Well i was moving an other car, and had to swap the battery, so once i was done i put the battery back in the skoda i put it in back to front and attached the wrong terminals, when it did it, it sparked and a sound like electric motor was turning, once i realised what i did i turned the battery around, the car started but the battery light stayed on, i test it with a voltage meter with the engine running and it was 11.48 volts, so something was wrong, i moved it out the drive and turned it off, i went to start the car again, turned the ignition on, battery light as normal, started the car and the battery light stayed on, turned it off and left it for 10 minutes, then once i had to use the car it wouldn't start, so i had to bump start it, so dirving for 5 minutes all electrics dull or not much power, so few minutes more the abs light came on and car was being a pig, i think i've damaged the electrics but no idea what exactly, if it's as simple as a few fuses

Someone may have did the same mistake as me and might be able to help

Check alternator fuse. If its ok then youve likely fried the diodes.

I'd say you prob killed the plates in the battery, but as above check that the alternator isn't fried first.

VAGCOM/VCDS scan time too

Have a vague memory of reading the vehicle has no reverse polarity protection

VAGCOM/VCDS scan time too

Have a vague memory of reading the vehicle has no reverse polarity protection

That true for all models or just the mk1?

The cited examples was a VW Golf (mk.4), but the aimed at all modern cars with multiple ECU's & electronics in general

The article was one of those motoring sections in a sunday paper (telegraph or times motoring section)

the laptop i had with vcds went nackered on me, and it cant get vcds to work on windows 7, so no way of scanning it at present, can't believe i did it

have you tried charging the battery, as 11 omething is too low, once charged can you check the voltage again for us!

We have a member on the A8 forum, did the same thing to A8 with simillar things going on. Hopefully you have just fried the alternator or blown its fuse, otherwise its going to get expensive.

i hope it is just the alternator as everything else was working like windows cruise control, just very dull, as there was hardly any power left in it, i know that, my own stupid fault, can't check the car right now as it's parked up at a mates, so gona need to be when i get it home, the diodes, that the black plastic casing on the back of the alternator, i would think so, but would i be able to change that or a full alternator swap ?

at 11... you wont have enough charge to do much at all

can you get to the casing on the car?

on the back of the alternator ? then yes i can get to it, otherwise what casing ?

Setting VCDS up on W7/Vista

Might help

Setting VCDS up on W7/Vista

Might help

Thanks mate forgot about that

well i got the car started and managed to get it home, started the car and put the voltage meter on it, 10.48 volts and dropping, did a 2 mile trip, engine was still running airbag light abs light, battery light was all on, on the dash, i aint even able to put vcds onto it, went and priced an alternator and was shocked £130+ vat and surcharged £50 for exchange unit.so £206

you need to geta decent battery or at least a fully charge battery onto it to start with, then you can check what and if is working/not working

ohh dear

Working on getting a loan of a battery charger, but i can also get a secondhand alternator for £25, think i'll get the alternator, charge the battery check it's running ok before i swap the alternators over

good plan, do battery before anything else!

It's not the most difficult thing in the world changing the diodes and regulator on most types of alternators, but it is time consuming. I must admit, I haven't even looked at mine properly to see what type it is, despite spending several years of my life overhauling alts, starters, motors, magnetos, fuel pumps etc.

Guess I'm getting lazy.

Well tbh, i've got a basic knowledge of electrics, anyways got 2 battery chargers, and charging all the batteries that i have atm, before this happened i had a energy drain somewhere and suspected the alternator, so maybe it was a good thing that this happened, anways dunno if this matters but when i was testing the voltage when i got the car started, the bettery itself was 10.~ volts so i checked the little box on the top, from right to left across the wires the voltage from the alternator was 2.28, volts, the all the other wires to the left all registered 10~ volts

Oh dear. It's alternator overhaul time, by the sounds of it.

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.LBL

Controller: 038 906 012 H

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 3315

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 155D42577C99

TMBCG41U012470987 SKZ7Z0Y0711093

1 Fault Found:

17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF: Implausible Signal

P1503 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: N/A

So gona check it on rosstech

Possible Causes

• Alternator faulty
  
• Voltage Regulator faulty
  
• Wiring and/or connections faulty
  

Well i know the wiring is alright as i checked it all, but the voltage regulator, would that be the diodes, the black casing on the back of the alternator ?

From Ross-Tech's Wiki:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17911/P1503

From Ross-Tech's Wiki:

http://wiki.ross-tec...php/17911/P1503

Yeah thanks mate, was editing when you posted

Well, I'am going to get a second hand alternator shortly, so i'am hopeful after this, the problem should be resolved.

Good luck with fault finding. Many years ago I managed to melt a large chunk of metal out of a spanner which I inadvertently bridged a battery with. All 3 of us survived that hairy moment!