Good tip  :clap:

Don't avoid or automatically dismiss top restautants in your search for lunch.  Many are responding to the continuing recession with menus in the €20's.  Same quality, same skill, just affordable.  The old bete noir with *** establishments, high drinks prices, can be often avoided by having a beer or single glass. Usually excellent, and always better than a cheap carafe.

Thanks Nick.

 

13 months in the planning, Dordogne Day is finally here.

And it's time to answer that age old question:

"Will it all fit?"

Answer later.

 

Yep - that's the view from the Capeyrou poolside OK!  Also when you first wake up and stick your nose outwith the tent! The view back down from the top of the castle is even more impressive. You've picked a fantastic time to be there.  A little nostalgia / envy creeping in, as we're not going there this year, for various reasons back home. First time in four years we shall have missed.... 

 

We've always used the Carrefour in St. Cyprien that Nom' mentions, for our supplies. Not huge, but has all we've needed. Just a comfortable shopping trip drive towards Bergerac. Plus some excellent Compte cheese from the little shop across the road from Capeyrou.   

 

As for eateries. One to avoid, perhaps, might be the place set back from the road opposite Capeyrou, sort of behind the little shop mentioned down a short drive. Not rubbish. Just.....Tres ordinaire? 

 

As a first night treat to ourselves after the long road trip, we've made a tradition of eating at the 'Hotel - Restaurant du Chateau' in Beynac. Not as expensive as it sounds by any means! Out of Capeyrou and turn left over the little footbridge (it's easy walking distance!). Stay by the river, avoiding the path up to the Castle, and you come to it just by the turn where the side road leads off North up toward the village. Opposite La Poste and card shop, etc. If you sit outside by the river, a) you have a great view while you eat, you get a fantastic chance to watch the pure artistry of the waiter as he brings trays loaded with plates of food across the road to the riverside tables, dodging the passing cars as he goes, pirouettes around the odd one who doesn't give him room, etc. Tray held high on one hand as only French waiters can? Never seen a disaster with the food yet. But the skilled negotiation of the cars is a joy to watch! Only in France would "Elf and Safe T" not have stopped this? Assuming he's still there of course, and hasn't been nudged into the river by a truck?

 

In Domme, our favourite is the little restaurant right by the East gate tower (the one where the Templars were imprisoned for a spell). Can't remember the name just now, but it is something suitably Templar appropriate like "Knights" or similar. Doesn't look much from the outside, but is totally unpretentious and the food is excellent value and excellent qualite. Run by a couple with a young family. Nomdeplume will probably know the place I mean?

 

P.S. If you've never been to Domme - do!  But allow plenty of time for a walk round the whole village on the scenic route.  Well worthwhile.

 

Totally agree with Nomdeplume about avoiding Sarlat, unless you like traffic and crowds by the coachload?

 

The caves at Lascaux are not far. If you like your antiquities properly ancient, not just something a few hundred years old!  As is Roc St Christophe...... Ah! the list could go on.    

 

Canoeing back to Capeyrou from a few km up river is a highly recommended too! Not quite as spectacular as the Tarn Gorge but nearly, and the Tarn is several hours further East on t'other side of Millau. There's a super little campsite over that way too - near Meyrueis.

 

Enjoy your stay - you will!  And the free wifi in the Capeyrou bar too!

 

F

Edited 19 July, 201312 yr by FlintstoneR1

Yes, the place Flintstone refers to in Domme is called Pizzeria des Templiers and is really a pizza and pasta family place. We ate there once, it was ok but not particularly what I want to eat in France!

Btw, the little shop over the road from the campsite is very expensive, even if their cheese is good!

If, as Flintstone suggests, you visit Domme, on Thursday mornings there is a quite interesting market. But beware, it will be heaving.

Pizza largest selling meal in France by quantity, what happened to french cuisine then? Chefs must all be doing their thing in other countries??

In the same way Balti or MacDoh represents English food? 

When soviet weaponry was critisised for being crude, Stalin replied, "Sometimes quantity has a quality all of its own" but not a quality I could appreciate when applied to food.

Pizza can be excellent.  But it can often repesent the low skill, low investment end of the market.  You can buy/lease an automated machine for every part of the process.  You can buy premade dough, prepared toppings and stuff called cheese analogue.  You can make a great return on your investment.  You are unlikely to turn out great food.

I do remember pizza vans turning up on campsites.  Real wood fired oven, real dough and proper toppings.  Went well with the sort of wine I could afford back then.

Ah well, back home, and back to reality. Thanks nom, and everyone else for the tips.

 

What a fabulous time we had, with temps peaking at 38C one day, and only 2 rainy nights. But boy did we slip up booking a sunny pitch.

 

F.....lipping 'eck. Pitching and striking camp in those temperatures!! My head was like a garden sprinkler.

 

Now sorting through 600+ pics. Here's a few:

 

 

Au'voir La Dordogne. Roll on 2014.

Some lovely photos there Michael G, oddly Swindon looks decidedly dull from the office.