Changing the Bosch rear discs and pads; Yeti 4x4 from WK45/09

[The Plumber]

1. Stating the obvious; jack and place on axle stands and chock front wheels (or use a workshop lift), then remove rear wheels.

 

2. Would recommend from experience slightly loosening the disc retaining screws (Torx T30) before releasing the handbrake, as they can 'rust' into position (may need a tap with an impact driver to free off). Once freed off release handbrake and ensure out of gear.

 

3. Remove calliper from carrier: 13mm ring spanner or socket required.

 

 

4. Slide out pads from spring clips and then remove the spring clips from the carrier (they just pull off).

 

 

5. Remove carrier from the cast wheel bearing housing; need a M14 12 spline drive (1/2"), a long torque wrench/ratchet handle, long extension and universal joint.

 

 

 

 

6. Fully remove disc retaining screw and remove disc; may need tapping off with a nylon hammer

 

 

 

7. In my case there was noticeable surface corrosion around the bearing and disc/wheel mounting flange (see above); remove loose rust and clean up the edge of the mounting flange with emery paper if necessary, in preparation for fitting the new disc. Also clean any old grease from around the central spigot.

 

8. Once cleaned I applied a light coating of 'copper slip' to the outer edge of the flange and around the spigot, where the new disc would make contact with the flange.

 

9. Refit Disc and retaining screw; torque setting for the screw is only 4Nm, so hand tight without getting carried away.

 

10. Refit carrier; bolts should according to the service instructions be replaced, however you can refit the originals if there is no obvious damage/stretching. The torque setting is 90Nm + 90 degrees (only managed to get about 45 deg myself).

 

 

11. Fit the new spring clips supplied with the new pads and slide in the pads; apply a grease such as Mintex Cera TEC to the metal end posts of the pads before sliding them in place, reduces brake noise.

 

12. Wind back the calliper piston using a wind back tool (advisable to loosen off the brake reservoir cap first but don't forget to refit after). Apply a coating of Mintex Cera TEC to the piston plate and inner face of the calliper outer pad retaining 'fingers', again to reduce noise.

 

 

Note: Obviously very important to avoid getting any grease on the disc faces or the friction part of the brake pads.

 

13. Refit calliper and fit new retaining bolts supplied with the brake pads; torque is 35Nm.

 

 

14. Ensure disc moves freely between pads and refit wheels, lower to ground and finally torque the wheel bolts to 120Nm.

 

15. Ensure brake reservoir cap is back on and tight, then pump brake pedal until it resists further movement, also check handbrake operation.

 

Note; Step 15 is a very important safety point before going back on the road.

 

16. Road test; avoid getting brakes to hot while bedding in.

 

 

TP

[Brijo]

Better than Haynes!

[Great Yeti]

Superb guide as always! Perfect for a novice or professional!       :clap:

 

Briskoda Gold Medal     

[Billcbf1000]

Fantastic. Thanks.

Any advice or guides on how to free off seized sliders?

[The Plumber]

Fantastic. Thanks.

Any advice or guides on how to free off seized sliders?

 

Yes to come, awaiting spares on back order from Rainworth Skoda hopefully this coming week.

 

 

TP

[muddyboots]

Many thanks for this thread - glad I read it, as I didn't realise I needed the M14 spline tool.

Was planning to do the change this weekend, after reading this I've ordered myself the relevant spline bit, so you've saved me wasting my time

[muddyboots]

Grrr, turns out the spline bit I got was too long, and I couldn't attach anything to it because one of the suspension arms was in the way. They're a pain to get at, driveshafts, arms and spring in the way.

 

I did find out the cause of the grinding noise though, the inner pad was right down to metal, while the outer (more visible) pad wasn't even half worn. Although the sliders seem to slide nice and freely.

 

I then found that the pads I'd bought were the wrong ones, so had to try and find a set on a Sunday...

At least I've got some friction material in contact with the rusty disc now, so I did achieve something.

 

Need to buy a shorter spline bit, so I can get the carriers off and change the somewhat corroded discs, and then fit some decent pads now I know which ones to get.

 

I presume the carriers do actually need to come off to change the disc ? On some previous cars, there's been just enough room to get the disc out of the carrier at an angle.

Edited 22 February, 2015 by muddyboots

[Deputy]

Hi

 

I appreciate it's an older thread but I was going to do this soon and a few guys at work mentioned releasing the brake bleed valve to avoid pushing dirty brake fluid back up the system into the ABS unit - does anyone have any thoughts on this?

[Urrell]

Yes that makes sense and was the way I did it last year to my Fabia, also saves having to watch you're not overflowing the fluid reservoir and you can flush some fluid thru to do a change of that too.

[EvoT]

A great set of pictures and guide 2 gold medal stars!! That wind back tool reminds me of front discs on my Saab years ago a real pain of a job. Did you hire the tool or buy it ? some info on this would be great. Is there any form of electrical connection on the disc pads or the hub for the ABS etc that needs to be disconected and connected? I may be wrong about this so if I am please educate me ! Last question what length is the M14 12 spline drive socket ??

[DavidMark]

No joy for me, I jacked car up as far as possible, then placed on axle stands.

Even with a two foot breaker bar they would not budge at all.

Rather annoyed because Skoda say the disc rotors are a consumable item, that's all well and good if a consumer could get the b***** things off easily.

The discs are not worn they are just badly corroded.

 

Going to go to a local garage I think.

Your really need the car up on garage lifts to get a good long bar on the bolt heads.

With only 12K miles on the clock I do not expect to doing this.

Skoda says its because I don't drive often enough, and light brake use they say, doesn't help either.

 

So there it is drive fast and long and brake very hard.

 

I have a van with 100K on the clock its ten years old and the brakes are fine, yes I drive it often.

However I have a little used 500cc bike, it is 17 years old with 17K on the clock..............brakes perfect, explain that to me Skoda!

Skoda are blaming drivers for their shoddy materials, its as simple as that.

[Tech1e]

Worth noting on some disc sizes you don't need to take the carrier off to change the disc. It will tilt and slide out.

[bargee1759]

I replaced my discs & pads all round with Brembo Max,they've now done the same mileage as the original (crap) Skoda items & they still look absolutely perfect. Funny that, I must have had a brain transplant at the same time so that I now successfully drive madly enough to keep the brakes as good as new! It's got to be that because I'm still doing the 18k a year miles & I think that's probably classed as far enough.

[Guy Incognito]

Hi, like many we need to change the Yeti discs.  Car is coming up 4 years old and has only done 32k I think so not impressed with the longevity.  I have never see the like of the rears particularly.

 

My question is would the FWD be the same?  As in needing the spline fitting?  Not sure what that actually is tbh and I don't own a torque wrench.  Is it gong to be worth me buying both and doing a home job?  I suspect fronts and backs will need to be done for the MOT, discs and pads.  Cheers

[Llanigraham]

If you don't know what the tools are, don't own them and are questioning whether it is a "home job" leads me down the "let the professionals do the job" road.

[Guy Incognito]

Last time I changed discs and pads I did not use a torque wrench and I don't think M14 12 spline drive's existed.  My question was whether those parts were needed for a 2WD model.

[Urrell]

The front disks are relatively easy but you will need a specialised tool to wind back the rear pistons.

[Guy Incognito]

21 minutes ago, Urrell said:

The front disks are relatively easy but you will need a specialised tool to wind back the rear pistons.

 Cheers, I have a winding kit, I just have never used a torque wrench for this in the past so wondered if I would need one or if it wasn't even worth the hassle.

[Urrell]

It may be OCD but I do torque the wheel bolts when changing wheels around.

[SuperbTWM]

3 hours ago, Guy Incognito said:

 Cheers, I have a winding kit, I just have never used a torque wrench for this in the past so wondered if I would need one or if it wasn't even worth the hassle.

 

There is pretty much a torque setting for even nut and bolt on the car so it depends on experience and confidence as to how far you go with a torque wrench.

 

If you haven't got a torque wrench look at the torque specs anyway to give you an idea of how tight things need to be but the size and material of the meat you are screwing into usually give you a good idea.

 

 

 

 

Edited 12 May, 2017 by SuperbTWM

[towtug]

Do you need a wind back tool ? I've always eased pistons back using combination of BIG screwdrivers/pinch bars - are you saying this won't work on the skoda ?

[SuperbTWM]

On 06/09/2017 at 08:04, towtug said:

Do you need a wind back tool ? I've always eased pistons back using combination of BIG screwdrivers/pinch bars - are you saying this won't work on the skoda ?

 

The rear pistons screw into the caliper so unless you are using your big screwdrivers/pinch bars to screw the piston back in, you will need a wind back tool.

 

 

[Clive]

Just for future reference, is it a left-handed or right-handed wind back tool ?

[175GDY]

Due to lack of space under my Yeti, I dismantled the 14mm XZN socket and used a long 14mm Gearwrench tool. No fuzz at all, and you can do all the work without staying under your car.
 

[SuperbTWM]

On 09/09/2017 at 09:08, Clive said:

Just for future reference, is it a left-handed or right-handed wind back tool ?

 

Right handed