Halp!

Not sure what I'm missing here.

I pulled out the LCR pump and installed the Walbro into the housing

The foam sleeve I have isn't quite thick enough so the pump still moves a little.

I took the bottom filter off the housing and cut off the little sticking-up pipe that the stock pump drinks from so the Walbro would sit as low as possible.

I wired up the pump - connected black to the black wire, red to the yellow one which I assume is correct!

Had to go get more fuel pipe as the supplied piece was just too short and kinked when installed.

The pump primes on opening the door and I can hear it running when I turn the key.

The housing fills with fuel when I drop it into the tank, and the tank is pretty full.

But the engine doesn't fire. And when I took the fuel pipes off again at the pump they had no fuel in them. So it seems like no fuel is being pumped.

Do I need to manually clear the air out of the pipes to the engine?

Shouldn't need to clear any air out of the lines. Just wondering if the pump is running backwards, maybe got the wires switched?

I guess it can't hurt to swap them.

It would be the most logical guess. You can hear the pump going, doesn't mean its going the right way though.

The other proble you have because its not tall enough it won't sit on the bottom of the swirl pot

This is going to cause fuel starvation when cornering or low tank levels !!!

The only walbro that fits is the one I put in Bowders car

Yep it was the power wires the wrong way around

So yellow is negative, black positive.

It runs now it's not trying to suck fuel out of the engine

yes was gonna say they run both ways, had the same issue when i fitted the bike pump to my mk2 to match the carbs.

glad you sorted it!

Cheers all

If only it had fixed the issue I bought it to fix!!

Glad you got it fixed Rob.

These Walbro's need to be tight in the swirl pot so they sit upright.

I had Clive's one which is P/N WALBRO GSS 340 which has the fuel input dead center at the bottom and allows the pump to sit low.

Had no starvation issues yet and ran tank almost empty...

I also put some sound proofing on top of pump cover and under carpet to reduce the pump noise

Can only here it slightly now when no radio on.

Yep mine is a GSS340. I need a thicker sleeve to make it 100% right. Thought I'd ordered the thick one but apparently not.

It does push right down into the bottom and kinda clicks in so it's not going anywhere.

I haven't noticed the pump noise at all. My exhaust must be too loud

I took the bottom filter off the housing and cut off the little sticking-up pipe that the stock pump drinks from so the Walbro would sit as low as possible.

This bit is critical - this is how the GSS340 fits in once the gauze screen is removed

However, the new pickup level is still approx 10mm higher than OE

The peg can be cut off and gauze screen refitted - gives more protection than the gauze fitted to the walbro

Use this sleeve: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280756578449;jsessionid=5A9E7E966E93AEFE385713AD70605895?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D280756578449%26_rdc%3D1

I had to use some grease to make it slide in, it was impossible to push it in without it.

Stock fuel pump has 3 inlets, two at the bottom (main and secondary inlet which are divided by O ring) and third on the side. Second and third inlet suck fuel from the swirl pot and only the main inlet suck fuel directly from the fuel tank.

If you lower the walbro pump all the way down as in picture above it will starve the engine while cornering when fuel level is less then 1/4.

Yep that's the sleeve I ordered. It's too small by about 5mm. Maybe they sent the wrong one.

Rob; That black fuel hose that you have used to connect outlet of the pump to the housing will in time disintegrate and bend, first you will notice slight misfire at top revs and in time it will completely collapse blocking fuel reaching the engine, this is first hand info

Edited 26 June, 201313 yr by Gonzaga

You should have used OEM orange one

You should have used OEM orange one

Ended up cutting it to get it off. So yes I do need to replace it. I wonder if you can buy the part from the dealer.

...

If you lower the walbro pump all the way down as in picture above it will starve the engine ...

If you sit it higher, you'll never be able to use the last 1/4 of your tank

The swirl pot will only work as a swirl pot with an OE pump, doesn't matter how you fit a walbro, swirlpot functionality will be negated

tbh

best solution is to ditch the plastic pot section and mount the pump direct to the plastic leg, with a hose coming of the bottom of the pump to bottom of the tank with a filter on that.

You will need a mounting bracket for this

Never had any starvation issues

If you sit it higher, you'll never be able to use the last 1/4 of your tank

The swirl pot will only work as a swirl pot with an OE pump, doesn't matter how you fit a walbro, swirlpot functionality will be negated

Not true, I have used very thick sleeve that prevents the pump moving inside the housing, in fact it is so thick I had to use grease to get it in and then it was pita to get to sit right. The pump outlet is raised 2 mm over the housing inlet so it can suck fuel from the side/swirl pot.

Edited 26 June, 201313 yr by Gonzaga

I've been thinking about doing the Walbro pump to mine, as I'm suffering misfire issues and as mines never been changed its something that I can upgrade and rule out at the same time.

So if your able to write up a guide, fantastic, or if you worked from one yourself even better, or maybe it's just simple, to be honest the only guides I've seen have been about mounting one inline which ideally isn't what I was looking to do.

Ta.

If only it had fixed the issue I bought it to fix!!

Ohhh bugger. Feel for you pal, you must be gutted :( I guess you try swapping the Turbo back next? Gutted for you mate.

I found this:

 

http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/kits.html

 

They sell various accessories for fitting the Walbro pumps.

Great service from the above place, quick delivery from the US.

 

I pulled the pump out and re-fitted it with proper bits, so I took more photos.

 

I bought one of each of the sleeves from the above link, and two of the 8" flexi pipes. One to fit the Walbro, one if I ever need to go back to stock.

 

 

I used the thickest sleeve, which is solid rubber rather than foam like the thinner ones.

 

Unscrew the back section, the usual Torx, T20 I think.

 

Carefully lever the clips so you can get the swirl pot off:

 

 

Unclip the filter and cut off the sticky-up bit, as mentioned above

 

Pump with sleeve attached. I had to apply a tiny bit of lube to get it in

 

 

Pump fully inserted:

 

Back in one piece. A couple of seconds with the heat gun made the pipes flexible enough to slip on easily.

 

Nice write up Rob.

 

Had a nightmare with mine last few weeks.

 

Just come back from holiday in South Devon(great weather)

 

Car has been running lumpy and a few miss fires and no oomph....

 

Little History building up to this.

 

- Did the Injectors wire tuck(extended injectors wires)

- Had to unplug lot's of sensors including Throttle position sensor

- Same day let petrol get really low (near on fumes ) with the Walbro pump installed.

- filled up at nearest station (only had BP ultimate 97 ron) 20 litres

- set off and car started getting temperamental, stopped in train station few miles down road and lot's crud coming out of exhaust

- first though was "Christ put diesel in" thankfully not....

- drove back home and car died, left it to go get help

- Came back 30 min later and car started up normally

 

Anyway as car was running again and no apparent issues set off to Devon. Then over the week car started getting lumpy and a few miss fires. 

 

Manged to get home end of week and pulled out pump thinking may be blockage or something possibly down to a lag of fuel priming?

 

Did not take pictures yet (will post later) but the rubber sock had perished and the pump was swinging about all over the place.

 

Anyone with a Walbro should checked the tightness of pump in housing just in case their's has perished.

 

So for now fitted old std pump back which did slightly improve things, but i still have hesitancy now???

 

Based on the history above, thinking the following

 

1. Throttle body reset (anyone with full vagcom in Portsmouth??).

2. Clean injectors (as crud might be restricting them??) (have a second set to fit if needed)

3. Check spark plugs, maybe coated with crud also.

4. Could it be extending Injector wires (but did a proper solder job on these, so doubtful)

5. Unassociated issues with MAF starting to go 

 

what are people thoughts

 

oh to top that off brake binding has come back.....  so fixing caliper springs and greasing cables did not work (fitting new cables and caliper this week)

Sorry to hear of all your problems buddy

Cant help with fuel probs as you seem to have loads more experience in that area.

All I will add tho, is many many years ago I had a TR6 which was PI (Lucas mechanical metering unit) and without fail in weather like this if I went round a corner fast it would misfire like crazy, id boot it on the straight then it would suddenly clear. I could always smell a slight petrol smell so guess air was also getting in somewhere, your metering unit (if we have one?) / fuel lines to the injectors ok?.

At least you had a good holiday.

Hope you get it sorted.

Good Luck

First what you should do is to put a new fuel filter.