket visible with the cover off:

P1040829_zpsd0e92ad6.jpg

And the cover on:

P1040828_zps6cea69ff.jpg

Edited by Joel SHOEMARK
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A special thanks to Les ROBSON at http://www.silburyskoda.co.uk/ and http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/82637-yetiscot/

"yetiscot" for hook'n a brother up and Les for delivering as promised.

I had been a bit worried about the situation. The Yeti is only new as of 16 January after ordering it on 20 September. My wife and kid are in Japan and aren't expecting the Yeti until mid February. They arrive home on Saturday and I have been trying to get the Yeti ready before they arrive. I got the widows tinted and then fitted the tow bar. When I got the panels off the back and then found I had the wrong kit, I was worried that I wouldn't get the right kit before they get home but all has gone well.

We dont have 13 pin plug here in Australia so I have to order a plug from ebay and make my own adaptor cable before I can test it but at least it's all back together. For some silly reason our trailer plugs are different from the rest of the world.

I have been told our Yeti not only have "Tow Prep" as standard but they are already coded as well. I'll keep you posted. I have a workshop nearby that can do the coding if I need.

Happy Days.

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Absolutely brilliant set of instructions there Joel.

It could do with joining some of the other items in the How Do I section! (please admin!)

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  • 1 month later...

Just had towbar and single 7 pole electrics fitted by D M Keith in West Yorks. Its a Thule detatchable towbar. (There are some on e-bay for £237) The 7 pole single electrics apparently do NOT require the Canbus resetting. That is only required if a 13 point electric fitted.

Price was very good at just over £400 inclusive.

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Just had towbar and single 7 pole electrics fitted by D M Keith in West Yorks. Its a Thule detatchable towbar. (There are some on e-bay for £237) The 7 pole single electrics apparently do NOT require the Canbus resetting. That is only required if a 13 point electric fitted.

Price was very good at just over £400 inclusive.

YES THEY DO!!

If the car is not reprogrammed you will find that:

the rear parking sensors will sound everytime you try to reverse with the trailer plugged in

the In-car screen will not show the trailer

the bulb failure system will not include the trailer lights

the dash reminder that the trailer indicators aren't working won't work (illegal)

the car rear fog will stay on if the trailer is plugged in

the stability programme is not properly configured for the trailer

the alarm system will not sense the trailer

the indicators will potentially flash at the wrong rate.

I suggest you take the car back and get it correctly reprogrammed.

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Most of the stuff works when you use the Skoda branded wesfalia unit. You just miss out on the convenience stuff like the reverse sensors turning off, bulb check, etc.

There is a check to see if trailer stability is activated. I think the stability light takes 2 seconds longer to turn off after you turn on the ignition. No programming is required for that to work. I never checked that the stability was working by losing control or anything, just the light check. Mine was programmed a few days later.

Happy days

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Missing out on the "bulb failure" also means that you have no notification that the trailer indicators aren't working, and that is a LEGAL requirement, and if a 13 pin socket is fitted is checked during the MOT, so potentially means a failure.

Why do people only do half a job?

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Missing out on the "bulb failure" also means that you have no notification that the trailer indicators aren't working, and that is a LEGAL requirement,

Why do people only do half a job?

It's not a requirement in Australia.

I partly agree that it's only doing half a job, not getting it programmed but unless your lucky like I was, dealers can really rip you off by charging an arm and a leg for a 5 minute programming job. If you don't have access to someone who will make the changes for you cheap and you are happy to live without the conveniences, the so be it.

Why did Skoda only do half a job and not have these things automatically recognised once the wesfalia unit is installed? You can have these things activated without the wesfalia unit installed and everything works fine. Maybe just an error code that the wesfalia unit can not be communicated with. Apart from that it could be activated from factory and then just work when the unit is installed.

Happy days.

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I'll post some more tomorrow with the hitch in place and the socket screwed on.

Happy Days.

Awesome post. Way to go, highlighting the skinning we get in the great southern land.

Try the sat nav. 4600 from vag Australia, 1100 posted from Europe.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk HD

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  • 1 month later...

Hi - I am ordering a new Yeti and will need a tow bar with a flange AL-KO tow ball so that I can mount a Thule Cycle Rack. From looking at the brochure, it looks as if the Skoda one is a different, detachable type. Am I right in thinking I need to get someone other than Skoda to fit the AL-KO type - and in which case should I still go for the Skoda tow bar preparation option? I do not wish to fit the bar myself, and was rather disappointed with the quality of work from one of the national tow bar companies when they fitted a bar to my present Mondeo. Any advice would be great!

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Would any flange-mount tow bar work, or does it have to be a specific Al-Ko one? My understanding of the Thule system is that any flange-mount will do. I think Johann (9000000000000) might use that system.

The Skoda one is a detachable swan neck type.

Go for the basic tow bar prep as this will give you all the relevant and correct electrical connections that an independent fitter can just plug into.

I would also suggest that you might be better cutting-and-pasting this into a new thread in the General Yeti section as you will get more answers there.

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  • 1 year later...

A special thanks to Les ROBSON at http://www.silburyskoda.co.uk/ and http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/82637-yetiscot/

"yetiscot" for hook'n a brother up and Les for delivering as promised.

I had been a bit worried about the situation. The Yeti is only new as of 16 January after ordering it on 20 September. My wife and kid are in Japan and aren't expecting the Yeti until mid February. They arrive home on Saturday and I have been trying to get the Yeti ready before they arrive. I got the widows tinted and then fitted the tow bar. When I got the panels off the back and then found I had the wrong kit, I was worried that I wouldn't get the right kit before they get home but all has gone well.

We dont have 13 pin plug here in Australia so I have to order a plug from ebay and make my own adaptor cable before I can test it but at least it's all back together. For some silly reason our trailer plugs are different from the rest of the world.

I have been told our Yeti not only have "Tow Prep" as standard but they are already coded as well. I'll keep you posted. I have a workshop nearby that can do the coding if I need.

Happy Days.

Brilliant work Joel, You gave me the confidence to 'give it a go'.

My Towbar fitting description here. (not as nice as yours but not as rough as the NZ version)

I made a newb mistake and ordered a factory reversing sensor enabled wiring loom to find it was a universal on arrival. Now trying to source the Trailer Controller Unit version for my Aussie Yeti.

Pictorial Album with comments here.

Edited by michaelp
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When installing a tow bar on a Volvo V50, I used a tow bar wire kit from ECS Electronics. Did not need any reprogramming to work with PDC and fog light.
They seem to have both 7-pin and 13-pin kits for Yeti.
Installation instructions can be downloaded from their website.

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Excellent post Joel. Your work gave me the confidence to fit a www.towbarsaustraila.com.au removable import from Poland, total cost delivered $600.

Some things to know about this unit;

I ordered my kit to be compatible with the factory reversing sensors assuming this meant trailer control unit to plug into the pre-wired socket. The wiring loom that arrived was a universal diode blocked 7 pin loom. This according to the instructions does not require coding but does require cutting into existing wiring. I am now attempting to source the proper controller unit and loom to get the whole package as I will be towing a caravan close to rated limits.

 

The towbar mount protrudes below the bumper and the removable cover cannot be replaced when the tow hitch is removed.

 

I have put together some images fro the installation of the towbar to compliment Joel's work on wiring installation.

Public document here 

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