As above, changing the o/s/r hub over the weekend hopefully to cure an ongoing prob with ABS/ESP/TPM warning lights.

Can anyone advise the official torque settings for a rear hub nut?

Thanks,

Peter

180 nm and 180 ° further according to this website.

http://skoda.workshop-manuals.com/octavia-mk2/index.php?id=250

Cheers FriendlyFire, sounds painful though!

Very painful and you probably need help to get the 180 degree turn after torquing it to 180nm

Might end up tying the breaker bar to my works van in that case!!

I'm coming into this thread 7 years late 😁... just watching an Autodoc video for hub replacement on Octavia 1Z5 and they recommend just tighten to 143nm....and that's it! no loading no backing off..and of course being instructional it's all very slick and clean

Hello

I want to change the rear bearing on my octavia 2 1z5 vrs estate. Is the 143 NM right? May I apply this torque or do I need to set it more? Thanks for helping

On 25/11/2020 at 12:41, PompeyMatt17 said:

I'm coming into this thread 7 years late 😁... just watching an Autodoc video for hub replacement on Octavia 1Z5 and they recommend just tighten to 143nm....and that's it! no loading no backing off..and of course being instructional it's all very slick and clean

I thought that too as I'm doing the rear hub on my wifes Octy, but after a bit more reading, I found their video to be a bit wrong.  They also say it's an M16 spline to remove the rear hub, when it's actually an M18.  It is unfortunately, 180Nm, + 180 degreees.

Don't even bother trying with a 1/2 breaker bar, get a 3/4. The initial torque should be done wheel off the ground, then lower the car to do the 180° (will help to apply handbrake). 3/4 is useful for the fronts also 200nm +180°

Tightening torques:

Wheel hub with wheel bearing to wheel-bearing housing t  Use new screw!	180 Nm + 180°
Bottom suspension arm to wheel-bearing housing t  Use new screws and nuts! t  Tighten in unladen weight position! → Chapter	90 Nm + 90°
Phillips head screw for front brake disc	4 Nm
Cover plate to wheel-bearing housing	12 Nm
Wheel bolts	120 Nm

On 21/08/2021 at 18:48, Black vRS Oct said:

Don't even bother trying with a 1/2 breaker bar, get a 3/4. The initial torque should be done wheel off the ground, then lower the car to do the 180° (will help to apply handbrake). 3/4 is useful for the fronts also 200nm +180°

Have you ever done brakes change on fronts with axle stands on? Does the extra 180° have to be done on the stands. 

200Nm + 180° is just brutal.

 

@StoreyR

 

The bolts are torque to yield/one time use.

 

Only special mechanics adhere to this, you can reuse and torque to 200Nm and it's not going to come undone.

Use a new bolt, 3/4 bar and impact socket. It doesn't seem too bad using the proper kit and will ease around to the 180° if you're nice and smooth. It does seem a lot on paper, but I put my trust in the engineers. I personally wouldn't reuse a drive shaft bolt or do it to just xxx as it's essentially what's holding your wheel on.

On 06/04/2023 at 21:51, StoreyR said:

Have you ever done brakes change on fronts with axle stands on? Does the extra 180° have to be done on the stands. 

200Nm + 180° is just brutal.

 

Don't need to touch the drive shaft bolt for the front brakes? But the 200nm should be done off the ground, further 180° on the ground. Use new bolt, or risk it snapping as they are one time use 'stretch bolts'