I've got a Felicia on 107,000 miles and I would assume the rear drums have never been replaced.

Last MOT had an advisory on the rear wheel bearings.

I'm going to replace the rear shoes and I assume its possible when I put the drums back on and tighten up the hub nut the play in the wheel bearings might be taken up.

But if the bearings do need replacing I assume its probably worth fitting them in new drums rather than in ones probably near (or at) the end of their service life?

On the other hand if the drums need replacing I guess new bearings will also be required?

Wheel bearings advisory

You 'assume' that has something to do with hub nut not being tighten up properly. Not sure what is your assumption based on (unless an amateur did the brakes last time) but wheel bearings are shot from normal wear or got shot from nut hub being loose. Either way, change them. Forget about 'taking up the play'. It's too cheap job for not doing it right.

Brake drum replacement

Unless inner diameter is bigger than 201 mm or its surface is badly scorched, dented, oval, cracked, developed an outer 'lip' or is heavily corroded, you don't need to change it. But brake drums are usually very tough. Change the shoes, yes.

Brake drums state is not related to wheel bearings state unless your wheel wobbled hundreds of miles. But that would be an MOT fail, not an advisory.

What I would say is take the drums off and have a look before you shell out loads of money on parts, there's probably nothing wrong with the shoes, they barely do anything, felicia has quite a heavy front bias on the brakes.

I bought 2 wheel bearing kits from Havant motor factors about a week ago and they were less than £9 each so they aren't expensive.

AL

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WSTT

Sent from my cheap plastic Galaxy S3 using my left hand.

Edited 6 February, 201313 yr by adurer

Wheel bearings advisory

You 'assume' that has something to do with hub nut not being tighten up properly. Not sure what is your assumption based on (unless an amateur did the brakes last time) but wheel bearings are shot from normal wear or got shot from nut hub being loose. Either way, change them. Forget about 'taking up the play'. It's too cheap job for not doing it right.

Brake drum replacement

Unless inner diameter is bigger than 201 mm or its surface is badly scorched, dented, oval, cracked, developed an outer 'lip' or is heavily corroded, you don't need to change it. But brake drums are usually very tough. Change the shoes, yes.

Brake drums state is not related to wheel bearings state unless your wheel wobbled hundreds of miles. But that would be an MOT fail, not an advisory.

I'm pretty sure that a small amount of play in the bearings is just due to wear and nothing to do with the quality of previous work. I already have the bearings "in stock" and probably will replace them, although I am getting short on time before the date of the MOT test.

I've never suggested that the bearings have damaged the wheel drums in any way, just musing that in an ideal world you wouldn't bother replacing wheel bearings in drums that might need replacing soon.

You guys seem quite relaxed about drums being OK after (probably) 107,000 miles however, so I will just see what they look like once they are off.

A small amount of play in a wheel bearing is acceptable, age or mileage alone isn't an indication of a bearing being worn out, drums will probably be fine tbh, I've put new bearings into 100k+ drums before... The important thing with the bearing is fitting the new races into the drum this can be a bit tricky on old drums.

When you do them, make sure you're spot on with the adjustment, it's easy to wreck them if you don't pay attention to it, and check them after you've done a few miles on them as well. There's a thread on here somewhere with Jim's excellent advice, i think, but it was ages ago....

WSTT

Sent from my cheap plastic Galaxy S3 using my left hand.

My Galaxy S2 cost more than my Felicia

A small amount of play in a wheel bearing is acceptable, age or mileage alone isn't an indication of a bearing being worn out, drums will probably be fine tbh, I've put new bearings into 100k+ drums before... The important thing with the bearing is fitting the new races into the drum this can be a bit tricky on old drums.

Why particularly on old drums?

My Galaxy S2 cost more than my Felicia

It shouldn't. If you drop the phone on asphalt a few times, it's game over. Felicia is going strong after 15 years.

Did I ever mention how much I hate plastic on phones and on any place in cars? I do.

Why particularly on old drums?

Harder to get races out, harder to get them in.

If you decide to change them, I have a set of nice photos about the process.

Edited 8 February, 201313 yr by adurer

It shouldn't. If you drop the phone on asphalt a few times, it's game over. Felicia is going strong after 15 years.

Did I ever mention how much I hate plastic on phones and on any place in cars? I do.

It was supposed to be merely a funny comment...but...

the Galaxy S2 is probably more durable than you think, the big gorilla glass provides quite a lot of structure and is really tough. I've dropped mine a couple of times and its still fine. I'm pleasantly surprised as I've broken phones before and owned a "rugged" Nokia 3720 previously and really didn't think a smart phone would survive long in my ownership.

I think that similar phones with more metal (and therefore weight) are maybe less robust because they hit the ground harder. (Its an opinion I don't really want to go into the physics of it)

But back to wheel bearings I would much appreciate the photos...are they already on here somewhere?

But back to wheel bearings I would much appreciate the photos...are they already on here somewhere?

Here you go: see my album with 28 photos at http://s1057.beta.photobucket.com/user/adurer/library/rear_bearings

Feel free to ask any question about this operation, tools and parts.

Harder to get races out, harder to get them in.

If you decide to change them, I have a set of nice photos about the process.

yes thats right, when the drums are a bit grotty in can be quite difficult to get the bearing races in and out without damaging them, it is also a job that shouldnt be attempted without a proper bearing race driver tool for the job, you need a 40mm one for the outer bearing race, and a 60mm one for the inner race

Cheers all, i'm so much into felicias and just adore these little cars. I have two nice ones (97 (160K miles) and the new look 99 (115K miles)) and both still run on the original drums and bearings with ABSOLUTELY No problems what so ever on both cars. I am always checking these parts including brake pistons, sealings, brake hoses and also check the main nut tightness because it is of high importance for the bearings service time (I guess not too tight but enough to slightly move the washer behind the main nut when pushing with little force).

Thanks Adurer for the pics too and your valuable contributions for this wonderful forum. Also Tom too your input and advice are much apreciated.

i guess that in amman the climate is fairly similar to the united kingdom? do your cars over there rust out like they do here?

Well not anyway like the UK, it is not as rainy as at your country and we rarely have temperatures below zero. Also winter is short and summer is very dry and this means rust is not an issue over here. My older 97 felicia only developed serious rust in the inner wing just underneath the windshield washer bottle because it is always damp there and lots of mud develop. Very little rust blisters on both rear wheel arches just infront of the rear bumper tip. The other 99 felicia does not have rust what so ever. Honestly, i am sad about the rust you pictured for your car (the 1.8T project) but i am sure you'll manage the rear wheel arches and pass the MOT test.

Another thing and only for fun, in our country any car will pass the MOT test because here in 99% of the times they only move to the rear end of the car and ask you to apply the brakes to make sure rear brake lights are ok and visualy inspect any blueish or greyish smoke down the exhaust pipe when revving the engine for like 3 seconds not more.

How much do you pay for 1 liter of gasoline? 95, 100 and diesel.

Another thing and only for fun, in our country any car will pass the MOT test because here in 99% of the times they only move to the rear end of the car and ask you to apply the brakes to make sure rear brake lights are ok and visualy inspect any blueish or greyish smoke down the exhaust pipe when revving the engine for like 3 seconds not more.

In here they do that test to let us dump the car in a scrapyard

The fuel prices have risen significantly during the last three years and the government stopped the support of the fuel pricies.

We have gasoline 90 for (0.75) euro per litre and gasoline 95 for (0.93) euro per litre while diesel sells for (0.66) euro per litre.

My brother works in Saudia and fuel prices are insanely cheapest in the world. You can fill up an empty felicia fuel tank for (5.75) euros only !!!!

ah ok, you cant buy 90 ron fuel in the uk, we only have 95 unleaded and 98 super unleaded, going by your 0.93 euros per litre thats just a little bit over half the price what we pay per litre here, and diesel is more expensive than that.

i guess it just comes down to supply and demand, although here the fuel price has a hefty tax added to it

Here you go: see my album with 28 photos at http://s1057.beta.ph...y/rear_bearings

Feel free to ask any question about this operation, tools and parts.

Thanks for the photos. I had the drums off today (outside in the rain) and I think the bearings are still sound. So in the end just replaced the shoes as they were pretty far gone. I guess the general clean-up will have helped things as well brake pedal and handbrake more positive now.

Pedal still a bit mushy so I think I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow, in fact replace the fluid. As far as I can see the o/s rear nipple is snapped away so will have to follow Teflon Tom's advice on another thread and bleed using the pipe union.

I know a new wheel cylinder is pretty cheap but I need to get the job done tomorrow.

Yeh be careful though, if the brake pipe is rotten it will probably break when you try to undo it.... I don't remember saying it but yes you are right, you don't have to bleed the brakes using the bleed nipple, use a union near the wheel cylinder and you will be fine.

Anyone know the dimensions for the rear stub axle o-ring? I think its 44mm id but what cross section width?

Anyone know the dimensions for the rear stub axle o-ring? I think its 44mm id but what cross section width?

Round seal code: 6U0 501 151

Dimensions: 44X36 mm (outerxinner diameter) in other words it has a 4 mm cross section.